oldhp3
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- Jun 25, 2020
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- Southern Illinois
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- 2021 Galdiator 80th Anniversary
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Anybody running 5W30 synthetic oil???
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Nice! So, turn off start/stop, and the oil is a trade-off.This post was on Bob Is The Oil Guy. Thought you all would like to read it.
Nice! As an former Pentastar design engineer I am slightly bias but the engine is really high quality. Few points from the development using tens of millions of dollars in analysis and testing regarding the oil and durability..... The lighter oil was chosen mostly for fuel economy BUT engineering is the science of compromise. You help one thing but hurt another. A thicker oil will reduce timing chain and tensioner wear because the center timing chain idler doesn't go fully hydrodynamic till about 1650rpm on 5w-20. So, a thicker oil will lower that number slightly and with general loads/speeds the engine spends a lot of time around 1500-1750 rpm with the 8 speed. So thicker oil is a win there. Additionally, the earlier engines had what was called the "McDonald's Arches" in the idler bearing which was intended in making a more uniform distribution but in actuality acted as a knife edge. This design was changed around 2014 to a smooth bearing. So overall timing chain issues will likely follow the 2011-2014 engine years more than 2014+. Where you lose.... The head is very complicated with a Type II valve train. Meaning lots of things to pressurize and pump up at start up. A thicker oil didn't do so well here (on long sit times +cold start) and contributed to a overall increased engine wear especially in the head and cam bearings. Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact. Cheers! Kevin PS. Turn off stop start and do not run e85 if you are concerned about engine wear. Eats the engine alive.
In Bob The Oil Guy's post, what does "WOT" mean?This post was on Bob Is The Oil Guy. Thought you all would like to read it.
Nice! As an former Pentastar design engineer I am slightly bias but the engine is really high quality. Few points from the development using tens of millions of dollars in analysis and testing regarding the oil and durability..... The lighter oil was chosen mostly for fuel economy BUT engineering is the science of compromise. You help one thing but hurt another. A thicker oil will reduce timing chain and tensioner wear because the center timing chain idler doesn't go fully hydrodynamic till about 1650rpm on 5w-20. So, a thicker oil will lower that number slightly and with general loads/speeds the engine spends a lot of time around 1500-1750 rpm with the 8 speed. So thicker oil is a win there. Additionally, the earlier engines had what was called the "McDonald's Arches" in the idler bearing which was intended in making a more uniform distribution but in actuality acted as a knife edge. This design was changed around 2014 to a smooth bearing. So overall timing chain issues will likely follow the 2011-2014 engine years more than 2014+. Where you lose.... The head is very complicated with a Type II valve train. Meaning lots of things to pressurize and pump up at start up. A thicker oil didn't do so well here (on long sit times +cold start) and contributed to a overall increased engine wear especially in the head and cam bearings. Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact. Cheers! Kevin PS. Turn off stop start and do not run e85 if you are concerned about engine wear. Eats the engine alive.
Wide Open ThrottleIn Bob The Oil Guy's post, what does "WOT" mean?
This post was on Bob Is The Oil Guy. Thought you all would like to read it.
Nice! As an former Pentastar design engineer I am slightly bias but the engine is really high quality. Few points from the development using tens of millions of dollars in analysis and testing regarding the oil and durability..... The lighter oil was chosen mostly for fuel economy BUT engineering is the science of compromise. You help one thing but hurt another. A thicker oil will reduce timing chain and tensioner wear because the center timing chain idler doesn't go fully hydrodynamic till about 1650rpm on 5w-20. So, a thicker oil will lower that number slightly and with general loads/speeds the engine spends a lot of time around 1500-1750 rpm with the 8 speed. So thicker oil is a win there. Additionally, the earlier engines had what was called the "McDonald's Arches" in the idler bearing which was intended in making a more uniform distribution but in actuality acted as a knife edge. This design was changed around 2014 to a smooth bearing. So overall timing chain issues will likely follow the 2011-2014 engine years more than 2014+. Where you lose.... The head is very complicated with a Type II valve train. Meaning lots of things to pressurize and pump up at start up. A thicker oil didn't do so well here (on long sit times +cold start) and contributed to a overall increased engine wear especially in the head and cam bearings. Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact. Cheers! Kevin PS. Turn off stop start and do not run e85 if you are concerned about engine wear. Eats the engine alive.
I can't believe how this thing seems to enjoy the high RPM. I was behind a loafer on a back road today and like I always do, got impatient, waited for a clear spot (wasn't a long one but long enough) hit the gas and holy cow, hold on to your coffee! It set me back, I went from 35 to 80 in a time a muscle car owner would be proud of.Nice. I WOT mine fairly regularly and the first thing I do when I start it is turn off auto start stop.
This post was on Bob Is The Oil Guy. Thought you all would like to read it.
Nice! As an former Pentastar design engineer I am slightly bias but the engine is really high quality. Few points from the development using tens of millions of dollars in analysis and testing regarding the oil and durability..... The lighter oil was chosen mostly for fuel economy BUT engineering is the science of compromise. You help one thing but hurt another. A thicker oil will reduce timing chain and tensioner wear because the center timing chain idler doesn't go fully hydrodynamic till about 1650rpm on 5w-20. So, a thicker oil will lower that number slightly and with general loads/speeds the engine spends a lot of time around 1500-1750 rpm with the 8 speed. So thicker oil is a win there. Additionally, the earlier engines had what was called the "McDonald's Arches" in the idler bearing which was intended in making a more uniform distribution but in actuality acted as a knife edge. This design was changed around 2014 to a smooth bearing. So overall timing chain issues will likely follow the 2011-2014 engine years more than 2014+. Where you lose.... The head is very complicated with a Type II valve train. Meaning lots of things to pressurize and pump up at start up. A thicker oil didn't do so well here (on long sit times +cold start) and contributed to a overall increased engine wear especially in the head and cam bearings. Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact. Cheers! Kevin PS. Turn off stop start and do not run e85 if you are concerned about engine wear. Eats the engine alive.
it does pretty well, but the 3.6l/8 speed in my 2017 Canyon ripped in comparison. They felt about the same in normal driving, but it was a completely different animal over 4K rpm. It also had 308 hp and was roughly 400 lbs lighter so it makes sense.I can't believe how this thing seems to enjoy the high RPM. I was behind a loafer on a back road today and like I always do, got impatient, waited for a clear spot (wasn't a long one but long enough) hit the gas and holy cow, hold on to your coffee! It set me back, I went from 35 to 80 in a time a muscle car owner would be proud of.
And around here if you want to merge onto the interstate, or even exit, because we have what I call figure-8 exit ramps (those entering cross those exiting) you must be ready to nail it or get run off the road. Our exit and entrance ramps suck. You are safer at the county fair figure 8 race track.
They likely start high to push oil up to the top end, the followers or rockers and other parts, then once there's oil there, they drop it to a much more reasonable level.A 830HP race engine is not going to have the same internal clearances of a street engine and most likely a dry sump oil system to specially lube certain parts of the engine. Oil that's 265° is thin enough not to drag going thru bearings, even 15W50. So to me you can't compare a race engine to a street engine. Like he says a 5W20 engine will run fine on 5W30. Will there be more heat? Maybe..... I ran 5W30 in my RAM 1500 3.6/auto and oil temp showed no difference than when it had 5W20 in it. It was quieter for sure. MPG stayed the same. IDK, I was just asking if anybody was running 5W30. Why does the Gladiator oil pressure hardly go up or down? At start up it goes high, then down to 30PSI. If I'm under 3000RPM it never gets higher then 31PSI. Over 3000RPM, BAM!!!! 70/80/90 PSI. Which I know is the 2nd stage pump coming in. But there is no change from idle to 2999RPM at all. IDK............Keep On Jeepin'
Sometimes referred to as the "Italian tune-up".Wide Open Throttle
I have to agree, it seems to keep my Gas mileage in check if I go ahead and accelerate quickly up to speed rather than take off slow and slowly get up to speed. I've noticed it drop from 18.2-18.1 and take a little bit to get back to positive MPGs after I granny it up to speed. Getting to speed quickly, it will drop the same but will start gaining positive MPGs a lot quicker. It's crazy to me but I guess that's how they built the engine.I can't believe how this thing seems to enjoy the high RPM. I was behind a loafer on a back road today and like I always do, got impatient, waited for a clear spot (wasn't a long one but long enough) hit the gas and holy cow, hold on to your coffee! It set me back, I went from 35 to 80 in a time a muscle car owner would be proud of.
And around here if you want to merge onto the interstate, or even exit, because we have what I call figure-8 exit ramps (those entering cross those exiting) you must be ready to nail it or get run off the road. Our exit and entrance ramps suck. You are safer at the county fair figure 8 race track.