2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build

[Bandit’s Lair]

I think I'll install a virtual long arm which will save a lot of weight and save me from having to do all the work! ;-)

Virtual long arms, designed by AI, and 3D printed. Sounds like a WINNER!!!!

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[Stan H]

No, not printed. No physical arms at all! (Maxium weight savings), just virtual ones. Not sure how it will work, but worth a try! ;-)

Say Huh ? Mweh , yer axle may fall off.

 

[Flyin6]

Well, first REAL day of this long arm install. Up to this point, things were fairly easy, but no more!
This gives you an idea of the enormity of this current project:


Had to buy overload springs just to stash all that stuff in there! ;-)

 

[Flyin6]

This stuff is well built. I think Iron Rock is a little Gem of a company. They manufacture top-tier stuff and sell it at a fraction of the cost of the major manufacturers. This is the sort of company and folks I love to support.

The bracket in my hand is for the right front, the first area I am tackling.

After printing the instruction booklet (Only for the front) it was off to the races.

 

[Flyin6]

I am using the plasma torch to make the big cuts, then following with a cut-off wheel and finally a flap disc. I covered the expensive stuff with aluminum foil which will convert all the sparks into electricity that I'll use to power my house.

Part of the above statement is true...

 

[Flyin6]

The blue flame wrench makes for quick removal of things like those factory brackets. But I left plenty of metal so as not to accidentally cut the frame.

 

[Flyin6]

After A L O T of grinding, as in a couple of hours, I hit it with the flap wheel.

I elected to leave part of the weldment in place to avoid compromising the frame. There is something like 1/16th" of weld remaining. It smoothed out pretty flat, so I'm happy with that.

 

[Flyin6]

After that, the area was cleaned up with brake cleaner and painted with a durable semi-gloss Seymour enamel. If you haven't checked out Seymour paints, take a look. Their paint is super thick, dries pretty hard, comes in a large can, and is inexpensive. I buy the stuff in six-can cases and order it right from Seymour.

 

[Hootbro]

Well, your committed now.

 

[Flyin6]

Another day and one corner is about finished.

I had to remove this shield, which protects the fuel tank connections. It had a small stud which I had to grind flat. I hit it with paint afterward

 

[Flyin6]

Here's that bracket that will be bolted to the frame, passenger front corner

 

[Flyin6]

Bolting that in required the drilling of one 1/2" hole. Then fishing in the nut plates with a magnet was an exercise in gymnastics, but in the end, everything fell into place.

 

[Flyin6]

Here are the MetalCloak bushings that replace the stick units and allow for more angular deflection.

I tried as best as I could, and I just could not budge those stock bushings. There must be a special tool for this purpose, so I'll see if I can find it and get those bushings pressed in/out.
For now, the show must go on.

 

[Flyin6]

Next, I assembled the new (much) longer upper front control arms. Just look at the difference in length between the "stocker" and the Iron Rock arm.
One end has a rubber bushing, stock, I think, whereas the other end features a rebuildable spherical joint.

 

[Flyin6]

The threaded shaft on that end link must be 8"-10" long. I screwed it out to join with the upper axle mount, and there was still thread remaining more than 3" inside the arm!

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