What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[AV8tor]

I took what someone much more knowledgeable about electrical than me to heart said (thanks again @capercrew02) and installed a dedicated 12v port behind the rear driver's side seat for my fridge, to complement my recent inverter installation.

I drilled in to and hard mounted it on the removable panel back there, so I could easily go back to stock if need be. It's a screw-in port, so no worries about the plug shaking loose on rough roads.

No interference at all with the function or movement of the seat, and there is clearance between it and the inverter as well.

Looks good! I had a question about my wiring setup- I ran 10 gauge to one of those marine 12volt plug setups in the back. I thought I read somewhere that 10 gauge is pretty much limited to 30amps before it heats up too much... so does that mean a breaker bigger than that would be useless? Also, 30 amps x 13.5 volts (battery system) = 405 watts, so I shouldn’t get an inverter than handles more than that, and I shouldn’t use anything that draws more... Do I have all that right? THANKS!

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[Alabama Mud Machine]

Got my Fab Fours Stubby and Warn 9.5XP installed this afternoon...

 

[TheHops]

Looks good! I had a question about my wiring setup- I ran 10 gauge to one of those marine 12volt plug setups in the back. I thought I read somewhere that 10 gauge is pretty much limited to 30amps before it heats up too much... so does that mean a breaker bigger than that would be useless? Also, 30 amps x 13.5 volts (battery system) = 405 watts, so I shouldn’t get an inverter than handles more than that, and I shouldn’t use anything that draws more... Do I have all that right? THANKS!

Thanks!

I'll preface this by saying that I am not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to wiring. I basically research projects as I complete them, and make sure that I'm doing them as safely and efficiently as possible. Also, feel free to PM me if you'd rather.

Having said that, let me start off by answering your question with a question: What are you running off of that 12v outlet that is pulling 30 amps?

Though I don't know the exact number, I would say 30 amps is a good guess for 10 gauge. I personally would have wired that with 8 gauge. My fridge only draws around 1.5a, so the 2ft of 10 gauge that I used (piggybacked off of the 20ft of 8 gauge to my inverter) is kind of overkill. Also, I believe you're calculating the wattage wrong (someone please correct me if I'm the one that is wrong). Though the battery doesn't always sit at 12v (it would be very dead if it did actually read 12v), it is still a 12v system, so you use 12 for voltage in your calculations. So if you're maxing that 12v outlet out at 30a, you'd be looking at 360 watts (12v x 30a = 360w). That should be your worst-case, if you stick with the 10 gauge. If you decide to rerun it as 8 gauge, you should be good in to the low-mid 40a range.

To answer the parts of your question that I have a firmer grasp on:

-If you really do plan on drawing 30a off of that 12v, you'd want a slightly higher amperage fuse or breaker. A 35a fuse/breaker would be the sweet spot...not so high that your system gets fried, and not so low that an actual 30a draw would trip it. If you're slightly under a 30a draw, a 30a fuse would be perfect.

-For the inverter, you should not go over the maximum safe wattage. Taking the 360 watt maximum in to consideration (before fuses trip and wires heat up), I wouldn't go much over a 300 watt inverter.

I'm obviously biased here since it's what I ultimately did, but if I were you I'd run separate wires specifically for an inverter, instead of plugging your inverter in to your dc outlet. That way, you can keep your 12v and your 120v separate.

 

[TheHops]

Installed my 67 Designs phone mount... This thing is SUPER strong and rigid!

They didn’t include the 2 extra screws for heavy off-roading support, but it’s REALLY strong as-is, with the main screw, and the 3M adhesive tape. Also, you have to cut one side of your tray mat off that sits in your dash. Not a big deal, makes for a clean install.

I dig it! Is that the "small" arm that's pictured?

I've been wanting to pick up their full rail system, and eventually will, but I have other mod priorities before I drop close to $200 on this. My plan is to mount the phone where you did, with my GoPro in the middle, and my Garmin inReach on the far arm.

 

[sass JT]

Is the $200 rebate a recurring thing or is it due to slow economic times?

Here’s what I know. The last time they have done such a big rebate was when they first introduced the sunrider a few years ago , since then it has had $50-100 rebates. With the discount/free shipping through Northridge4x4, I ordered mine and got it in on Wednesday... since then I’ve opened each day with the nice sunshine we have had in Colorado with a big smile on my face.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Got my Fab Fours Stubby and Warn 9.5XP installed this afternoon...

Jeep's looking awesome man. I have been in touch with Fab Four about maybe custom building me something full width for mine with some custom point light mounts. They are only a 40 minute ride from me. Greg the owners a cool dude. They custom made a couple buddies of mines bumpers on their rigs. Not cheap by no means but they aren't cheap for a reason.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I dig it! Is that the "small" arm that's pictured?

I've been wanting to pick up their full rail system, and eventually will, but I have other mod priorities before I drop close to $200 on this. My plan is to mount the phone where you did, with my GoPro in the middle, and my Garmin inReach on the far arm.

Thanks! Go for if man. Only had it one day, but I REALLY like it. Not sure which arm length that is. I just ordered the JT Gladiator Polished Universal mount.

 

[TheHops]

Got a HAM radio mount installed by - Topsy Products FMAB-JL/CB - but I had to drill it out to 5/8" for the Diamond C213SMA Mount with PL-259 and 13.5' of coax. Using a Diamond NR770HAB antenna. This will be for a Yaesu FTM-400.

Easy to get through the firewall - I think where a clutch cable would go - I drilled out the hard plastic hole cover with an 11/32" bit which allowed the pre-terminated end of the Diamond C213SMA to fit right in - this has been the most easy firewall pass through ever!

Firewall pass thru for2M/70cm Antenna



Inside view firewall pass thru for 2M/70cm Antenna



All dressed up with 1/4" split loom



2M/70cm Antenna mount



Diamond 2M/70cm Antenna for HAM Radio

​

Ended up running the cable under the driver side carpet under the front seat and under the back over to the passenger front driver seat area - I plan on mounting the radio under the front passenger seat near the AUX power wires up font on the passenger side. Next I need to figure out some sort of a radio mount under the seat or seat bolt, plan on mounting a Yaesu FTM-400 head overhead on a JCR Molle Panel Antenna tested out good on 2M and 70cm with SWR of around 1.25 Lots more install photos in the gallery.

Looks great! I bookmarked it for future reference! I've run multiple CBs in previous rigs, but want to go HAM this time. Unfortunately I'm completely new to it, and am not licensed. I'll be referring back to this for information for my own eventual install, I'm sure.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Jeep's looking awesome man. I have been in touch with Fab Four about maybe custom building me something full width for mine with some custom point light mounts. They are only a 40 minute ride from me. Greg the owners a cool dude. They custom made a couple buddies of mines bumpers on their rigs. Not cheap by no means but they aren't cheap for a reason.

Thanks! I love Fab Fours... Would love to have one on the front of my 2007 6.7 Cummins, too, but they’re expensive as holy hell for the ‘06-‘09 Dodge 2500. Put one on my dad’s 2008 Cummins about 8 years ago, and he loves it.

I love this bumper and the brushguard design, but my only gripe is the width... Wish it was about 5-6” wider per side as a “mid-width” design. Maybe you can talk Greg into making one like it. Tell him he can send me one, and I’ll swap them out and send him back this one.

 

[Chinman]

Here’s what I know. The last time they have done such a big rebate was when they first introduced the sunrider a few years ago , since then it has had $50-100 rebates. With the discount/free shipping through Northridge4x4, I ordered mine and got it in on Wednesday... since then I’ve opened each day with the nice sunshine we have had in Colorado with a big smile on my face.

Ordered!!!

 

[LostWoods]

Looks good! I had a question about my wiring setup- I ran 10 gauge to one of those marine 12volt plug setups in the back. I thought I read somewhere that 10 gauge is pretty much limited to 30amps before it heats up too much... so does that mean a breaker bigger than that would be useless? Also, 30 amps x 13.5 volts (battery system) = 405 watts, so I shouldn’t get an inverter than handles more than that, and I shouldn’t use anything that draws more... Do I have all that right? THANKS!

Thanks!

I'll preface this by saying that I am not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to wiring. I basically research projects as I complete them, and make sure that I'm doing them as safely and efficiently as possible. Also, feel free to PM me if you'd rather.

Having said that, let me start off by answering your question with a question: What are you running off of that 12v outlet that is pulling 30 amps?

Though I don't know the exact number, I would say 30 amps is a good guess for 10 gauge. I personally would have wired that with 8 gauge. My fridge only draws around 1.5a, so the 2ft of 10 gauge that I used (piggybacked off of the 20ft of 8 gauge to my inverter) is kind of overkill. Also, I believe you're calculating the wattage wrong (someone please correct me if I'm the one that is wrong). Though the battery doesn't always sit at 12v (it would be very dead if it did actually read 12v), it is still a 12v system, so you use 12 for voltage in your calculations. So if you're maxing that 12v outlet out at 30a, you'd be looking at 360 watts (12v x 30a = 360w). That should be your worst-case, if you stick with the 10 gauge. If you decide to rerun it as 8 gauge, you should be good in to the low-mid 40a range.

To answer the parts of your question that I have a firmer grasp on:

-If you really do plan on drawing 30a off of that 12v, you'd want a slightly higher amperage fuse or breaker. A 35a fuse/breaker would be the sweet spot...not so high that your system gets fried, and not so low that an actual 30a draw would trip it. If you're slightly under a 30a draw, a 30a fuse would be perfect.

-For the inverter, you should not go over the maximum safe wattage. Taking the 360 watt maximum in to consideration (before fuses trip and wires heat up), I wouldn't go much over a 300 watt inverter.

I'm obviously biased here since it's what I ultimately did, but if I were you I'd run separate wires specifically for an inverter, instead of plugging your inverter in to your dc outlet. That way, you can keep your 12v and your 120v separate.

I am something of an expert (wrenched professionally for years doing auto electrical and computer diagnostics) and this advice is spot on.

Blue Sea Systems has what I'd consider a bible of cheat sheets for amperage right here. IMO the safest way to quickly calculate on a daily driver is determine what your load is in watts (as it's the one thing that's constant), divide by 12v, and that is the amperage you want to target. The chart is for boats and therefore on the conservative side as a whole so by going from that and using 12v, it gives a nice little bit of headroom. As you can see from that chart, 30A@12v is perfectly fine on a 10AWG wire at that distance unless you're running something truly power sensitive where you'd want 8AWG.

Also keep in mind that a 400W inverter will either draw more than 400W (if rated 400W output) or will output less than 400W (if rated 400W max draw). Work from the spec wattage and use that for your calculation but I always recommend going big on inverters and just doing 1000W or so on a 2AWG cable.

IMO the best strategy is to run more power on a single conductor then distribute at the end point. It's less complicated, easier to seal ingress points, and it's more efficient than running a gauge up on every circuit. It's also a good idea to run fat early to your distribution points in case you decide to upgrade later. If your fuse block or PDC is rated for 100A, max out your input so that you're free to work at the limits of your equipment later on.

 

[Lynn_F]

Wife doesn’t know the reason I got her this is so she doesn’t say anything about all the Jeep parts showing up on our porch lol
550hp AWD 0-60 3.2

W


Westin hdx
I wanted all squared parts for the build and didn’t want any round tubes to stay with the jeeps flat body panels and lines. Another guy on here asked the same about the steps and just got his installed yesterday. He really likes them to but the install is a pain to figure out but solid.

Thanks for comments about the truck. I only had it 2 months and feel like I’ve rebuilt it already. Still have more parts coming.
Here’s some pics of most of it minus the exhaust. Didn’t take any pics yet.

Is that the groundshaker box? Can u give some details on your speaker setup?

 

[LiftedLife]

Is that the groundshaker box? Can u give some details on your speaker setup?

Yes it is ground shaker box. Guys we’re awesome to deal with. Great quality, fit perfectly around everything.
I changed knee panels with pioneer 4” coax
And dash with kicker 3” coax as they fit great.
Up top I installed 4” and 3” kicker also. All miss and tweet are coax.
Install 1000w mini pioneer amp behind back seat with 600rms mono channel for two 10” pioneer svc subs.
Wire signal to amp from knee panel speaker on passenger side.
It sounds extremely well. Miss and bass with neither over powering the other.
Little bit of custom work to install all mids but nothing crazy.
Also installed bass knob by the shifter to control subs.

 

[LiftedLife]

Yes it is ground shaker box. Guys we’re awesome to deal with. Great quality, fit perfectly around everything.
I changed knee panels with pioneer 4” coax
And dash with kicker 3” coax as they fit great.
Up top I installed 4” and 3” kicker also. All miss and tweet are coax.
Install 1000w mini pioneer amp behind back seat with 600rms mono channel for two 10” pioneer svc subs.
Wire signal to amp from knee panel speaker on passenger side.
It sounds extremely well. Miss and bass with neither over powering the other.
Little bit of custom work to install all mids but nothing crazy.
Also installed bass knob by the shifter to control subs.

MIDS****

 

[Climbhigh]

So far, just added Jtopsusa mesh top, and the Rigid cube lights I took off my JKUR. The switch panel makes light add-ons a breeze. Starting to look at 35's and a stubby front bumper.

So the blue jtop matches the hydro blue pretty well it seems...good to know. I was leaning towards black, but not sure now.[/QUOTE]

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