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1 or 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft; Adam's or Reel Driveline?

Billyj7175

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Anybody have any good input on which is best?
I run an Adams front shaft, and I was looking to upgrade the rear factory CV-style shaft.
Adam's and Tom Wood's only lists a rear 1350 1-piece, but Reel Driveline lists a 1350 2-piece.
It seems a 2 piece wouldn't hang down as far (less chance of contact) and Reel claims they are stronger. Aside from more u-joints to wear out/replace, what else about the 2-piece would be a downfall?

Thanks in advance!
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aFatBird

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I'm pretty sure depending on lift height the cv angle and pinion angle on a 2 piece rear will not be as nice. I'll probably end up going 1 piece driveshaft from adams in the far future.
 

Tennessee Gobi

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I’m considering a 2-piece for mine an have been looking at the 2-piece options that Knoxville Driveline offers.

https://www.knoxvilledriveline.com/collections/jeep-gladiator-jt

They are always at the Smokey Mountain Jeep Invasion, so I’m going to see if they are offering any show specials when I go this year.
 

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1 piece, less points of failure, less clearance.

2 piece, more points of failure, more clearance
 

pcrawfordpt

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JE Teel makes great driveshafts. If Jim says they are stronger I would believe him. I have his front DS and will replace when my rear needs it. Also, depending on your lift make sure you have the drop down spacer to get you back to factory spec. If you crawl, every bit of clearance is needed. I already marked my factory shaft up pretty good, can’t imagine if it were a one piece.
 

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WILDHOBO

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Anybody have any good input on which is best?
I run an Adams front shaft, and I was looking to upgrade the rear factory CV-style shaft.
Adam's and Tom Wood's only lists a rear 1350 1-piece, but Reel Driveline lists a 1350 2-piece.
It seems a 2 piece wouldn't hang down as far (less chance of contact) and Reel claims they are stronger. Aside from more u-joints to wear out/replace, what else about the 2-piece would be a downfall?

Thanks in advance!
Dana Spicer Aftermarket 2 piece, 3ā€ OD steel. Bolt in with no yoke change. Rated to up to 6ā€ lift. 1350 at the differential, cv at the carrier bearing and t-case. Great performance after well over 45k miles with it on.
 

DavoSmith

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I'm going to go with a JE Reel Two piece rear drive shaft (1350) despite the fact that most guys that I know who are running 1 ton axles, 4.5" or more lift and 40+ tires are using a 1 piece rear.

I like the idea of keeping the driveshaft as high as possible.

I'll post some photos in Aug once I get it in.

Here is a good video with some great visual aids.
 

WILDHOBO

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I'm going to go with a JE Reel Two piece rear drive shaft (1350) despite the fact that most guys that I know who are running 1 ton axles, 4.5" or more lift and 40+ tires are using a 1 piece rear.

I like the idea of keeping the driveshaft as high as possible.

I'll post some photos in Aug once I get it in.
You’re making a good choice. Regardless of lift, two piece is better for the transfer case, and ground clearance. Even Adam’s recommends them for gladiators. I’ve never run a rear one piece. For years I had a Dana performance Heavy duty two piece good for a 6ā€ lift. Now I have adams’ version, which is way better.
 

WILDHOBO

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Dana Spicer Aftermarket 2 piece, 3ā€ OD steel. Bolt in with no yoke change. Rated to up to 6ā€ lift. 1350 at the differential, cv at the carrier bearing and t-case. Great performance after well over 45k miles with it on.
I’ve since replaced this with Adam’s’ two piece. No failures per se. The carrier bearing bracket got old after 55k miles and was rattling. It still worked fine though and was still balanced.
 

caryt

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If you play hard in the rocks only 2 choices IMO JE Reel or Tom Woods either one KOH spec. 2 piece rear.
 

tysongladiator

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I've had friends with a one piece and I still have my factory two piece. I can see a little bit of his driveshaft when looking from the side so it seems the 2 piece has a little more clearance. It does add a couple more parts to the mix though.

Another thing is that if you have the 1350, it might create a situation where other components like the pinion or gears become the weaker components. Better off replacing a driveshaft or u-joints as opposed to diff components. Only my opinion though.
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