Jack Points for Floor jack (3 Ton Professional type)

[Tupacshakur]

using the hard rubber cocks

Sounds like a good time

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[joeym7]

Sounds like a good time

OOPS Apologize, I am not the best speller in the bunch. I edited my post...If you don't mind (because I can't do it) would you be kind enough to correct the spelling of the word in my quote in your post above?

Really appreciate it in Advance.

 

[cuellar13]

Not to be a "Debbie Downer", but I'd never get under a vehicle that is being held up by a Harbor Freight jack (or most jacks for that matter). Invest in some good jack stands, as a precaution. We have a friend who's brother was killed while working under a car that was only held up by a jack. The jack failed and....

 

[joeym7]

Not to be a "Debbie Downer", but I'd never get under a vehicle that is being held up by a Harbor Freight jack (or most jacks for that matter). Invest in some good jack stands, as a precaution. We have a friend who's brother was killed while working under a car that was only held up by a jack. The jack failed and....

Good advice, for now I am just lifting MO up to facilitate hosing from all side, I have NO intention of getting under it without the hard/dumb jack stands if other needs arise. With my creeper I can inspect without lifting MO up. (mo=Mojave )...Glad you reminded everyone how dangerous this can be.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Yep thanks, for sure I will do that.

Or use jack stands.... kinda thier purpose, but I also own rhino ramps and use them often.

 

[TMGladOverHighAlt]

I have to admit. The Rhino ramps have taken over my jack stands' job of late. 10x less complicated and I def feel safe with Park, emergency brake, and chocks under both rear tires. Obviously jack stands are for uses where the Rhino's are in the way or a tire(s) removed.

 

[joeym7]

Attached is the OEM recommended lift points for both floor jack and 4 point hoist lifts. Most times, I just use the lower control arm pivot point on whatever axle end and side I am lifting with a floor jack.

I got a chance to read that attachment - and thanks again!...So the way I interpret it, with a floor jack I can use the four corners of the frame denoted by #1 in the figure, or the two side of the rear axil denoted by #2...Do you see it the same way?

 

[Hootbro]

I got a chance to read that attachment - and thanks again!...So the way I interpret it, with a floor jack I can use the four corners of the frame denoted by #1 in the figure, or the two side of the rear axil denoted by #2...Do you see it the same way?

That is the way I read it also.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

I have a set of these. They're pretty great for bang for the buck. Welds are solid. They're hefty. The double holes allow for some good adjustability. I trust them way more than your typical ratchet style jack stands, which regularly get recalled for dropping cars on people.

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-J...1_1?keywords=ESCO+10498&qid=1657123739&sr=8-1

 

[Not2Late]

Even with jack stands, I am still nervous. If I am working under the vehicle with the wheels off, I always roll them flat under the car (close to the stands) for extra security. If the stands fail, at least the wheels/tires will stop the vehicle from completely hitting the floor and perhaps this gives me some space to survive. I've even stacked them up under one of the bumbers/frames/tow hitch if I have lifted it high enough.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not to be a "Debbie Downer", but I'd never get under a vehicle that is being held up by a Harbor Freight jack (or most jacks for that matter). Invest in some good jack stands, as a precaution. We have a friend who's brother was killed while working under a car that was only held up by a jack. The jack failed and....

Absolutely. I won't get under a vehicle unless it's solidly on stands.
Just as important as the jack is where to place the stands. If you have one end up way high - I've seen vehicles slide on stands. I have 8 stands if I don't count the light-weight stands I have for holding axles and stuff while swapping certain parts.
The vehicle will always be supported on stands.

I have a set of these. They're pretty great for bang for the buck. Welds are solid. They're hefty. The double holes allow for some good adjustability. I trust them way more than your typical ratchet style jack stands, which regularly get recalled for dropping cars on people.

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-J...1_1?keywords=ESCO+10498&qid=1657123739&sr=8-1

Good quality "ratchet" stands will hold fine. Mine are 6 ton rated. I've supported small tractors on them. My ratchet stands are a lot bigger than those you linked. Those match my smaller ratchet stands I use for axles and trailers.
When you work on big Case tractors, frame extensions - extending the front axle forward several inches, etc. - you have to know your stands.

Swapping suspension parts - axle supported on lighter stands -

Front suspension totally removed, cross member removed, car fully supported by stands, front of engine on a stand to remove the cross member -

Car on stands, detailing for show - and I mean DETAILING...........

 

[joeym7]

Hi Folks, I got a chance to try the jack...It is really nice and will help with the undercharge cleaning.

It is specked to lift up to 24.5", I probably got it to 22"s today or so...I got a little concerned about the angle between the saddle and the frame at that height.

When the saddle first hits the frame it is flat to the frame and has a lot of surface area contact with the frame. As the lift arm goes higher and higher the surface area contact between the saddle and frame gets less and less...

So my question for you folks with experience with hydraulic floor jacks is there any way to keep more service area between the saddle of the jack and the frame of the car as I get up towards 24 inches?

Thanks in Advance,
-Joe

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hi Folks, I got a chance to try the jack...It is really nice and will help with the undercharge cleaning.

It is specked to lift up to 24.5", I probably got it to 22"s today or so...I got a little concerned about the angle between the saddle and the frame at that height.

When the saddle first hits the frame it is flat to the frame and has a lot of surface area contact with the frame. As the lift arm goes higher and higher the surface area contact between the saddle and frame gets less and less...

So my question for you folks with experience with hydraulic floor jacks is there any way to keep more service area between the saddle of the jack and the frame of the car as I get up towards 24 inches?

Thanks in Advance,
-Joe

My first question is - what Floor jack does that?
Mine keep the "saddle" or pad totally level, from all the way down to all the way up. The pad stays 100% level,

The other thing to beware of with floor jacks - they MUST be able to roll freely on the floor. Never use them in gravel, dirt, or on a dirty floor with debris, sand, rock, whatever, that won't let them roll on the floor.
That's because as the jack's arm goes up, it also swings in an arc toward the user - the jack's body must be free to roll on the floor so the jack itself moves, the pad or saddle stays put.
I've seen cases of where someone used a large floor jack in dirt, or a really rough dirty garage floor. As they jacked their truck up, the jack could not roll on the floor so the arm with pad pulled back instead, sliding off the frame as it went up, dropping the truck SMACK to the ground.

I have yet to use or own a jack where the pad or saddle that went under the axle tube, frame, cross member, or in the case of a car, under the lower control arm did not stay perfectly level.
I have 5 floor jacks of varied sizes - some from the 50s and 60s, one less than 20 years old, and another about 40 years old, a cheapy from a discount store that's held up great - and every one of them, the lift pad has other arms that keep it level as it goes up because they swing in a different arc than the main lift arm. None change angle.
I guess I'd have to see a jack that didn't do that.

 

[bleda2002]

I was wondering that too, mine rolls and the pad stays level, not sure what floor jack doesn't do that

 

[joeym7]

My first question is - what Floor jack does that?
Mine keep the "saddle" or pad totally level, from all the way down to all the way up. The pad stays 100% level,

OK, my Bad, I misdiagnosed the situation...The Saddle does indeed stay flat, what doesn't stay flat is the frame of the truck as the truck tilts to the opposite side as it is lifted higher and higher. As the frame tilts towered the opposite side there is less and less surface area between it and the saddle...

Is there anything I can do to lessen this effect?

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