What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[glassjawkid32]

They poke a bit, but I do not run a tonneau cover.

I wanted easy access to them if I have a bunch of camping crap in my bed. I like the racks, but I take my top off too much. I may eventually get a half rack and roof top tent.
I used a rubber washer and metal one to keep them from rattling when I drive. It works for me.

Do you have enough room to mount them lower if you needed too? I've been looking for a similar solution but it looks like they wouldn't clear my tonneau.

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[NateKY]

Shipment #1 this week. 13” stubby antenna, cup holder inserts, Daystar 3/4” rear spacer, and TeraFlex 1 1/2” leveling spacers. Last pic isn’t the best but I ran out of daylight. 2 more shipments this week coming in the mail.

 

[IamAlan]

I addressed this already later in the thread. You're likely enjoying brighter lights from your driver seat at the cost of terrible light throw and blinding oncoming traffic. Post your headlight cutoffs and compare them with the @Oracle Designs cutoff or OEM Mopar cutoff

Here's a Tacoma forum write-up

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/

This has been discussed a lot. Properly adjusted, you will not blind oncoming traffic. The beam pattern does not measure up to the $800 Oracle kit but at under $100, its a vast improvement over the factory halogens.

 

[Gren71]

This has been discussed a lot. Properly adjusted, you will not blind oncoming traffic. The beam pattern does not measure up to the $800 Oracle kit but at under $100, its a vast improvement over the factory halogens.

Careful, youll get the light nerds mad!

 

[atxatxatx]

Uninstalled the JKS Quicker disconnects so I could install Apex
AutoLYNX disconnects. After 2 desert seasons having to struggle reconnecting (at least half of all reconnects involved using the hammer), I bought these sweet beauties. They arrived within a week of ordering. Installed this morning.
I disconnected by turning the switch on each side and drove a few miles around my neighborhood then reconnected by turning the switches back and pushing one side down until it locked. Normal driving will lock the other side into place. Looking forward to our next offroad trip to the desert.
T

Wow that's an interesting product, I haven't seen that before ?

 

[cmak0]

Unfortunately I had to learn this lesson again. Don’t buy cheap parts. I made exception for skyjacker sway bar links because….how does someone screw that up?

By using cheap bolts and bushings that shrink. Ugh. Didn’t even last 6mos.

Swallped out MC links.

Good luck, I’ve replaced my MC links three times on my JK because the nut comes lose on the sway bar end and strips the threads. Not sure what brand I’ll use on my JT once I get it

 

[HikerBob]

Me too! Really like the look and functionality of these. Went on pretty easy, too.

Do they cover the gap below the door and the frame? Are they textured black or bed liner coated? What’s better?

 

[TexasTJ]

I too am in the market for new front sway bar links. Was using the e-disconnect and it still pulled the bolt straight through the nut.

 

[DocMike]

You'd need to drill the boards in a different spot. I just used the factory holes.
But if you look here, it could possibly work.

Do you have enough room to mount them lower if you needed too? I've been looking for a similar solution but it looks like they wouldn't clear my tonneau.

 

[HooliganActual]

I too am in the market for new front sway bar links. Was using the e-disconnect and it still pulled the bolt straight through the nut.

Are you lifted? I'm certainly no expert here but on my JKU Rubicon I had the same problem. Installed an AEV 2.5" lift and was constantly popping the passenger side even when disconnected. The "trick" on the JK's was to pull the rear disconnects and install them up front and then buy replacements for the rear.

That said, if you are lifted, you're disconnect links may not actually be long enough. The sway bar arm connected to the link should be parallel to the ground when not flexed.

 

[Chestnut]

Mounted some flaps, mainly to help keep snow, salt, and ice off the side. Mounting was prety easy except for the fronts. The factory notch didn't fit around the overland fender very well. I didn't want to cut out the running board.

Quick trip to the band saw made the notch a bit bigger and made install a lot easier.

For being a square there are quite a few odd subtle curves that mess with my brain.

 

[Oracle Designs]

@Rares I would have to agree with @balucipher. While LED bulbs are a general cost effective solution, aftermarket headlights do provide more of a cut-off line and can be more appealing for both yourself and oncoming traffic. Take a look at the image below:

A complete headlight replacement will have a better light beam than a standard LED bulb upgrade. We designed our unit to have optimum light distribution and beam angles. If you look at the OEM Jeep LEDs, and compair them to our Oculus headlight, you can see light being projected in a lot of different directions. But more importantly, it is going above the cut-off line.

A cut-off line is a beam patterning tool for road illumination and for oncoming protection of excessive glare. When looking at the ORACLE Oculus light beam pattern, you can see a clear beam line. There is a line that is elevated and one that is lowered. The elevated light is supposed to be for the driver and the lowered light is meant for oncoming traffic. If there is light going above the elevated line, this is referred as glare.

The light responsible for glare is not great for oncoming traffic. You can probably think of some instances on the road where you are driving and a person looks like they are driving with brights. In reality, it's only a bulb upgrade. It is important to remember that halogen units were designed specifically for halogen bulbs and not for LED bulbs. If you replace the the halogen lights with the a standard LED bulbs, you would have the a more intense light output with extreme glare.

Light focus is very important for not only driver safety but others on the road who can potentially have their vision obstructed by glare. This is especially significant on lifted vehicles, where the light source is raised and in a position that would interfere with another driver's field of vision. Our Oculus headlights feature a very sharp cut-off line and focus light with precision specifically to avoid such issues (as seen in the image above). With these headlights, you can also adjust the cut-off line so that it fits perfectly for your build.

If you are interested in more info on our headlights, feel free to check them out here. Hope this explanation helps!

-Anthony

 

[raypla]

Got some door sill protectors

Glad I went with these vs black plastic, they really pop in this configuration

21’ JTRD

 

[Rob0ffRoad]

Installed 5' ROAM Adventure Co. awning on the back of my rack. Needed coverage when working out of the tailgate. Pretty cool awning and good internal frame design so you don't have to use stakes for a temporary setup on a hard surface (if no significant wind) tailgating, working in the boatyard, etc...

 

[Sarge502]

Adding Rubi take offs

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