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Flyin6

Flyin6

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I'm liking this newer FlowMaster exhaust, although it would be going bye-bye if I decide to install a Hemi.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03629 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03630 (Medium)
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Flyin6

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...And finally, no more cutting and grinding. Here are the four corners of the factory bracket parts. Each of those pieces took from a couple of minutes to ten or more, so you can appreciate how much work it really takes to install any long-arm suspension.
But, I'm in the home stretch at the moment, about to finish this conversion to a better suspension.

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RudeJeepin

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But, I'm in the home stretch at the moment, about to finish this conversion to a better suspension.
I'm curious why a long arm rear vs a true triangulated 4 link?

I'm thinking that eventually I want long arms in the front and triangulated rear. But I could easily be off on my thinking. I haven't spent too much time doing the research, since I don't plan on going that crazy for several years.
My Gladiator is my daily also.
 
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I'm curious why a long arm rear vs a true triangulated 4 link?

I'm thinking that eventually I want long arms in the front and triangulated rear. But I could easily be off on my thinking. I haven't spent too much time doing the research, since I don't plan on going that crazy for several years.
My Gladiator is my daily also.
Deciding between long arm 4-link and triangulated is a choice that is highly personalized.
I mean, the number of factors driving the decision depends on what you want, what you need, and what you are willing to do in terms of work. There are other governances, but those considerations are standouts.
For me, I choose to keep the rear panhard bar. Because I will likely never attempt extreme obstacles that invite vehicle damage, so there's one point.
Next, I run RSE sliders. When I spoke with ARTEC, they could not guarantee that their triangulated rear would work with the RSE sliders.
I was comfortable with the degree of labor and difficulty I saw with the installation of many of the LA kits.
Foremost in my base requirements was a smooth highway ride since I have to drive 2-3 days just to get to places I like to wheel at, (KY to CO, UT, WY...)
Finally, and likely most significantly, I just like to modify and change up things, and I have thought about long arms ever since buying the JT.
So, those are some of my reasons. When you firm up what you are looking to do, you can best answer the question for yourself.
And
Having all these choices is a good thing! Suppose you owned a Grenadier? Aside from fabbing up something totally custom, what choices do you have??? We are lucky (Smart??) for having chosen a Jeep!
 

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Deciding between long arm 4-link and triangulated is a choice that is highly personalized.
I mean, the number of factors driving the decision depends on what you want, what you need, and what you are willing to do in terms of work. There are other governances, but those considerations are standouts.
For me, I choose to keep the rear panhard bar. Because I will likely never attempt extreme obstacles that invite vehicle damage, so there's one point.
Next, I run RSE sliders. When I spoke with ARTEC, they could not guarantee that their triangulated rear would work with the RSE sliders.
I was comfortable with the degree of labor and difficulty I saw with the installation of many of the LA kits.
Foremost in my base requirements was a smooth highway ride since I have to drive 2-3 days just to get to places I like to wheel at, (KY to CO, UT, WY...)
Finally, and likely most significantly, I just like to modify and change up things, and I have thought about long arms ever since buying the JT.
So, those are some of my reasons. When you firm up what you are looking to do, you can best answer the question for yourself.
And
Having all these choices is a good thing! Suppose you owned a Grenadier? Aside from fabbing up something totally custom, what choices do you have??? We are lucky (Smart??) for having chosen a Jeep!
Thanks for that. I drive roughly 50 miles 4 days a week with mine. Not counting what I may do on the weekend. So keeping it hwy friendly is definitely important. That's part of why I haven't lifted it yet. That and the price of 37s vs 35s or 33s is another. So far I've been around 18k or 20k miles per year. That eats up tires fast.
I'm also towing a 4000 pound cargo trailer several times a year. Usually for 3 or 4 hours each way to the dunes.
Lots to think think about when the time comes. I'll definitely be doing a deep dive when it gets closer. Not too worried about any work, other than welding to the center section of an axle. I can do just about anything else.

Choices are definitely good.
 

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Thanks for that. I drive roughly 50 miles 4 days a week with mine. Not counting what I may do on the weekend. So keeping it hwy friendly is definitely important. That's part of why I haven't lifted it yet. That and the price of 37s vs 35s or 33s is another. So far I've been around 18k or 20k miles per year. That eats up tires fast.
I'm also towing a 4000 pound cargo trailer several times a year. Usually for 3 or 4 hours each way to the dunes.
Lots to think think about when the time comes. I'll definitely be doing a deep dive when it gets closer. Not too worried about any work, other than welding to the center section of an axle. I can do just about anything else.
I completely get that.
My JT is a "Fun-times" vehicle. I still only have around 20Kish, but most of that is adventure. I do not DD it, just keep it parked and work on it. Heck, I haven't driven the thing since December when I started the supercharger mod. In the future, I want to drive it more, simply because it's fun.
I've always had another DD, so I can just take my time toying with the JT. The last time I screwed with the suspension, adding some spacers to the Clayton 3.5s, it got a bit giggly. My frau did not like it and stopped driving around with me on the rare occasions I took her out in it. That was the point where I decided to nail the suspension down once and for all.
Now, it's not quite done. The Falcon 3.3's are a poor match for the overland Clayton springs. Terraflex tunes their Falcons for their light springs. Having the Claytons forces me to go to the full soft setting most of the time, except when loaded up for a trip. So next, and what I think may be the final step, will be a set of Fox performance series 2.5" remote reservoir shocks. I was leaning to a full coilover setup, but with the 20k-30k rebuild interval, no thanks.
 

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I completely get that.
My JT is a "Fun-times" vehicle. I still only have around 20Kish, but most of that is adventure. I do not DD it, just keep it parked and work on it. Heck, I haven't driven the thing since December when I started the supercharger mod. In the future, I want to drive it more, simply because it's fun.
I've always had another DD, so I can just take my time toying with the JT. The last time I screwed with the suspension, adding some spacers to the Clayton 3.5s, it got a bit giggly. My frau did not like it and stopped driving around with me on the rare occasions I took her out in it. That was the point where I decided to nail the suspension down once and for all.
Now, it's not quite done. The Falcon 3.3's are a poor match for the overland Clayton springs. Terraflex tunes their Falcons for their light springs. Having the Claytons forces me to go to the full soft setting most of the time, except when loaded up for a trip. So next, and what I think may be the final step, will be a set of Fox performance series 2.5" remote reservoir shocks. I was leaning to a full coilover setup, but with the 20k-30k rebuild interval, no thanks.
I need a set of shocks soon ish, I'll just go middle of the road at best. Once I get it ready for retirement I was kinda leaning towards a set of Foxes from Accutune Offroad.
 
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OK time to finish this long arm conversion.

Today, with the driver's rear corner remaining undone and with the paint dry, the final bracket was bolted on.
The fish wire made this part of the task much easier. The wire is prebent to form "threads" that you screw the bolt into. Those windings hold the bolt securely and allow you to pull the nut plate through the frame into the backside of the hole you are addressing.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03631 (Medium)
 
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The various bolts, nut plates, and "fished" plates were all bolted in and torqued.
I had to make a clearance cut for the UCA bolt. I'll fashion an angle support to strengthen this area back to where it should be.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03632 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03633 (Medium)
 
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And then the control arms.

Note that I am retaining the excellent Terra Flex rear brackets, which completely fix the rear driveshaft angle, keeping it nearly aligned throughout the axle's up-down travel.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03635 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03636 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03637 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03638 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03639 (Medium)
 

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I cleaned everything up, waxed the backside of the wheels, then reinstalled them. Finally, I greased the new joints and called it a day.
Long arm suspension install is in the bag.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03642 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03643 (Medium)


Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03644 (Medium)


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Jeep Gladiator 2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build DSC03646 (Medium)
 

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ET on suspension flex test and full RIPP 'charger report?
 
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ET on suspension flex test and full RIPP 'charger report?
Coming right up!
Test drive tomorrow to determine if another alignment is needed.
Then off to find some slopes to flex it.
SC eval will be concurrent
 
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I forget, did you ever come to a conclusion on the SC noise?
A couple of rabbit holes here.
* Could just be normal
* There is some discussion about a mystery 3/4" spacer...???
* Fluid level thing. I checked and added a bit...
* I may have to just try it for a while and see what happens

I'm not letting any grass grow under my feet here. Already researching doing a Hemi swap myself. Suppose the SC is fine and only makes the "marbles in a tumbler" sound. Can I live with that? Can I trust driving across the country without fear of it grenading in the middle of Nebraska on I-80? That's really where I am on this. Had I known it would make this unusual sound, I would not have gone this route. Everything else I have done on this JT, including purchasing an AEV vs a stocker to start with, is way over the top. I am not going to settle for something that is questionable.
But is it questionable? Is it just perception amplification going on in my mind? I have even delayed the test drive because of overthinking this! Maybe it's the soldier in me. I like to know what I am facing, and this sound just presents as a mystery that not many talk about.
I guess I'll just have to get up off my butt and give it a try...
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