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Kindafearless

Kindafearless

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Elise, on your aluminum welding, are you using MIG or TIG?

MIG with aluminum is kind of a PITA, seems to trap and draw dirt which is a nono with aluminum. If you're using a 110V machine then you aren't hot enough to really stack the dimes.

The best way to weld aluminum is with a TIG, but you need a high frequency (or square wave) machine and they aren't cheap. But with such a machine you can weld Coke cans together and stack the dimes.
I’m running a pretty nice TIG at 220. It’s my skill that is lacking, not the machine
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kevman65

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I’m running a pretty nice TIG at 220. It’s my skill that is lacking, not the machine
If you don't have one, or aren't using it, a foot pedal is your best friend.

You can set the torch right where you want it, get the wire in place, go WOT on the pedal and dob your rod, then let off the pedal. You get used to it and you can stack dimes all day long.

A lot of the newer machines use a thumb reostat but to me the control isn't there.
 

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Elise, on your aluminum welding, are you using MIG or TIG?

MIG with aluminum is kind of a PITA, seems to trap and draw dirt which is a nono with aluminum. If you're using a 110V machine then you aren't hot enough to really stack the dimes.

The best way to weld aluminum is with a TIG, but you need a high frequency (or square wave) machine and they aren't cheap. But with such a machine you can weld Coke cans together and stack the dimes.
I picked up an Everlast multiprocess welder, Tig, stick, and has a plasma cutter on it. 240volt, 200A AC/DC welder. One thing I do know as a lifelong fabricator and welder is of you run a Y and mix 5psi of helium (if you can find it) helps with the weld process. If I remember correctly it helps heat up the aluminum allowing the welding process to be easier.
 

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I picked up an Everlast multiprocess welder, Tig, stick, and has a plasma cutter on it. 240volt, 200A AC/DC welder. One thing I do know as a lifelong fabricator and welder is of you run a Y and mix 5psi of helium (if you can find it) helps with the weld process. If I remember correctly it helps heat up the aluminum allowing the welding process to be easier.
Being on the construction side (industrial & commercial piping) we don't get to play with gas mixes. Argon (most of my work is pharmaceutical so 99.99%) is our mainstay for TIG applications. I did get to do aluminum TIG using an ancient and HUGE Miller high freq machine and getting the pulses right and using the pedal made me a better welder than I am.

In the "old" days (older than even me) the TIG mixture used to have about a 5% helium mix, where "heli-arc" came from.
 

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Being on the construction side (industrial & commercial piping) we don't get to play with gas mixes. Argon (most of my work is pharmaceutical so 99.99%) is our mainstay for TIG applications. I did get to do aluminum TIG using an ancient and HUGE Miller high freq machine and getting the pulses right and using the pedal made me a better welder than I am.

In the "old" days (older than even me) the TIG mixture used to have about a 5% helium mix, where "heli-arc" came from.
I've never used the pulse side of things. Always had my trusty pedal.
 

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I own an AiRocked TJ. It's my second one. Both have the York Compressor's under the hood, so I would say I have about 14 years worth of experience with them. They are extremely reliable and Ive never had a clutch go out on me, so they do not interfere with the rest of the stuff on the serpentine belt. It's just a matter of making sure the belt tension is correct and then you can forget it. If it's too tight or too loose, you will know because it will squeal.

I recently installed this model in my #NewToMe TJ Rubicon
https://offroadonly.com/shop/on-boa...york-compressor-with-finned-head-tj-specific/

The Kit from ORO is a solid one and has everything you need. It isn't cheap, and you can piece it together if you wanted to, but getting it from ORO ensures you have everything you need from someone who has been providing this stuff for almost 2 decades now.

I only have a tiny 1 gallon tank, but it does the trick. Compared to most people, my OnBoard Air is way more active.

On the Street, the AiRock has an active mode, which is used to keep the tub level during turns.
That requires venting and refilling the air in the bags. The amount depends on how aggressive the driving and turns are. It also maintains a set height

Off-Road, I have the height set slightly higher and the OBA is used to activate and either disconnect/re-connect my front swaybar called the SwayLoc. It requires 50psi to keep it open.
Depending on my Rock Crawling, I adjust the height of the jeep and lean in any of 8 different directions if needed to get to a better C.O.G.

At the end of the day, I use it to air up my tires. Setting the engine RPM to 3000rpms helps with that.

I wheel east coast Black/reds, so my TJ is constantly put to the test.
Below are 2 pics of the york installed [Not great and the engine is dirty AF] The rest of the pics/information on my TJ can be found in this showcase
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/showcase/airock-crawler.701/

Top View
1642346143346.png


Side view where you can see the intake is tapped into the Jeeps Intake
1642346194980.png


It may not eliminate your need for a larger Air Tank, but IMHO, the Yorks work much better than the electric compressors.
I am interested in the York compressor for my JTRD...will this one work? Do you know if York has the appropriate brackets? Didn't see them on their website.
 

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It will not,
The one I linked is specifically for the TJ.
They do have a kit listed for the Gas JT but do not have one listed for the Diesel JT engine.

That would be worth a call to them.
 

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Kindafearless

Kindafearless

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Did you run into any issues with the Artec skids and Schrockworks sliders fitting together? I run the Schrockworks and am looking for a skid to run
You have to cut a couple of the mounting points on the skids to make it work, but after that it’s been rock solid.
 
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Kindafearless

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Installed the rear Anti-Rock setup with Artec brackets this weekend. I decided to try these instead of the ones direct from Rock Jock, because… why not? Had to fabricate some tabs and weld them to the axle. We’ll see how they work when the off-roading season starts again in April!

Jeep Gladiator Practical Truck for the Over Prepared Woman 5EE63D72-34E3-4CC1-9301-A996182FA086
 

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Saw you cut the bed and frame, did you figure a plan for shocks and changing angle by cutting into bed?
 
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Kindafearless

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