What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[WILDHOBO]

Some done yesterday some done today. Wired my winch back up and reinstalled my factor 55 flat link then reinstalled my Auxbeam lights on my new to me bumper. Today I finished fitting my motobilt highline fenders, now they are ready for powdercoat that I'll do sat while installing the bobbed bed.

That thing is psycho cool. You’re building a beautiful jeep.

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[WILDHOBO]

After reading all of this, nothing this exciting. But I’m super happy. The vertical axis of the passenger side mirror hasn’t worked for at least a year. Replaced the driver door wiring harness. Got a new one from Benny @AllMoparParts.com. It is NOT easy to get that harness out. Initially you’re feeling confident. Until you find out that not only are their two connectors behind the inner panel inside the door, but the wire is routed behind the inner side of the outer door handle. Sandwiched between the plastic piece and the inside of the door skin. So you need to disconnect the glass, remove the female door latch in the door, remove the lock cylinder, remove the outer door handle, and only then, can you replace the wire on the tailgate, in my case. Then it took four times to figure out the reassembly steps to make everything go together correctly. The great news is that everything works, including my previously broken passenger mirror.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

What size tires do you have here? Specs in general on the build?

Slowly going down a path I have been avoiding, lol...

Just jump. New shocks will make the landing so much more comfy.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

@WILDHOBO That tear down looks intense!! I haven’t actually seen the inside of a Jeep door before so that’s cool. I’d be plastering with sound deadener, even though it probably wouldn’t do much good. I’d do it just because it was in pieces and it’s accessible.

 

[WILDHOBO]

@WILDHOBO That tear down looks intense!! I haven’t actually seen the inside of a Jeep door before so that’s cool. I’d be plastering with sound deadener, even though it probably wouldn’t do much good. I’d do it just because it was in pieces and it’s accessible.

The door did get a pretty decent detail since I was in there. Now that I’ve done it, I know how. If you ever need to, just send me a message and we’ll do a video call. You’d do it in an hour, knowing all the steps. Like it never happened.

 

[Shibbyjeep]

That thing is psycho cool. You’re building a beautiful jeep.

Thank you sir. Big transformation coming this weekend

 

[WILDHOBO]

Update on the mopar quick disconnect tube door clearance issue. The clearance issue doesn’t exist on the fronts. Only rears. And I definitely items think I can clearance them. And a different tube door might work fine.

 

[ChrisNLA]

You’d love his build. Good friend. So well thought out, and so unstoppable.

Appears to be approximately how I would approach it - it caught my eye.

 

[Pismo61]

I thought they had alleviated some of this with a new film they started applying under the hinges. I forget what year that was.

Either way - that makes sense. One less barrier to stop corrosion.

Zink gaskets.

 

[Kbracken]

Update on the mopar quick disconnect tube door clearance issue. The clearance issue doesn’t exist on the fronts. Only rears. And I definitely items think I can clearance them. And a different tube door might work fine.

Good to know, thanks for the update, now these are back on my list of upcoming mods in the future.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Good to know, thanks for the update, now these are back on my list of upcoming mods in the future.

the clearancing of my rears would mean a bit of cutting and welding, but I don’t think it’d be horribly difficult. They just need an approximate 1/4” deep notch out of the tube where the door check bracket is. Then weld some plate into the notch and clean it up. Totally doable. If you can weld better than me that is.

 

[WILDHOBO]

the clearancing of my rears would mean a bit of cutting and welding, but I don’t think it’d be horribly difficult. They just need an approximate 1/4” deep notch out of the tube where the door check bracket is. Then weld some plate into the notch and clean it up. Totally doable. If you can weld better than me that is.

Or screw it. The tubes are on now. I loosed two whole bolts a half a turn, rotated the brackets 100 degrees, and tightened them. Took me 9 seconds. Not required when going doorless. And not required with the soft doors. And only the rears.

 

[Kbracken]

Or screw it. The tubes are on now. I loosed two whole bolts a half a turn, rotated the brackets 100 degrees, and tightened them. Took me 9 seconds. Not required when going doorless. And not required with the soft doors. And only the rears.

Yeah if it's only twisting two of them partially, then it wouldn't be too bad rather than all that cutting and welding on the tube doors.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yeah if it's only twisting two of them partially, then it wouldn't be too bad rather than all that cutting and welding on the tube doors.

And then refinishing them. If I had to remove the brackets, I guess that’s annoy me a little. But it might also only be certain tube doors. Mine are pretty rare as they’re the ones from Warn. That product was a covid casualty and hasn’t returned. I got mine third hand from a forum member. Since it’s so close to not being a problem, I’m guessing different tube doors might not have the issue anyway. But I can do measurements if that helps you.

 

[Kbracken]

And then refinishing them. If I had to remove the brackets, I guess that’s annoy me a little. But it might also only be certain tube doors. Mine are pretty rare as they’re the ones from Warn. That product was a covid casualty and hasn’t returned. I got mine third hand from a forum member. Since it’s so close to not being a problem, I’m guessing different tube doors might not have the issue anyway. But I can do measurements if that helps you.

I appreciate the offer, but you don't have to go through all that hassle on my account, I think I'll just give them a try and adjust accordingly if needed.

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