2" Mopar Lift Installed - Learned a Few Things

[Dos704]

I installed a Mopar 2" lift on my 2020 Rubicon over the weekend. Regrettably, I also installed a set of lower control arm drop brackets along with the longer Mopar lower control arms. When I brought it in for an alignment, I found out the drop brackets were "over-correcting," and the front axle has too much caster (axle tilting backwards). I'm going to remove the drop brackets and keep the Mopar control arms installed. The other option was to keep the drop brackets and swap the shorter stock lower control arms back in. I prefer the "less parts is more" and those drop brackets are one more thing to get hung up and break.

I kept my Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit up front. I honestly have no idea how it still sits higher in the rear. The Bilstein reservoir shocks make the ride better than stock and are worth the price over the Fox, IMHO.

Anyways, here are some photos, let me know of any questions.

Sponsored

 

[Gizmo]

I’d keep the geometry correction brackets and get a set of adjustable arms with better bushings not soft Clevite like OE. . Make sure the arms can be adjusted to stock length not all are. The better bushings will hold the front axle from moving as much as Clevite does which translates to steering correction input when driving. Same with track bar. Bushings are important there for same reasons , less steering correction. Uppers are not as important as far as bushings think Metalcloak

 

[Stan H]

I installed a Mopar 2" lift on my 2020 Rubicon over the weekend. Regrettably, I also installed a set of lower control arm drop brackets along with the longer Mopar lower control arms. When I brought it in for an alignment, I found out the drop brackets were "over-correcting," and the front axle has too much caster (axle tilting backwards). I'm going to remove the drop brackets and keep the Mopar control arms installed. The other option was to keep the drop brackets and swap the shorter stock lower control arms back in. I prefer the "less parts is more" and those drop brackets are one more thing to get hung up and break.

I kept my Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit up front. I honestly have no idea how it still sits higher in the rear. The Bilstein reservoir shocks make the ride better than stock and are worth the price over the Fox, IMHO.

Anyways, here are some photos, let me know of any questions.

Its higher in the rear 2 reasons the rear springs are longer and #2 everything goes up 2 inches .. not leveled and up 2 inches just up 2 inches. Some lift kits offer leveling and lift. Alot of people like a rake that way when a load is placed in the bed it sits level instead of looking like it pointing at the sky

 

[raypla]

The rake is there so when you put a load in the back it sits level

 

[AmosMoses]

Looks great and I prefer the rake. I see so many rides with leveling kits where the front looks higher to me. To each their own.

 

[BSW520!]

Same I did mopar with 1” spacer geo brackets and mopar LCA’s was at 7.7 caster. Removed the mopar lca,s kept geo brackets came back down to 6.8 I may change out to Clayton upper and lower adjustable arms. I also did carrier drop spacer and yeti front and rear track bars.

 

[Metalhead]

I too did the mopar lift kit. Very happy with it. I like the rake because I'll be loading up the bed with a rack and tent so should sit close to level with that added weight. Only thing I added was front adjustable track bar.

 

[Gizmo]

Rake also helps the departure angle which these things have a long tail to begin with

 

[Siskiyou Recon]

I installed a Mopar 2" lift on my 2020 Rubicon over the weekend. Regrettably, I also installed a set of lower control arm drop brackets along with the longer Mopar lower control arms. When I brought it in for an alignment, I found out the drop brackets were "over-correcting," and the front axle has too much caster (axle tilting backwards). I'm going to remove the drop brackets and keep the Mopar control arms installed. The other option was to keep the drop brackets and swap the shorter stock lower control arms back in. I prefer the "less parts is more" and those drop brackets are one more thing to get hung up and break.

I kept my Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit up front. I honestly have no idea how it still sits higher in the rear. The Bilstein reservoir shocks make the ride better than stock and are worth the price over the Fox, IMHO.

Anyways, here are some photos, let me know of any questions.

Great looking rig. I have been looking at a similar setup. Thanks

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

The rake is there so when you put a load in the back it sits level

That's a lot of sag in the back for not a lot of weight. My Willys was sagging 2-3" more but I had a Vulcan 900 (750lbs cruiser), toolbox full, cinder blocks, and more in the bed of mine AND was towing a 3200lbs Kia Soul at the same time. Granted I'm stock/no lift, but still...

 

[loganjeeps]

nice looking rig. @Dos704 what bracket did you use to mount those KCs to your bumper bar?

 

[jdinny]

I’d keep the geometry correction brackets and go back to your stock control arms.
The brackets do much more for the handling than control arms can ever do, eprecially if you do more road driving than off roading.
The first set I used was on my '12 2 door wrangler with an AEV kit. I finished installing the lift on a Saturday niget and did not get to the brackets, so I drove it 20 miles home from the shop and thought it handled "good" for a shorty with a kit. Sunday I drove back down to the shop and installed the GEO brackets and damn, when I drove home, I could not even believe the differece they made!
That 2 dr JK handles like a sports car, and there is hardly any nose diving on braking, with the JL Rubicon brake package.

Here's a little info from a maker of the brackets. Geometry Correction Brackets correct the front-end control arm geometry.They improve ride quality caused by uncorrected suspension lift geometry. They allow the front tires to move up and rearward as they did on the stock vehicle in response to a bump rather than trying to 'lunge' over it. Additionally, they dramatically reduce front-end 'dive' during hard braking by relocating the 'virtual instant center' of the front suspension. They also provide alignment correction for proper tracking by restoring caster angle without the need for cam bolts or different/adjustable arms, plus a slight reduction in maximum front driveshaft angle during suspension travel.

Do yourself a favor and keep the brackets.

At any rate, good luck which ever way you go, and Happy Easter to you and your family

 

[RickF]

A little rake looks great and helps to keep the truck level when there is some weight in the bed.

 

[rock-rod]

My recently sold '22 JLUR 4xe was running the mopar lift plus a 1 inch terraflex spacer in the front to level it out. When I originally installed the lift, I tried running the extended lower arms and while it handled OK, the front end felt harsh on expansion joints. I installed AEV correction brackets which improved the ride, but like you discovered this overcorrected the caster. I removed the extended arms and kept the brackets and then the jeep rode great and handling was improved. I noticed during the brief time I was running both the extended lowers and the AEV brackets a lot of bump steer. Removing the extended arms and replacing them with the stock length arms eliminated the bump steer. I'm planning to duplicate this set up with my recently acquired '21 JT Rubicon. The stock rubicon shocks and springs are horrendously soft.

 

[SanTan38]

Over thinking it a bit, yea….. Lol.
After a bit of reading and research I did the mopar 2" with Bilstien shocks for my 2022 JT max tow. No leveling. I’m a practical kind of guy. If it doesn’t improve anything, it doesn’t get installed.
So I never really understood the leveling for most people. Seems more of a fad to me. I’ve gone up plenty of big mountain granite steps and never had bottoming out issues. But to each their own….
Anyway, love the 2" mopar set up. It’s served my needs better than metalcloak or AEV or skyjacker, especially since I didn’t want to go bigger than 33” tires. I did install yeti front and rear track bars. And a carrier bearing spacer. Drop brackets were not necessary. Caster is perfectly fine. At least with my configuration. I also upgraded the steering damper to the fox pro adjustable through shaft type. No shimmy or wandering. Rock solid off road and on road.
Eventually I’ll change out tie rod and drag link with yeti parts when ever the stock stuff wears out.
If I started to do leveling and 35”/37" tires and a 3" lift, drop brackets make more sense. But then I’m also looking at a lot more immediately necessary steering and suspension upgrades as well.

Sponsored