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6th gear most of the time.

Gvsukids

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Reverse lights stuck on when unlocking with fob instead of proximity, brake hold malfunction that leaves the brakes stuck partially on. Those two happened in the first week. Since tire size, gearing, and TPMS settings are fixed, I set them, removed the Tazer, hooked wires back up to Jeep, and stored it in the glove box. No issues after. Left it married. And yes, I’m on the most current firmware.
Not having used those options, everything else has always worked for me.
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Not having used those options, everything else has always worked for me.
That’s the annoying part. I didn’t use those options either. They just happened by themselves. I touched three things. Wheel diameter, gearing, and TPMS setting. Nothing else.
 

Gvsukids

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That’s the annoying part. I didn’t use those options either. They just happened by themselves. I touched three things. Wheel diameter, gearing, and TPMS setting. Nothing else.
Have you reached out to Zautomotive?
 

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Let me act like an old man and say "Get off my Lawn". I'm a Gen X'r and grew up in the 80's reading 4 Wheeler and Peterson's Off Road magazines. You do not need big ass tires for a good off road vehicle. You need low gears. For years and years and years there were Willys Jeeps, International Scouts, Ford Hi-boys, etc. out running around off road and they got around just fine on their skinny tires. If you want to put big ass tires and lifts go for it. Just make sure you put lower gears to compensate and I'll catch flack for this, but a Dana 44 should only have 35 inch tires max. Move up to a Dana 60 if you want larger tires.
That depends on the weight of the tire. Sure if your running 90lb+ 37's or better then you should think about a axle swap. Some 37's weigh less than 35's and that's why I picked mine they weigh 72lbs. For what it's worth in over 20 some odd years of going off road I'm yet to see someone snap a Dana 44 on 37's.
 

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I don't recall the exact increments but am pretty sure there were more choices than just whole numbers or half-way points.
JScan goes every .25 or quarter. Can't recall what mine had to be set at but they measured 36.4 mounted and that wasn't the number that had to be put in to get the speedo correct. Without looking seems like 36 was the magic number for mine.
 

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Jeeperjamie

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It’s fascinating how in gear or mileage discussions two different people can have very similar setups, same gears and tire size but complete opposite opinions of how it performs and what mileage they get.
Driving habits and terrain have a lot more to do with it than just setup IMO. Even though someone says they aren't heavy on the skinny pedal doesn't mean they aren't more aggressive then someone else. Also Idle time is big with these Gladiators. I've found when you sit at idle the Mpgs drop pretty quickly. That's why I let the stop/start do it's thing and in the age of order online food, I haven't set in a drive through for probably well over a year now. I'm always ordering online and running in to get my food or having them bring it out to the Truck.
 

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Have you reached out to Zautomotive?
I’ve seen others have relatively little luck with that, and can pick other battles. This one doesn’t bother me enough in the grand scheme of things.
 

WILDHOBO

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That depends on the weight of the tire. Sure if your running 90lb+ 37's or better then you should think about a axle swap. Some 37's weigh less than 35's and that's why I picked mine they weigh 72lbs. For what it's worth in over 20 some odd years of going off road I'm yet to see someone snap a Dana 44 on 37's.
I just looked mine up. 79 lbs. Not the lightest, but not bad for 37x12.5x17.
 

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JScan goes every .25 or quarter. Can't recall what mine had to be set at but they measured 36.4 mounted and that wasn't the number that had to be put in to get the speedo correct. Without looking seems like 36 was the magic number for mine.
Could be - I just recall it was "finer" than half.
I'll have to throw AlfaOBD on and see if that's set in the system "choices" or set by the software (meaning jscan, not the Jeep's software)
Anyway, thanks for the refresher. It's been almost a year.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Driving habits and terrain have a lot more to do with it than just setup IMO. Even though someone says they aren't heavy on the skinny pedal doesn't mean they aren't more aggressive then someone else. Also Idle time is big with these Gladiators. I've found when you sit at idle the Mpgs drop pretty quickly. That's why I let the stop/start do it's thing and in the age of order online food, I haven't set in a drive through for probably well over a year now. I'm always ordering online and running in to get my food or having them bring it out to the Truck.
Well said - yes, absolutely. My wife and I both found these engines to be hogs when idling. When my wife does the remote start in the dead of winter to warm things up, I cringe as I know my 19.5 will be 18 by the time we leave the garage. And yes, we have both noticed fair differences by letting the system do it's thing.
It's one of the positives of my "handicap" or "issues" - observation, recognition, pattern recognition........ I can now see a long-term pattern emerge.

When I drive my wife's Jeep, I know how proud she is of her MPG and if it comes back with a much lower number, I get hit up about it. So I try to keep her MPG numbers up when I take her Jeep out for service, wash, fuel-up, whatever. And every time, it's down a bit. She gets back in and drives for a day and the mpg is right back up there.
I try but just can't duplicate her driving of that Jeep.
 

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AmishMike

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Anyone else hardly seeing 7or 8 gear?
Mine is a 2022 with the max tow automatic with the Mopar lift and 35x12.5r17 M/T tires. I have the Tazer mini Jl and my speedometer is dead on with GPS. But still i don’t hit 7 gear very often and 8th is rare. Any suggestions???
Do you really need lower gears? Do you find a want of more torque or better low speed control? With a Max Tow, you don't have the 4:1 transfer case so lower gears would be big help when in 4-Low.
If your only question is for highway speeds, then I would not worry about it.

The chart be low is straight math, no slippage or efficiencies calculated.

It gives you effective gear ratio in a given gear versus differential gears.
A/TM/T
3.73​
4.1​
4.56​
4.88​
5.13​
1st
4.71​
5.13​
17.57​
19.13​
19.31​
21.03​
21.48​
23.39​
22.98​
25.03​
24.16​
26.32​
2nd
3.13​
2.63​
11.67​
9.81​
12.83​
10.78​
14.27​
11.99​
15.27​
12.83​
16.06​
13.49​
3rd
2.1​
1.53​
7.8​
5.71​
6.2​
6.27​
6.66​
6.98​
10.25​
7.47​
10.77​
7.85​
4th
1.67​
1​
6.23​
3.73​
5.77​
4.1​
7.61​
4.56​
8.15​
4.88​
8.57​
5.13​
5th
1.28​
0.81​
4.77​
3.02​
5.25​
3.32​
5.84​
3.69​
6.25​
3.95​
6.57​
4.16​
6th
1​
0.72​
3.73​
2.68​
4.1​
2.95​
4.56​
3.28​
4.88​
3.51​
5.13​
3.69​
7th
0.84​
3.13​
3.44​
3.83​
4.1​
4.31​
8th
0.67​
2.5​
2.75​
3.05​
3.26​
3.44​
Yes, changing to 4.88's will give you an effective ratio in 7/8th gear (4.1/3.26)similar to what you have now in 6th gear (3.73) Either way, the engine is finding it's correct rpm at any given speed, it just doesn't currently need 7th or 8th to obtain it.

You could further extrapolate and multiply your tire rotations per mile by the effective gear ratio above to find your rpm at 60 mph.
with true 35's (given 593 rotations/mile)
6th gear 2212 rpm
7th gear 1856 rpm
8th gear 1483 rpm

Not knowing what the torque converter stall speed is or where lock-up is, I would guess that 8th gear at 60 would not lock the converter and cause slippage, heat general badness etc..
 
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AmishMike

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The below chart gives approximate rpm for tire size vs. differential gear at 65 mph with 1:1 transmission gear- no overdrive.

Jeep Gladiator 6th gear most of the time. 1649865972536

Thank you Quadratec for the chart.
 

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IMO 4.10's are the minimum for 35's. (Obviously this can vary with brand and size of wheels and brand of tires when considering rotational mass) With my Methods and 315/70 Milestars I can hit 7th easily and 8th on the flats ... anything other than that and I'm back down to 5th or 6th.
 

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FWIW, 2021 Diesel Rubicon Gladiator on a Mopar lift and 37’s.

I see 8th on all but the steepest of hills. Latest MPG tracked via Fuelly can be seen in my signature, currently at 10,000 miles.
 

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That depends on the weight of the tire. Sure if your running 90lb+ 37's or better then you should think about a axle swap. Some 37's weigh less than 35's and that's why I picked mine they weigh 72lbs. For what it's worth in over 20 some odd years of going off road I'm yet to see someone snap a Dana 44 on 37's.
Yes, I'll agree with you when it comes to weight of tires. It seems like everything is heavy Load Range E anymore. It's hard to find Load Range C or D tires. It's more than just breakage, it's the wear and tear that larger tires put on a Dana 44.
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