Weight Savings: EcoDiesel

[Mac Attack]

Want to use this thread to identify weight savings for the EcoDiesel platforms primarily for those of us that are/will be approaching payload capacity.

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[Mac Attack]

Want to use this thread to identify weight savings for the EcoDiesel platforms primarily for those of us that are/will be approaching payload capacity.

First: my rig is for overlanding/long trips via unimproved roads/trails. Good gas mileage, easy repairs/maintenance, comfort are probably my main criteria.

Understand there are compromises to be made for switching from steel made products to lighter products. Generally, aluminum products will provide weight savings compared to steel. But, steel products are generally stronger and/or provide the ability to bend-back into shape. So, would like to use this thread to identify ways folks have saved weight on their rigs: whether by taking unnecessary items off your rig; replacing items with a weight savings; purchasing one item over another in order to save weight; etc..

I have identified several items that I will be targeting for weight savings: aluminum bumper, both front and rear; aluminum side steps/rocker guards; forged aluminum wheels; aluminum/composite camper/trailer; lithium batteries; better, but lighter suspensions/components. All intended to save weight while increasing the overall capabilities of my rig: camper heating/cooling/electrical (solar); sleeping accommodations; increased water/fuel capacities; etc.

One example of a discussion I would like to have is regarding forged aluminum wheels. Aluminum being lighter than steel is good...but, steel wheels generally can be bent back into shape, if need be...vice cast aluminum wheels that can not be bent back into shape. Forged aluminum wheels are generally stronger and lighter than steel or cast aluminum wheels. And, from my research, forged aluminum wheels can be/should be able to be bent back into shape. However, I have not found any "real world" examples of this. AND, forged aluminum wheels are much more expensive than and steel or cast aluminum wheels..again, from my research.

 

[Mac Attack]

I also want to add that part of my "job" is strategic foresight; how changes in society, technology, economy, environment and the political environment can change our world. Truly believe that with increasing occurances of overloaded rigs...traffic accidents will increase. Just a matter of time before localities, states, federal government start cracking down on vehicles that exceed GVWR, for the "public good."

 

[Jaxmax]

I'm not sure the aluminum wheels are lighter, there was a post here about it and steel was the same or slightly lighter, but can't find post, there are guys buying spare rims to have a full set. I guess if someone is selling a full set of five rims they could weigh the spare and another aluminum rim and see the difference......jack

 

[Mac]

First: my rig is for overlanding/long trips via unimproved roads/trails. Good gas mileage, easy repairs/maintenance, comfort are probably my main criteria.

Understand there are compromises to be made for switching from steel made products to lighter products. Generally, aluminum products will provide weight savings compared to steel. But, steel products are generally stronger and/or provide the ability to bend-back into shape. So, would like to use this thread to identify ways folks have saved weight on their rigs: whether by taking unnecessary items off your rig; replacing items with a weight savings; purchasing one item over another in order to save weight; etc..

I have identified several items that I will be targeting for weight savings: aluminum bumper, both front and rear; aluminum side steps/rocker guards; forged aluminum wheels; aluminum/composite camper/trailer; lithium batteries; better, but lighter suspensions/components. All intended to save weight while increasing the overall capabilities of my rig: camper heating/cooling/electrical (solar); sleeping accommodations; increased water/fuel capacities; etc.

One example of a discussion I would like to have is regarding forged aluminum wheels. Aluminum being lighter than steel is good...but, steel wheels generally can be bent back into shape, if need be...vice cast aluminum wheels that can not be bent back into shape. Forged aluminum wheels are generally stronger and lighter than steel or cast aluminum wheels. And, from my research, forged aluminum wheels can be/should be able to be bent back into shape. However, I have not found any "real world" examples of this. AND, forged aluminum wheels are much more expensive than and steel or cast aluminum wheels..again, from my research.

IMO "easy repairs and maintenance" are not attributes of the diesel engine, if I was going to be on long trips on unimproved roads, I am assuming remote areas, I would want the gas engine, so much simpler and not easily disabled by a faulty sensor or emissions failure.

 

[Saltymedic]

Aluminum bumpers would be first on my list if you need to switch from plastic.

Personally, I'm searching for a low winch mount to keep as much air flowing to the radiator as possible.

 

[Overland-2021]

I too am a bit disappointed at the low cargo capacity (mine is 1208lbs).
Wanted to put a box on the back to protect camping gear. Nixed that idea as thats nearly 200lbs of gear I can bring. Since its just my wife and I - I'm eyeing the back seats. Figure they weigh more than 50lbs and what ever I load there will be center weight.

Aluminum alloy wheels are lighter but give up durability. I remember running into a stone wall when I was young and dangerous - bent the hell out of the steel rim but I took a sledge hammer to it and was ok. Would never risk my family on an aluminum rim that could crack apart from a big pothole.

 

[Overland-2021]

I too am a bit disappointed at the low cargo capacity (mine is 1208lbs).
Wanted to put a box on the back to protect camping gear. Nixed that idea as thats nearly 200lbs of gear I can bring. Since its just my wife and I - I'm eyeing the back seats. Figure they weigh more than 50lbs and what ever I load there will be center weight.

Aluminum alloy wheels are lighter but give up durability. I remember running into a stone wall when I was young and dangerous - bent the hell out of the steel rim but I took a sledge hammer to it and was ok. Would never risk my family on an aluminum rim that could crack apart from a big pothole.

 

[LostWoods]

Just a matter of time before localities, states, federal government start cracking down on vehicles that exceed GVWR, for the "public good."

Not to derail your thread but I would personally love this so manufacturers would give us real ratings and real payload instead of padding the shit out of it. I'm simultaneously annoyed by all the drivers who dump into full steel armor, a rack, RTT, and massive tires then roll around like it's perfectly fine being 1k over GVWR as I am that 4 normal adult men in a Tacoma can eat up 2/3 of the truck's payload.

 

[Jaxmax]

There was s post from a guy making his own own rear seat delete, put plywood in and did a fantastic job, and shares his drawings, net loss of weight taking seats out and plywood floor in was 77lbs.
Search rear seat delete.

 

[Overland-2021]

Yes - I see that Eddie "smlobx" did a nice rear seat replacement... Thanks.

 

[guarnibl]

I'm not advocating being over the GVWR but there's many well published folks out there doing it without issue. 1k over is a different story, but if I'm a couple hundred pounds over, I'm not too concerned. My avail payload is like ~945. Very low.

I would never do anything like a rear seat delete, as it's my daily driver and I carry people all the time in the back. Instead, I am trying to be smart about the weight I'm adding/carrying at any given time for any given activity. The heaviest it will be is for long distance trips that involve camping -- but I'm pretty sure I can still keep it close.

I will likely be adding skids -- but will use aluminum (probably will add 10-20 pounds over stock). I'm swapping the rock sliders for steps (probably biggest violator) -- my wife needs the steps. Otherwise, running stock wheels with spacers and 37's that only weight a few pounds more than the factory tires. No plans to add bumpers or anything like that. RTT weighs 130 pounds. Rack weighs 65 lbs. All of my camping gear is ~100 pounds total. Wife and I weight about 300 pounds. So all in all... I should be well under.

 

[jeepin48]

The rock sliders are near 100lbs. If you dont really need them they are an easy 100lb dump of weight to remove. I like the look but hate the weight. I am looking into replacing them with some aluminum sheets that look similar but dont weight anything like that.

 

[Jaxmax]

I took off My Mojave / Rubicon sliders off and put on Rough Country contoured steps for wife and grand kids to climb in better, and was surprised in how much lighter the RC steps were, didn’t weigh them but the steps I could one hand pretty well the factory sliders were two handers.....Jack

 

[Mac Attack]

I took off My Mojave / Rubicon sliders off and put on Rough Country contoured steps for wife and grand kids to climb in better, and was surprised in how much lighter the RC steps were, didn’t weigh them but the steps I could one hand pretty well the factory sliders were two handers.....Jack

Great way to save weight...especially if the factory sliders provided a capability you didn't need while the aftermarket provided a capability you did need. One of my pet peeves with aftermarket providers and original manufactorers is that many do not list the weight of their products. And yet, I believe this is very important...especially for Jeep diesel owners.

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