Steersmarts vs rpm vs apex chasis

[Arisdocjk]

A new tie rod and drag link is in my immediate future. I am considering the three above. Has anyone used both or all three to give a comparison. It will be installed on my 2021 Mojave with an AEV spacer lift. I am just doing moderate trails with no serious rock crawling. Thanks for the help!

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[CivilJeep]

I have Steer Smarts components, but do not have experience with either of the other two brands. I originally bought just the adjustable front trackbar, and I was so impressed with the quality and strength that I went on to upgrade the rear trackbar and all front end components with Steer Smarts. The other brands may be as good, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Steer Smarts if you go that route.

 

[Boostnu]

rpm and apex are pretty similar. Rpm uses apex tie rod ends. I’m pretty happy with my rpm stuff so far.

 

[jac04]

I have Steer Smarts components, ... I was so impressed with the quality and strength that I went on to upgrade the rear trackbar and all front end components with Steer Smarts. ... but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Steer Smarts if you go that route.

I have Steer Smarts tie rod and drag link on my JK. The construction of the JT components is similar. I'll say that I really like the "no flop" feature of the tie rod ends, and the use of clamps instead of jam nuts. They appear to be very well made.

BUT ... appearances can be deceptive. I have personally bent 2 tie rod ends on my tie rod. Sure, I have bumped the tie rod while wheeling, but that's the point of upgrading. One bent so bad that I had to strap it to a tree to bend it back, but when I put just a little load on it, it bent back too far the other way with ease.

I'm familiar with heat treated steel forgings, and it was obvious that there was something very wrong with their material. I notified Steer Smarts and their "holier than thou" attitude was really bad. They told me flat out that there could never be a problem with their tie rod ends. They should have seen this as a learning opportunity. Instead of wanting my TRE back for a postmortem and sending me a new one, I had to buy a new one. Lame.

 

[CivilJeep]

I have Steer Smarts tie rod and drag link on my JK. The construction of the JT components is similar. I'll say that I really like the "no flop" feature of the tie rod ends, and the use of clamps instead of jam nuts. They appear to be very well made.

BUT ... appearances can be deceptive. I have personally bent 2 tie rod ends on my tie rod. Sure, I have bumped the tie rod while wheeling, but that's the point of upgrading. One bent so bad that I had to strap it to a tree to bend it back, but when I put just a little load on it, it bent back too far the other way with ease.

I'm familiar with heat treated steel forgings, and it was obvious that there was something very wrong with their material. I notified Steer Smarts and their "holier than thou" attitude was really bad. They told me flat out that there could never be a problem with their tie rod ends. They should have seen this as a learning opportunity. Instead of wanting my TRE back for a postmortem and sending me a new one, I had to buy a new one. Lame.

Disappointing to hear they treated you that way. Most of us accept that there are occasionally bad parts, but for them to be unwilling to make it right is not good. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Arisdocjk]

That is a bad way for Steersmarts to treat their customers. Does the rpm have no flop ends on their joints?

 

[hjdca]

That is a bad way for Steersmarts to treat their customers. Does the rpm have no flop ends on their joints?

Yes, I bought RPM tie rod and drag link at the end of last year, and they have the Anti-Flop ends. They are super thick. I would plan on using the RPM collar on the tie rod for the steering stabilizer, and the teraflex stabilizer stud post or equivalent to give you the most clearance for the stabilizer. With my Falcon 3.5" lift, my Falcon Nexus 2.2 steering stabilizer is just tilted slightly back from vertical to get the most clearance. I have already banged my tie rod a few times on boulders and the aluminum works as advertised -- my steering wheel was still perfectly straight driving home from the trail.

 

[Gladiator Overland]

Yes, I bought RPM tie rod and drag link at the end of last year, and they have the Anti-Flop ends. They are super thick. I would plan on using the RPM collar on the tie rod for the steering stabilizer, and the teraflex stabilizer stud post or equivalent to give you the most clearance for the stabilizer. With my Falcon 3.5" lift, my Falcon Nexus 2.2 steering stabilizer is just tilted slightly back from vertical to get the most clearance. I have already banged my tie rod a few times on boulders and the aluminum works as advertised -- my steering wheel was still perfectly straight driving home from the trail.

Rpm recommends using the Clayton steering stabilizer relocation bracket as well for their steering kit.
Although we are waiting on our Falcon shocks to install our suspension and steering parts. For the Veteran Overland Project Vehicle we went with the RPm Steering 2.5ton Steering Kit. 2” solid aluminum Tie Rod and drag link with anti flop ends. These are very stout and a vast improvement over the stock pieces. We also got their front adjustable track bar which is 1 3/8” and used rock jock Johnny Joints. We got this as even though our Terraflex RT3 LT 3.5” Suspension Kit came with a track bar. It has been know you have issues with how it tightened down. I have not seen this issue with the RPm track bar. We ended up upgraded to not only beef up steering components to prevent breakage when out 300miles from civilization. But also to help correct issues caused by sloppy steering brought out by upgrading to 37”. I looked at a few others and though some are similar I found that the customer service, reputation, and ability to deliver in a timely manner where my driving factors to go with RPM. We will have more feedback after our almost 20k Offroad adventure later this year. Should be able to find out what does work and what doesn’t.

 

[hjdca]

Rpm recommends using the Clayton steering stabilizer relocation bracket as well for their steering kit.
Although we are waiting on our Falcon shocks to install our suspension and steering parts. For the Veteran Overland Project Vehicle we went with the RPm Steering 2.5ton Steering Kit. 2” solid aluminum Tie Rod and drag link with anti flop ends. These are very stout and a vast improvement over the stock pieces. We also got their front adjustable track bar which is 1 3/8” and used rock jock Johnny Joints. We got this as even though our Terraflex RT3 LT 3.5” Suspension Kit came with a track bar. It has been know you have issues with how it tightened down. I have not seen this issue with the RPm track bar. We ended up upgraded to not only beef up steering components to prevent breakage when out 300miles from civilization. But also to help correct issues caused by sloppy steering brought out by upgrading to 37”. I looked at a few others and though some are similar I found that the customer service, reputation, and ability to deliver in a timely manner where my driving factors to go with RPM. We will have more feedback after our almost 20k Offroad adventure later this year. Should be able to find out what does work and what doesn’t.

Regarding tightening down the Lock nuts, I used both an 18" and 15" Cresent wrenches. I poured blue locktite on the connection and tightened down the lock nuts as hard as I possibly could. Since then, I have done a lot of wheeling and it has not come loose at all. I use paint marks to mark the locations.
Note: When I first got it, I did not use the blue locktite and did not give it enough umph and the tie rod nut came loose after some wheeling. So, when you are sure your toe in is correct and your steering wheel is straight, use the blue locktite and tighten it for all your worth.

 

[Gladiator Overland]

Regarding tightening down the Lock nuts, I used both an 18" and 15" Cresent wrenches. I poured blue locktite on the connection and tightened down the lock nuts as hard as I possibly could. Since then, I have done a lot of wheeling and it has not come loose at all. I use paint marks to mark the locations.
Note: When I first got it, I did not use the blue locktite and did not give it enough umph and the tie rod nut came loose after some wheeling. So, when you are sure your toe in is correct and your steering wheel is straight, use the blue locktite and tighten it for all your worth.

It has nothing to do with the bolts coming loose. There are a few videos showing this issue on YouTube. It seems as if there is not enough movement for it to tighten it down enough to prevent movement over time. Supposedly a collar has been introduced to remedy the issue. Though I have spoken to at least one person who had an updated track bar and still faced this issue. I myself will just sell the track bar in the kit and utilize the rpm one and have peace of mind. I cannot have one fail on us as we travel to different countries with our project and mainly are away, by a few hundred miles, from civilization, for up to 3 weeks at a time. Not something that we want to worry about and having to carry all the extra gear to fix breakages like this.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Not considering Currie/RockJock?

 

[Arisdocjk]

I ran the steersmarts stuff on my Jk and was impressed. No problems with anything, but I don’t do any serious rock crawling. I will look into Currie. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Renegade]

I ran the steersmarts stuff on my Jk and was impressed. No problems with anything, but I don’t do any serious rock crawling. I will look into Currie. Thanks for all the help!

I'm just curious what issue you are trying to solve/prevent if you aren't going to be doing any serious rock crawling. The stock stuff seems pretty darn stout compared to past offerings.

 

[Arisdocjk]

going to be doing any serious rock crawling. The stock

I am noticing some mild bump steer. My drag link will not stay tight at the knuckle. I have to tighten it about once a week. Just want something a little more stout. I am looking at only getting a drag link now.

 

[Renegade]

I am noticing some mild bump steer. My drag link will not stay tight at the knuckle. I have to tighten it about once a week. Just want something a little more stout. I am looking at only getting a drag link now.

Bump steer is usually a geometry issue. Is it maybe a shimmy? Are you saying that the rod end nut is working loose weekly? That’s weird. Is there grease on the threads or something?

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