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Is a 3” lift with 37’s going to be too much for stock Overland?

Dainbramaged

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I’m leaning heavily towards replacing my 2.5” Skyjacker leveling lift with a 3” lift and Fox or Falcon shocks, and replacing my 315 Nitto Rigge Grapplers with 37” Nitto Trail Grapplers or Cooper STT’s. Looking to get more clearance for blue and black trails, and get rid of some of the excess bounce that I have with this Skyjacker set up.

Questions
1. Am I asking too much from stock 3.73 gearing? I tow a trailer occasionally, but not more than 4,000 lbs. We get into mountains in PA and WVA, but not like they have in CO.
2. Is a 3” lift going to excessively stress other components besides those replaced by the kit to restore geometry?
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I saw this last night and figured someone would have responded by now. On gearing/tires, there is a chart floating around on here. Looking at it seemed clear to me that even 35s with 3.73s would make me hate life, but some have that set up and are happy but I think 37s would be a bridge too far. I bought a Max Tow and decided based on the chart that I would be happy with 35s, anything more than that and I would regear. As for a 3" lift I doubt it would stress anything anymore than a 2.5".
 

Tall Mike

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Questions
1. Am I asking too much from stock 3.73 gearing? I tow a trailer occasionally, but not more than 4,000 lbs. We get into mountains in PA and WVA, but not like they have in CO.
2. Is a 3” lift going to excessively stress other components besides those replaced by the kit to restore geometry?
IMO

1.no
2. no

For what you are doing with it I think you will be fine.
 

Jeeperjamie

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If you care about gas mileage the 37's on 3.73 gears is going to suck, and your going to lose 7th and 8th gear for the most part. A local guys running 37's with a 2.5" lift on his sport with 3.73 gears and he's barely getting 14mpgs. You can run it but it's going to be a dog on the highway and hills.

For reference I'm in the Piedmontl
/Foothill section of North Carolina so we got moderate rolling hills but nothing major. I get right at 19mpgs on my Max Tow with 4.10 gears and 35's.
 

Silvertruck

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Hey man exciting plans.

I would suggest including gears in your budget with 37’s. Also, at three inches lift, if you wheel it hard expect to eventually need a front driveshaft.

I have found it better over the years to try to address the whole system not just certain parts.

The good thing is you can get the lift done then try the stock gears out for yourself. I think doing that will make your choice self evident.

what I’d caution against is going too short on the tires/lift because you are afraid about gears. You could quickly get hit by buyer’s remorse and to go up again from what would be what you just did would cost more than the gears anyway.

strongly suggest front axle truss too if putting 37’s on the rig.
 

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Dainbramaged

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I appreciate everybody’s advice, sounds like we’ll need to build in the budget to either re-gear or possibly install some Rubicon take-off axels and get lockers while we’re add it. While I don’t put tons of daily miles on her, I can’t go down to 14 mpg over the long haul.

The MetalCloak Game Changer referenced changing the driveshaft as well, so that advice seems consistent and was part of my concern.

Likely if we had known how much we were going to enjoy crawling we’d have started with a Rubicon, but we’re getting there.
 

BrandonG

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I’m completely fine with my sport s , rubicon springs and shocks , 2” daystar lift , black rhino arsenal , ko2 37 , super chips flashcal . I’ve taken it wheeling , long hwy drives etc . Still getting 11-12 L per 100km . Power is fine , not terribly noticeable from the rubicon wheels and tires that were on it . I was fully intending on re gearing shortly after but I’m in no rush at this point if at all . I think it really depends on the rubber you choose . Weight and drag from heavier more aggressive tires would significantly change what I am seeing with my setup . Also ko2 Air down are extremely capable. My 14 jk 2 door 6 spd manual with Mickey 33 Mtz was a absolute dog compared to my new truck . I knew I wasn’t going to be happy with 35 and took the chance with 37 , happy I did

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bastage

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I am on 37's with 4:10's & its no bueno in my opinion. Its just sluggish. I dont enjoy driving it as much. I have 5.13's incoming.

My recommendation for what your trying to do... Hold off on the lift & tires. Even with a re-gear your going to still have the narrow axles & no lockers. Add wheel spacers & lockers later you can make up for it in the most part, but your getting into some serious coin & doing some of the labor twice wasting money..

If your wanting to run blacks then your going to eventually want lockers. Look at what your going to need for that first Work with that goal first & then the rest will fall in place around it.
 

PyrPatriot

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/Foothill section of North Carolina so we got moderate rolling hills but nothing major. I get right at 19mpgs on my Max Tow with 4.10 gears and 35's.
Here in KY I am in similar terrain (been to your hills in NC) and I'm getting 16-17mpgh highway despite best efforts on the pedal (running 35" Falkens, which are quite heavy)
 

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Here’s the hail mary - Trade for a rubicon, dealer add the lift and tires and gears. Get warranty and long term financing in trade for taking a bath on the trade in. Would provide the platform you are looking for with more durability and factory assembled for most part.
 

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Dainbramaged

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Here’s the hail mary - Trade for a rubicon, dealer add the lift and tires and gears. Get warranty and long term financing in trade for taking a bath on the trade in. Would provide the platform you are looking for with more durability and factory assembled for most part.
I appreciate everybody’s advice, sounds like we’ll need to build in the budget to either re-gear or possibly install some Rubicon take-off axels and get lockers while we’re add it. While I don’t put tons of daily miles on her, I can’t go down to 14 mpg over the long haul.

The MetalCloak Game Changer referenced changing the driveshaft as well, so that advice seems consistent and was part of my concern.

Likely if we had known how much we were going to enjoy crawling we’d have started with. Rubicon, but we’re getting there.

I was actually looking this morning at Rubicon’s in the area based on the feedback so far. Sounds like I needed to have started with that platform to get where I want to go.
 

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Here in KY I am in similar terrain (been to your hills in NC) and I'm getting 16-17mpgh highway despite best efforts on the pedal (running 35" Falkens, which are quite heavy)
Could be the tires, not sure. I've only been below 18 MPGs a few times and that was with heavy idling, like say for 45 minutes or more. Right now I'm sitting at 18.4 MPGs average but my hand calculation has me at around 19 after my last fill up. I really haven't paid as much attention to it lately, I have just been enjoying driving it. I'm not that hard on the skinny pedal and I rarely get above 75 mph on the highway.
 

bastage

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I was actually looking this morning at Rubicon’s in the area based on the feedback so far. Sounds like I needed to have started with that platform to get where I want to go.
Thats really not at all the case. Its strictly a cost factor. Rubicon is not as good as you can build. You can spend a small fortune & get some of the extras included as said above with warranty, but the Rubicon Axles are weaker then you can build yours. And aftermarket axles would be WAY stronger then either could be feasibly built for.

Thing about Rubicon is that its a higher starting point, so if its what your end goal is then its the better way of doing it. But if you are wanting bigger/stronger then its a waste of money when your changing all the Rubicon parts out for aftermarket anyway.
 

PyrPatriot

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Could be the tires, not sure. I've only been below 18 MPGs a few times and that was with heavy idling, like say for 45 minutes or more. Right now I'm sitting at 18.4 MPGs average but my hand calculation has me at around 19 after my last fill up. I really haven't paid as much attention to it lately, I have just been enjoying driving it. I'm not that hard on the skinny pedal and I rarely get above 75 mph on the highway.
Same conditions as my driving....hmmmm
 

Jeeperjamie

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Same conditions as my driving....hmmmm
As you probably already know I'm running 315 70 17 BFG KO2S and they weigh 62.4lbs a tire. Not sure what the Falkens weigh but I would be willing to bet not a mpg heavier. What all have you removed from yours, I found that after I removed the pieces that lead up to the fenders from the bumper my MPGs went down some. When I added winch and full width bumper it went back up, which didn't make sense to me but I think it help the air flow around the jeep better. Mine as it sits right now.

Jeep Gladiator Is a 3” lift with 37’s going to be too much for stock Overland? PXL_20200913_173326147
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