2020 Sport Bought used 10/22 with 49K (Problems adding up) (Rumbling sound at low speeds)

[tksmr2]

Hello,

I bought a 2020 Mopar lifted JT with 35" tires, Pedal Commander, Tazer, aftermarket front bumper, Harbor Freight Winch and a few other small things back on October of 2022. Got it with an aftermarket Warranty. 49K miles at the time.. now about 75K miles.

I want another Gladiator.. Should I address these problems or let the next dealer fix it? Local dealer is really giving me issues and doesn't seem to want to deal with it (probably b/c of the aftermarket warranty)

I owe on this vehicle at about what it is worth from the looks of it, maybe slightly more b/c of the aftermarket warranty I got for about 3K. But in it's current state it is not really ready to be sold unless dealers don't care which I'm sure they do at least to a certain extent? Albeit none of the problems below sound major unless it's a rear diff or something having issues which doesn't seem to be the case.

1. Needs alignment or something suspension related is messed up causing me to have to hold the steering wheel ever so slightly to the left. Let go of the wheel and the vehicle does track straight for awhile then starts to veer right.
2. Rumbling sound when driving at 'parking lot' speeds ~ 10mph or less. (tires have only around 4k miles on them) (Brakes replaced 6 months ago)
3. Drivers window and mirror switch both do not work as of recently. Fob works, other switches work. (I think it's the door harness or connections but the dealer couldn't find it in the two days they had it!! )
4. Noticed turn hard right turn backing out of parking space while in 4WD the other night I have a metal on metal noise. Sounds like something front left.
5. Cold air coming in when heat is on passengers side. I heard or read somewhere there are flapper doors behind the glovebox and they may not be functioning correctly??
6. Clock losing time still. Ever since I've had this the clock has lost time and we have to reset it every month. Battery replaced after local dealer kept it for over a week testing the battery due to the start stop system throwing a code, etc only to conclude the battery needs replaced.

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[Deleted member 52902]

Your drive side window and mirror issue is very likely just a simple connection problem. Unplug, and re-plug these where you are certain they seat firmly together. Now if you have had water on the cabin floor, moisture can do some really funky things anywhere in the electrical system. And of course if submerged connections even briefly, they will indeed give you grief later. Unless thoroughly dried and contact cleaner spray suggested too. But in typical situations with pavement only or not so messy/dusty/wet off-road driving, you just try unplug/replug. Your problem should clear up.

 

[nbennettksu]

Clock losing time is typical telltale of battery on its way out.

 

[IamPro2A]

Your drive side window and mirror issue is very likely just a simple connection problem. Unplug, and re-plug these where you are certain they seat firmly together. Now if you have had water on the cabin floor, moisture can do some really funky things anywhere in the electrical system. And of course if submerged connections even briefly, they will indeed give you grief later. Unless thoroughly dried and contact cleaner spray suggested too. But in typical situations with pavement only or not so messy/dusty/wet off-road driving, you just try unplug/replug. Your problem should clear up.

Also, if you have ever had the doors off, it's stupid easy to bend one of the pins plugging the electrical connector back together. That could mess up anything electrical in the door.

I have not looked on my 2025, but I believe they still have not fixed this. On a vehicle meant to have the doors on and off regularly, that is a horrible style plug to use.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

1. Needs alignment or something suspension related is messed up causing me to have to hold the steering wheel ever so slightly to the left. Let go of the wheel and the vehicle does track straight for awhile then starts to veer right.

Likely front track bar. Since it's lifted, if they didn't install a longer trackbar/adjustable trackbar and it's not the right length, your axles will be shifted to the drivers side, which will cause your steering wheel to be turned to the left even though it seemingly tracks straight. Need the correct length trackbar.

 

[tksmr2]

Also, if you have ever had the doors off, it's stupid easy to bend one of the pins plugging the electrical connector back together. That could mess up anything electrical in the door.

I have not looked on my 2025, but I believe they still have not fixed this. On a vehicle meant to have the doors on and off regularly, that is a horrible style plug to use.

Thank you. The previous owner had the doors off several times. I agree I told the dealer to check it.. I can do it but why but it seems dealer don't have any incentive to really dig into any problem with an aftermarket warranty. So I'll probably end up just taking the door panel off and checking it myself.

Likely front track bar. Since it's lifted, if they didn't install a longer trackbar/adjustable trackbar and it's not the right length, your axles will be shifted to the drivers side, which will cause your steering wheel to be turned to the left even though it seemingly tracks straight. Need the correct length trackbar.

Thanks.. I guess since I'm having a lot of issues recently I'm aware of more that was probably already an issue... the track bar. It's simply all stock with a Mopar 2" lift..

 

[Badunit]

Rumbling could be a wheel bearing, which can also cause a slight pull to one side. If bad enough it can also cause things to be out of place enough to get other sounds (like your metal-to-metal contact sound). If it happens at walking or jogging speed, have a friend walk/jog beside you and listen at each wheel.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Thanks.. I guess since I'm having a lot of issues recently I'm aware of more that was probably already an issue... the track bar. It's simply all stock with a Mopar 2" lift..

Anything under 3 inches an adjustable trackbar isn't "required", but that's likely whats causing what you see. If you were to measure axle distances you'll probably find it's about 3/4 inch farther to the drivers side. It shouldn't affect tire wear or anything other than what you described.

My truck does the same thing with the AEV DualSport lift. It drives my OCD crazy, but I haven't taken the time to replace the trackbar yet.

 

[IamPro2A]

Thank you. The previous owner had the doors off several times. I agree I told the dealer to check it.. I can do it but why but it seems dealer don't have any incentive to really dig into any problem with an aftermarket warranty. So I'll probably end up just taking the door panel off and checking it myself.

You do not need to take the door panel off to check that. Since the doors are meant to be removed, there is an access door to get to the plug.

 

[tksmr2]

You do not need to take the door panel off to check that. Since the doors are meant to be removed, there is an access door to get to the plug.

Thank you!!! I'll check it out carefully. Seems like unplugging and plugging back in is easy enough.. just take my time to make sure it's all lined up and nothing bent. But if bent I'll see if I can fix. Thanks!!

 

[Lost1wing]

Backing out in 4wd? Why? Hopefully you are in a dirt/gravel parking lot. That would load up your driveline and could damage your driveline. Rumble? Could be a few things.
-Alignment, as you have a drift issue.
-Bearing or cv, since you have heard the metal sound.
- steering components damaged/worn. It would cause alignment issues .

Door harness, as someone has mentioned is checked a few ways. Hold the inop switch and shake, push and pull the harness at the door hinge area. It won't fix you problem, but it will tell you that you need a new harness or a repair. Since the doors have been off, a bent pin in the harness connector could be the problem it is under the foot well cover. You would need to look real close. Best to take a photo of both sides so you can zoom in. You can try flexing the connector a bit while holding the inop switch.

Door harness damage, probably not covered with warranty, normal wear.

Bent pin at the connector, not warranty. User error.

Bent steering components, not covered I would suspect.

Now if you are driving in 4wd on pavement and they know, I don't think any driveline component will be covered. Maybe I misunderstood your description of your metal on metal noise.

 

[tksmr2]

Backing out in 4wd? Why? Hopefully you are in a dirt/gravel parking lot. That would load up your driveline and could damage your driveline. Rumble? Could be a few things.
-Alignment, as you have a drift issue.
-Bearing or cv, since you have heard the metal sound.
- steering components damaged/worn. It would cause alignment issues .

Door harness, as someone has mentioned is checked a few ways. Hold the inop switch and shake, push and pull the harness at the door hinge area. It won't fix you problem, but it will tell you that you need a new harness or a repair. Since the doors have been off, a bent pin in the harness connector could be the problem it is under the foot well cover. You would need to look real close. Best to take a photo of both sides so you can zoom in. You can try flexing the connector a bit while holding the inop switch.

Door harness damage, probably not covered with warranty, normal wear.

Bent pin at the connector, not warranty. User error.

Bent steering components, not covered I would suspect.

Now if you are driving in 4wd on pavement and they know, I don't think any driveline component will be covered. Maybe I misunderstood your description of your metal on metal noise.

Thanks.. yes. I guess a snowy/icy parking lot backing up.. not really thinking too much about it. I'll never do that again. I know the truck does not like being in 4wd on tight turns even in icy situations. So I hardly ever use 4wd. I think that applies to any truck that has 4wd and the only other truck I've had in my life has been decades ago an 85 4Runner.

I agree probably not covered the rest of the stuff. They did cover my rear Fox shocks once they blew out at 60K miles.

I have an appointment on the 30th to have it looked at at another dealer close by. But I'd say the suspension and alignment needs addressed asap. Luckily I don't have to drive much for the rest of this year.

 

[tksmr2]

Now if you are driving in 4wd on pavement and they know, I don't think any driveline component will be covered. Maybe I misunderstood your description of your metal on metal noise.

Metal on metal was more of a scrapping noise. But i dont' want to try and replicate it.. I only heard it once in a icy/snow covered parking lot a few days ago. And that was when I was backing up and had to turn the wheel almost all the way to the right.. So never going to use 4WD backing up again.

 

[IamPro2A]

Thanks.. yes. I guess a snowy/icy parking lot backing up.. not really thinking too much about it. I'll never do that again. I know the truck does not like being in 4wd on tight turns even in icy situations. So I hardly ever use 4wd. I think that applies to any truck that has 4wd and the only other truck I've had in my life has been decades ago an 85 4Runner.

Snow and ice in 4WD is fine. Dirt in 4WD is fine. Hell, even going perfectly straight on pavement in 4WD is fine.
The key thing to remember is that when you are turning, your front and rear wheels are likely traveling different distances, and the inside and outside wheels are definitely traveling different distances. If everything is locked together, something needs to give. The inside wheels need to spin a little to match the outside wheels. Easy on snow/ice/dirt/etc. Not so easy on dry pavement. If the tires cant break free, something else will.

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