6 Speed Manual Regrets?

[Bbannongmu]

500 miles?? Hey I want your old clutch. Maybe. Might be expensive to ship. Can you show detailed pics of the old clutch.? There is a ton of misinformation around about it. Like whether or not it has two discs for example.

500 miles for gear break on …..I work from home and have several vehicles. I had to take it easy in my Gladiator while I was waiting on the gears break in , no towing, off road, hauling or horse play. - exactly the opposite of what I bought it for. I definitely take a bunch of pics of the stock clutch and post on my YouTube.

Sponsored

 

[redriderjf87]

Overall happy with the 6 speed after the first couple drives. Feels pretty sporty, clutch is a little lighter and the shift throws are shorter than my Colorado. And thankfully the revs drop quicker between gears.

 

[seven30]

500 miles for gear break on …..I work from home and have several vehicles. I had to take it easy in my Gladiator while I was waiting on the gears break in , no towing, off road, hauling or horse play. - exactly the opposite of what I bought it for. I definitely take a bunch of pics of the stock clutch and post on my YouTube.

Speaking of gear break-in. Thoughts on flushing gearbox/xfer and diffs? At 15K I have not done they yet but seems like it might be a good idea. And what goes in the Rubicon/Mojave rear diff???

 

[Hootbro]

Speaking of gear break-in. Thoughts on flushing gearbox/xfer and diffs? At 15K I have not done they yet but seems like it might be a good idea. And what goes in the Rubicon/Mojave rear diff???

I changed mine at 5K and 30K front and rear and quite honestly, the front diff gear oil was still minty and probably was a waste.

As to what goes in them, 75W-85 is the manual call out but most people to include myself use 75W-90 as it is more readily available.

FWIW, Chrysler Tech Authority data calls out 75W-140 if towing and DANA specs the same regardless for any rebuild or new axles they sell aftermarket.

 

[Bbannongmu]

I changed mine at 5K and 30K front and rear and quite honestly, the front diff gear oil was still minty and probably was a waste.

As to what goes in them, 75W-85 is the manual call out but most people to include myself use 75W-90 as it is more readily available.

FWIW, Chrysler Tech Authority data calls out 75W-140 if towing and DANA specs the same regardless for any rebuild or new axles they sell aftermarket.

I believe we used 75W-90 synthetic in the diffs. Probably don’t need to change trans gear oil or xfer oil until much later unless submerged in water or other issue you are worried about. I’m thinking 90k mile service or so.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I changed mine at 5K and 30K front and rear and quite honestly, the front diff gear oil was still minty and probably was a waste.

As to what goes in them, 75W-85 is the manual call out but most people to include myself use 75W-90 as it is more readily available.

FWIW, Chrysler Tech Authority data calls out 75W-140 if towing and DANA specs the same regardless for any rebuild or new axles they sell aftermarket.

That's what I found interesting, and what I'd be leaning on a bit more. The company that makes them isn't so concerned about mpg and other factors as they are life, bearings, etc.
I tend to lean toward the slightly heavier standards - hypoid gears are still among the most, if not the most, stressed gear types out there. A lot of friction, a lot of heat.

 

[DanW]

Speaking of gear break-in. Thoughts on flushing gearbox/xfer and diffs? At 15K I have not done they yet but seems like it might be a good idea. And what goes in the Rubicon/Mojave rear diff???

I changed the diffs, T-case, and transmission fluids all at 15k. The rear diff fluid did look good, but the drain plug's magnet had a full beard of metal shavings. These Advanteks do shed a bit of iron. I went 75w90 in the front and 75w140 in the rear and I will probably change them somewhere between 15k and 30k.

The T-cases can go a long time without changes, because they don't work very hard, but it is easy and ATF+4 is cheap (Wallyworld Supertech or valvoline is about 5 to 6 bucks a quart). Mine came out looking like new, again, with 15k on it.

The transmission fluid, also ATF+4, looked great, too. I put Redline C+ in there because it is a high performance replacement for ATF+4 and I've heard others say it made their transmissions feel smoother. I don't know if it is just in my head (probably is) but it felt very, very slightly smoother, to me.

I just re-geared to 4.56 about 5k miles ago and swapped out the rear break-in 80w90 at 1k miles. The front break-in gear lube is still in there because it just doesn't work very hard. I'll probably swap it out soon, and put Valvoline 75w90 in there for the next 30k.

 

[seven30]

I changed the diffs, T-case, and transmission fluids all at 15k. The rear diff fluid did look good, but the drain plug's magnet had a full beard of metal shavings. These Advanteks do shed a bit of iron. I went 75w90 in the front and 75w140 in the rear and I will probably change them somewhere between 15k and 30k.

The T-cases can go a long time without changes, because they don't work very hard, but it is easy and ATF+4 is cheap (Wallyworld Supertech or valvoline is about 5 to 6 bucks a quart). Mine came out looking like new, again, with 15k on it.

The transmission fluid, also ATF+4, looked great, too. I put Redline C+ in there because it is a high performance replacement for ATF+4 and I've heard others say it made their transmissions feel smoother. I don't know if it is just in my head (probably is) but it felt very, very slightly smoother, to me.

I just re-geared to 4.56 about 5k miles ago and swapped out the rear break-in 80w90 at 1k miles. The front break-in gear lube is still in there because it just doesn't work very hard. I'll probably swap it out soon, and put Valvoline 75w90 in there for the next 30k.

Ok but do the Mojave/Rubicon Rear(front) also need some limited slip additive ??

 

[DanW]

Ok but do the Mojave/Rubicon Rear(front) also need some limited slip additive ??

No. The locking M220 doesn't require it. I think most will have it in there anyway, especially 75w140. I know for sure Mobil 1 does. Not so sure about Valvoline or Supertech. I'm currently running Valvoline because it comes in those nice bags that are easy to fill with.

But it doesn't hurt anything if it is in there.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I changed the diffs, T-case, and transmission fluids all at 15k. The rear diff fluid did look good, but the drain plug's magnet had a full beard of metal shavings. These Advanteks do shed a bit of iron. I went 75w90 in the front and 75w140 in the rear and I will probably change them somewhere between 15k and 30k.

The T-cases can go a long time without changes, because they don't work very hard, but it is easy and ATF+4 is cheap (Wallyworld Supertech or valvoline is about 5 to 6 bucks a quart). Mine came out looking like new, again, with 15k on it.

The transmission fluid, also ATF+4, looked great, too. I put Redline C+ in there because it is a high performance replacement for ATF+4 and I've heard others say it made their transmissions feel smoother. I don't know if it is just in my head (probably is) but it felt very, very slightly smoother, to me.

I just re-geared to 4.56 about 5k miles ago and swapped out the rear break-in 80w90 at 1k miles. The front break-in gear lube is still in there because it just doesn't work very hard. I'll probably swap it out soon, and put Valvoline 75w90 in there for the next 30k.

Makes sense -any/all of it. Hypoid gears will definitely shed some very fine metal as they wear in. That should drop to very little at all after the first change. You can see where the gears mesh the surface is free of any gray and it's more shine - it's burnished, rubbed smooth. Hypoid gears slide over each other more than most other types.

Your ATF choice - it's very possible a different fluid will make it "feel different" on shifts due to the friction modifiers different companies use - once they meet certain specs, the rest is up to them and it's all a proprietary mix.

I assume you take the thing off pavement now and then and work those front differential gears under some load?

 

[DanW]

Makes sense -any/all of it. Hypoid gears will definitely shed some very fine metal as they wear in. That should drop to very little at all after the first change. You can see where the gears mesh the surface is free of any gray and it's more shine - it's burnished, rubbed smooth. Hypoid gears slide over each other more than most other types.

Your ATF choice - it's very possible a different fluid will make it "feel different" on shifts due to the friction modifiers different companies use - once they meet certain specs, the rest is up to them and it's all a proprietary mix.

I assume you take the thing off pavement now and then and work those front differential gears under some load?

Yeah, we just did a trip to VT, NH, and ME and ran quite a number of miles in 4wd, so they got a good bit of break-in then. So I'll swap that fluid out soon and replace it with the 75w90.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Got Jtrspartacus back from Keystone 4x4 with the new Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch. Initial thoughts from the 65 mile trip home are ….WOW! So much more positive engagement from the clutch and much lower pedal travel. I also don’t need to give it any gas to reverse or get started in 1st. I’ll post the 20 degree hill test comparison to my YouTube after I break the new clutch in ….soon. My gut tells me it will walk right up that hill with no throttle applied.

I’ll also post up pics of the stock - LUK clutch setup for the good of the order.

 

[seven30]

Got Jtrspartacus back from Keystone 4x4 with the new Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch. Initial thoughts from the 65 mile trip home are ….WOW! So much more positive engagement from the clutch and much lower pedal travel. I also don’t need to give it any gas to reverse or get started in 1st. I’ll post the 20 degree hill test comparison to my YouTube after I break the new clutch in ….soon. My gut tells me it will walk right up that hill with no throttle applied.

I’ll also post up pics of the stock - LUK clutch setup for the good of the order.

Nice to have first hand feedback!
Hows the overall acceleration and shift speeds. Any changes noticed?
By lower pedal travel do you mean less movement or closer to the floor?

 

[Bbannongmu]

Nice to have first hand feedback!
Hows the overall acceleration and shift speeds. Any changes noticed?
By lower pedal travel do you mean less movement or closer to the floor?

Not really doing too much speed or acceleration shifting. Taking it easy for break in. However I think it will be pretty good. It definitely has more pedal effort required and feels like a properly bled clutch.

Lower travel is both - way closer to the floor and it positively engages like every other clutch I’ve driven with in the last 30years. The stock clutch was weird, very vague when it was new and got better over time but it engaged way at the top of the travel and seemed to have a wide, mushy zone and then a on/off binary point with no feel. I actually moved my seat closer 1 click to be in better position for the new engagement point.

I’ll do some more driving and break in and report back.

 

[seven30]

Not really doing too much speed or acceleration shifting. Taking it easy for break in. However I think it will be pretty good. It definitely has more pedal effort required and feels like a properly bled clutch.

Lower travel is both - way closer to the floor and it positively engages like every other clutch I’ve driven with in the last 30years. The stock clutch was weird, very vague when it was new and got better over time but it engaged way at the top of the travel and seemed to have a wide, mushy zone and then a on/off binary point with no feel. I actually moved my seat closer 1 click to be in better position for the new engagement point.

I’ll do some more driving and break in and report back.

Thanks for feedback. We installed a centerforce in my sons Mustang last year. More pedal pressure for sure but seems indestructible and offers good control.
When you get time please do some mythbusting and set the record straight on the stock clutch.

Sponsored