Alignment sheet after Mojave AEV lift help

[sandifer]

For a 2 inch spacer lift you sure bought a lot of parts you didn't need.

I was just asking for constructive advice on the alignment and not your personal opinion on my purchases. FYI....I purchased the parts because I wanted to do EVERYTHING I could to keep a factory like and the best ride possible (stock geometry) while adding strength, flexibility and protection. I also added skids to control arms etc.....Didn't want to screw up a $80,000+ vehicle (with all the mods) over thousand bucks and I'm lucky enough to be able to afford it! Thank you to the guys who added useful information....still a little confused if I should have the caster adjusted or not?

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[sandifer]

The AEV brackets make the LCA's irrelevant, that's part of the recipe. Having the control arms parallel to the ground and each other allows for optimal suspension control, with stock length control arms. Adjustable arms were money spent for the benefit of the shop, not the owner of the Mojave.

That's a garbage alignment, full stop. With all that adjustability the dipshits dialed out the caster below factory specs.

5.5 deg caster is top of the spec, my JTR is at 5.9 after putting Mopar's 2" lift LCA's on. With the bad steering box, the wandering was a bear, and my suspension shop said caster was insufficient by design. Dialing a lot more caster in made it live-able until the steel box came out, and I see no reason to go with less after the fact.

What KurtP said.....I trust his opinion on this....

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...sel-lift-need-help-choosing.41580/post-678863

 

[Renegade]

I was just asking for constructive advice on the alignment and not your personal opinion on my purchases. FYI....I purchased the parts because I wanted to do EVERYTHING I could to keep a factory like and the best ride possible (stock geometry) while adding strength, flexibility and protection. I also added skids to control arms etc.....Didn't want to screw up a $80,000+ vehicle (with all the mods) over thousand bucks and I'm lucky enough to be able to afford it! Thank you to the guys who added useful information....still a little confused if I should have the caster adjusted or not?

What position are the square washers in? Can you post pictures of them?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I was just asking for constructive advice on the alignment and not your personal opinion on my purchases. FYI....I purchased the parts because I wanted to do EVERYTHING I could to keep a factory like and the best ride possible (stock geometry) while adding strength, flexibility and protection. I also added skids to control arms etc.....Didn't want to screw up a $80,000+ vehicle (with all the mods) over thousand bucks and I'm lucky enough to be able to afford it! Thank you to the guys who added useful information....still a little confused if I should have the caster adjusted or not?

Don't sweat the comments. IMO, it's better to lift AND maintain the parallelism of the control arms to the ground. If I were to do a 2" or higher lift, I'd also try to keep the control arms parallel to the ground and also keep the part of the arc they swing as vertical as possible.

 

[sandifer]

What position are the square washers in? Can you post pictures of them!

I'm not sure but I assume that the "square washer" are the bump stop extensions? I'm absolutely no mechanic..LOL ... It's rain/snowing here in Colorado Springs today but I'll get a picture posted tomorrow... Thanks so much for the help!!

 

[sandifer]

Don't sweat the comments. IMO, it's better to lift AND maintain the parallelism of the control arms to the ground. If I were to do a 2" or higher lift, I'd also try to keep the control arms parallel to the ground and also keep the part of the arc they swing as vertical as possible.

Thanks for your input ShadowsPapa......thats what I assumed but I don't have the mechanical experience/expertise like you do....I appreciate you input...

 

[Renegade]

It’s

I'm not sure but I assume that the "square washer" are the bump stop extensions? I'm absolutely no mechanic..LOL ... It's rain/snowing here in Colorado Springs today but I'll get a picture posted tomorrow... Thanks so much for the help!!

It’s where your upper control arms bolt into the frame/drop bracket. The installer or alignment tech may have rotated them incorrectly, or your control arms (if adjustable) may be measured wrong. Which arms are you running?

 

[sandifer]

It’s

It’s where your upper control arms bolt into the frame/drop bracket. The installer or alignment tech may have rotated them incorrectly, or your control arms (if adjustable) may be measured wrong. Which arms are you running?

Gotcha!!! I'll get a pic as soon as the weather breaks.....I have the Core4x4 adjustable control arms...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks for your input ShadowsPapa......thats what I assumed but I don't have the mechanical experience/expertise like you do....I appreciate you input...

I've done front ends and suspensions for decades - although this is my first Jeep with this suspension design, all concepts are the same. Keep things parallel, watch the part of the arc they swing in, and understand how a given change impacts the angles and geometry.
It's like lifting a SLA or independent front suspension car like the Eagle - except the control arms face the other way and impact camber instead of caster. My SX4 camber sucks because the fools that I bought the springs from made them wrong and lifted the car too much, the control arms are down too far........ it gets complicated..........

 

[Renegade]

Gotcha!!! I'll get a pic as soon as the weather breaks.....I have the Core4x4 adjustable control arms...

Measure the bolt-to-bolt length of your control arms while you’re under there. The stock front lowers are 24”. Measuring yours will tell us which direction they went when installing.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Measure the bolt-to-bolt length of your control arms while you’re under there. The stock front lowers are 24”. Measuring yours will tell us which direction they went when installing.

The control arm position is being moved with these, the length isn't changing. So I'm not sure how measuring and comparing length of the lower arm will tell much. They could be the same exact length but if the square washer pulls the upper arm back it would still set more caster than stock.
If the square washer is set so the hole is more forward, it moves the upper arm forward and takes caster away.

 

[Renegade]

The control arm position is being moved with these, the length isn't changing. So I'm not sure how measuring and comparing length of the lower arm will tell much. They could be the same exact length but if the square washer pulls the upper arm back it would still set more caster than stock.
If the square washer is set so the hole is more forward, it moves the upper arm forward and takes caster away.

Except that he has adjustable lower arms installed. If they weren’t set to the correct length...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Except that he has adjustable lower arms installed. If they weren’t set to the correct length...

I missed where it said adjustable lower arms.
If that's the case you are exactly spot-on, nailed it, bull's-eye, on-target, etc. etc. etc...............

 

[sandifer]

I missed where it said adjustable lower arms.
If that's the case you are exactly spot-on, nailed it, bull's-eye, on-target, etc. etc. etc...............

Thanks Renegade and ShadowsPapa for taking the time out of your day to answer my concerns. .. I'll get those pictures and measurements in the morning when the sun comes out..

 

[BBETTS1024]

Thanks Renegade and ShadowsPapa for taking the time out of your day to answer my concerns. .. I'll get those pictures and measurements in the morning when the sun comes out..

Could the shop had adjusted the control arms to whatever the manufacturer control arm lift/length grid stated without accounting for the changes with the GEO bracket? Like here's what I want installed and they just threw it on by the directions not accounting for the changes being made? Upload some photos of what your working with.

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