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3.6L Pentastar V6 Engine Failure

jac04

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Goodwill repairs are a hard swing if you took it to anybody else besides where you bought it from.
Throw in big tires, a re-gear and DIY maintenance and it is even tougher.

I tried to get a goodwill repair on a Subaru. Had bought 5 of them from the same dealer, but never used them for service. All DIY maintenance done per schedules, all with receipts, including oil changes, air filters, spark plugs, coolant, brake fluid - the whole 9 yards. The dealership told me that if I had brought it to them for service then it would be a different story, but ...
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RobbertCole

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I hope everyone's experience with their Gladiator has been better than mine. I am looking for advice:

I have a 2020 Jeep Gladiator with a 6-1/2" Lift 40" Tires and re-geared to 5:13. I had my check engine light come on at 61,500 miles. I took it in and had 3 spark plugs replaced, oil changed, and some new tires. 3 days later the light is back, this time I took it to the Jeep Dealership and low and behold I need a new engine. I have personally bought 3 consecutive Jeep / Chrysler products and my family has bought quite a few. I tried working with customer service on a warranty claim but they claim poor maintenance. I provided receipts and bank statements backing up my oil change history. I even let them know that I was willing to work on a split bill. The customer "Care Team" has been anything but that. Never once did they return a call or email. I had to initiate everything.

There are also a litany of other issues:
*Dash lights stay on when doors are off
*I have replaced the Aux Battery Twice Already
*The backup camera also quit working.

I guess being a loyal customer doesn't pay off anymore.

***Buyer Beware on the 3.6L Pentastar V6 Engine****

The internet calls it the "Sludge Brick", I am inclined to believe them.

Yours Truly
Once Loyal Jeep Owner
well...i can solve your backup camera issue.

open the access panel on the tailgate and unplug it, blow out any debris, and re-plug it in.

They come loose some times.
 
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golfman1982

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Any chance you can get a second opinion? I’m probably missing something, but if it’s running and only a check engine light is on there might be cheaper ways to address. “New engine “ is not really a final answer unless it’s seized or something totally not repairable.

The other stuff you mentioned sound electrical in nature, dash lights and backup camera could be related to a performance chip…do you run a tazer or similar product?

Hopefully when you changed the aux battery, you also change the main, as this is a running debate here, But it worked for me.

Post purchase service is already a bitch with any Jeep, I can’t even imagine now with this! Best of luck ?
@Jackpaul thanks for the feedback, yes I changed both batteries. The engine has been disassembled and is full of sludge.
 

Minty JL

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PyrPatriot

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What oil were you running?
Change frequency?
I second that. Pics would be helpful if the mechanic bothered to take some. If someone said to me "engine is full of sludge", I would want to see it.

Silver lining: enough people do Hemi swaps that I find engine/axle combos for $4-6k on FB marketplace regularly.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Lift does note affect warranty of engine and transmission. Yes, I was 1,500 outside of warranty but manufacturer's typically will assist on a good faith basis.
Sorry but it's hard to see any logic or thought in what you post because you have bad luck once, the whole line sucks?
We've had many Jeeps and many with the 3.6 and no issues that weren't PCM or software related.
No a lift shouldn't impact warranty of engine - but mods can be a clue as to how it was used, what it was used for and other things - it's a clue, an indicator.
And you leave much out - like how did you use it, frequency of the oil changes, air filter changes, what oil did you use, and more. Did you follow the book? Or did you believe internet claims of better oil and longer intervals?
Sludge says something about how it was driven, how it was used, the oil and/or maintenance. If there was "glitter" and valve train ticking, that's different -but sludge???
I have my questions about this one. The only engines I've seen "sludge" in were not the automaker's fault. Sludge is sludge.

One bad engine doesn't make the whole line crap.

well...i can solve your backup camera issue.

open the access panel on the tailgate and unplug it, blow out any debris, and re-plug it in.

They come loose some times.
Or - the connection at the bottom of the bed where the wire exits the bed floor and heads to the tailgate. That fixed mine. All I did was pull and push and wiggle it. Things have worked for over 2 months since.

*I have replaced the Aux Battery Twice Already
And just why did you do that? What about the main battery? Did you believe the internet crap talk or did you do any diagnosing?
What was going on that caused a battery swap? Hopefully not because the internet told you it was the aux battery each time. Bunk.
A 2020 would likely need both batteries by this time - not the aux twice. And if it's frequent SHORT DRIVES, that would explain a lot of stuff.

IMO - there's a lot more to this story.

Looking to the internet - that's like visiting a hospital and seeing the human race is all full of cancer and dying. Of course that's what you see when you go looking on the internet for troubles - you see troubles. The internet is a huge support group for anyone with a problem.
 

Minty JL

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I guess when I do my LS swap I should keep my 3.6 to sell in the Marketplace.

I did my first oil change @ 1800 miles. I'm going to do another one this weekend, at 5500 miles now.

I normally throw about 6-8oz of Seafoam in the oil about 50-100 miles before the oil change to clean things up and prevent sludge.
 

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be77solo

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I guess when I do my LS swap I should keep my 3.6 to sell in the Marketplace.

I did my first oil change @ 1800 miles. I'm going to do another one this weekend, at 5500 miles now.

I normally throw about 6-8oz of Seafoam in the oil about 50-100 miles before the oil change to clean things up and prevent sludge.
Hey, so "slightly off topic" but if I was OP and he is legit going to have to buy a new 3.6, I'd personally put my money elsewhere at this point.....

How does the LS swap compare to the FCA hemi swaps? Seems those would end up cleaner in the end but I have nothing to base that on other than it's the same computer/brand. Is there a legit LS option? Apologies, I did see that video link but can't watch where I'm at currently. I love an LS.

Thanks!
 

Minty JL

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Hey, so "slightly off topic" but if I was OP and he is legit going to have to buy a new 3.6, I'd personally put my money elsewhere at this point.....

How does the LS swap compare to the FCA hemi swaps? Seems those would end up cleaner in the end but I have nothing to base that on other than it's the same computer/brand. Is there a legit LS option? Apologies, I did see that video link but can't watch where I'm at currently. I love an LS.

Thanks!
1) Cheaper build cost
2) LS engine is a much smaller package
3) bulletproof reliability
4) LS > Hemi

Here a YT video from the owner of Bruiser Conversions:
 

Jteakus

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Perfect time for an LS Swap! :like:
 

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Lift does note affect warranty of engine and transmission. Yes, I was 1,500 outside of warranty but manufacturer's typically will assist on a good faith basis.
probably not inclined to on a highly modified off road vehicle.
 
 







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