Tire Weight & Performance

[d k]

I'm noticing that you are comparing weights of different size tires?
If you go from 17 to 20, then your rim is gonna weigh a much more than the factory rim.

How much did your wheel/tire combo go up in wight per corner?

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[Alabama Mud Machine]

I'm noticing that you are comparing weights of different size tires?
If you go from 17 to 20, then your rim is gonna weigh a much more than the factory rim.

How much did your wheel/tire combo go up in wight per corner?

Not really... Stock Rubicon 17x7.5" wheels weigh around 22 lbs. each. My 20x10 wheels weigh 33 lbs. each. Not as much difference as one would think...

So I went up 31 lbs per corner (11 wheel, 20 tire), and with the 4.10 gears, I really didn't notice much of a difference with the iDrive and the Tazer. Honestly, with the iDrive set the way I have it, it feels like it has MORE power than a stock JTR. It doesn't, because neither add power, it just increased the low-end performance (acceleration) by taking all the slack out of the gas pedal.

 

[d k]

I believe that..

I"m just wondering how much weight you would gain keeping the stock rims?
I posted a thread somewhere looking for the lightest tires. I think the KO2's came in the lightest.

I myself am going with 35x10.5 in the beginning and later to 37's with 4.88s

Not really... Stock Rubicon 17x7.5" wheels weigh around 22 lbs. each. My 20x10 wheels weigh 33 lbs. each. Not as much difference as one would think...

So I went up 31 lbs per corner (11 wheel, 20 tire), and with the 4.10 gears, I really didn't notice much of a difference with the iDrive and the Tazer. Honestly, with the iDrive set the way I have it, it feels like it has MORE power than a stock JTR. It doesn't, because neither add power, it just increased the low-end performance (acceleration) by taking all the slack out of the gas pedal.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I believe that..

I"m just wondering how much weight you would gain keeping the stock rims?
I posted a thread somewhere looking for the lightest tires. I think the KO2's came in the lightest.

I myself am going with 35x10.5 in the beginning and later to 37's with 4.88s

Basically, you would only save about 11 lbs. going with stock wheels over the 20x10 wheels I went with, if you went with the same size tires. You won't even notice that.

 

[Jonj513]

Thanks man! Just tryin to sort through the options

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Thanks man! Just tryin to sort through the options

After almost 5,000 miles with the setup, I highly recommend the Tazer JL Mini & iDrive combo.

 

[T-Rock]

After almost 5,000 miles with the setup, I highly recommend the Tazer JL Mini & iDrive combo.

Picking up on this old thread... Is this the iDrive unit you are recommending? EVC IDRIVE THROTTLE CONTROLLER FOR JEEP GLADIATOR 2019 – ON | EVC iDRIVE THROTTLE CONTROL ?

 

[Jaxmax]

I don't think he is around anymore, 3.5 year old thread.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Not really... Stock Rubicon 17x7.5" wheels weigh around 22 lbs. each. My 20x10 wheels weigh 33 lbs. each. Not as much difference as one would think...

So I went up 31 lbs per corner (11 wheel, 20 tire), and with the 4.10 gears, I really didn't notice much of a difference with the iDrive and the Tazer. Honestly, with the iDrive set the way I have it, it feels like it has MORE power than a stock JTR. It doesn't, because neither add power, it just increased the low-end performance (acceleration) by taking all the slack out of the gas pedal.

1lb of rotational mass is equal to 7lbs on the rig.
That 31 lbs is equal to almost 900 on the rig….

 

[ecidiego]

1lb of rotational mass is equal to 7lbs on the rig.
That 31 lbs is equal to almost 900 on the rig….

Yeah that's freaking crazy. No thanks.

If you must have heavy tires you need to pay big bucks for lightweight rims to counter them.

 

[ecidiego]

Picking up on this old thread... Is this the iDrive unit you are recommending? EVC IDRIVE THROTTLE CONTROLLER FOR JEEP GLADIATOR 2019 – ON | EVC iDRIVE THROTTLE CONTROL ?

 

[Zachanadandy]

1lb of rotational mass is equal to 7lbs on the rig.
That 31 lbs is equal to almost 900 on the rig….

Not sure where you came up with your numbers, but they can't be even remotely accurate in the real world. A lifted jeep on 37s drives, rides, handles, and accelerates better than a stock Jeep loaded down with 900lbs period. Of course there's a sprung vs unsprung weight factor there too. Our jlur on 39" kanati mud hogs does not drive like it has an extra 1,000lbs in it. Once you factor in the belly skids, winch, tools, etc it probably weighs 500lbs over stock and that is how it drives, I don't buy the factor of 7 at all.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Not sure where you came up with your numbers, but they can't be even remotely accurate in the real world. A lifted jeep on 37s drives, rides, handles, and accelerates better than a stock Jeep loaded down with 900lbs period. Of course there's a sprung vs unsprung weight factor there too. Our jlur on 39" kanati mud hogs does not drive like it has an extra 1,000lbs in it. Once you factor in the belly skids, winch, tools, etc it probably weighs 500lbs over stock and that is how it drives, I don't buy the factor of 7 at all.

Buy don’t buy ??‍ I don’t care lol the 1:2 as per the below quote or we can argue about it, pretty sure you understand the concept to the point I was trying to make. A jeep on 37’s is not going to accelerate faster than a stock jeep…. Ride/handle sure, I can see where wider tires with taller side walls will ride better and a wider stance will handle better ???
https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration

This may help us both ?

TLDR. For the purposes of acceleration and braking, the effective weight of a spinning wheel is up to twice the actual weight.

The kinetic energy of a spinning wheel on a moving vehicle is up to twice that of the same mass at the same speed without the rotation (e.g., the spare). The ratio is less than 2 - it would be exactly 2 if all of the rotating mass were on the tread - and is the same at all vehicle speeds. This energy must be supplied by the engine to accelerate the vehicle and dissipated by the brakes to slow it.

For example, replacing factory tires with 35s at +25 lbs apiece effectively adds up to 225 lbs, that is, up to 50 lbs on each corner and 25 for the spare. One NFL running back, perhaps an undersized one.

The factor of <2 only applies to acceleration and deceleration. At constant speed only the actual mass that matters.

And this says nothing about the forces on the suspension and steering due to bigger heavier tires.

@Flanders
(Broken Millennial here- hoping this tags Flanders). Thank you for posting this. Applied here for discussion. ???

 

[whiteglad]

I went the other direction. I traded the stock 285-70-17C Mojave tires for 255-80-17E size, still Falken Wildpeak AT3W. 0.3" taller, 2" narrower tread, 10.3 lb each lighter.

 

[Ward]

I went the other direction. I traded the stock 285-70-17C Mojave tires for 255-80-17E size, still Falken Wildpeak AT3W. 0.3" taller, 2" narrower tread, 10.3 lb each lighter.

I'm considering this same tire. How does the E rated tire perform compared to the stock C rated. ride, cornering, acceleration, & MPG cruising?

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