All about drag links...

[JulesAo]

So I had an inspection on my suspension, and the drag link is worn at both ends, and the trac bar has 'minimal play'. Everything else, including the tie rod, seems to be fine. Everything is OEM at this point, except for the end links, which are AEV (and I have a spare set I'm contemplating putting in because the bushings are going bad).

I'm prioritizing the drag link for now and am considering the Apex Chassis, Synergy Manufacturing 8800-01, and RPM.

I do go off-roading, but this is also my daily driver, so I want it to have good on-road manners as well as durability.

They all seem to be similarly priced, while the warranties differ a bit. I've also read that Apex and RPM require more maintenance with jam nut torque while the Synergy doesn't.

Anyone have insight/experience with any/all of these that can offer some recommendations?

Sponsored

 

[Gvsukids]

Anyone have insight/experience with any/all of these that can offer some recommendations?

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/best-tie-rod-drag-link.69316/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/steersmarts-vs-rpm-vs-apex-chasis.55781/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/tie-rod-drag-link-choice.64403/

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I have the Synergy. It works. I still check torque specs during my torque check on everything else.

 

[Gizmo]

Yes

 

[rharr]

It just comes down to what works for you. There are a few vendors that sell packaged deals aka draglink and tie rod set as a kit. If you are pulling the drag link, replace the tie rod as well since you are in there.

I to like the aluminum stuff, Cavfab makes a very nice product. Any of the 2 ton stuff is using rebranded ends that seem to be custom ends for jeeps and don't seem to have a cross reference to a OEM model, so be warned in 15 years when the world has moved on, it may be hard to find replacement 2 ton ends.

Here is mfr best i can tell for the 2 ton ends.
https://xrfchassisonline.com/xtj101...-tie-rod-end-for-jeep-gladiator-jt-2018-2024/
https://xrfchassisonline.com/xtj102...-tie-rod-end-for-jeep-gladiator-jt-2018-2024/
https://xrfchassisonline.com/xtj103...-tie-rod-end-for-jeep-gladiator-jt-2018-2024/
https://xrfchassisonline.com/xtj104p-left-outer-tie-rod-end-for-jeep-gladiator-jt-2018-2024/

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

SteerSmarts Yeti with Griffin Attenuator is *chef's kiss*

One of the few night and day mods I've ever made. The attenuator soaks up harsh feedback and makes it nearly non-existent.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I went down this rabbit hole then remembered I can replace all that crap with Mevotec or Mopar for 1/6 the price lol.

So, on 37's, haven't replaced anything yet, but when I do, it'll just be more stock stuff.

 

[JulesAo]

SteerSmarts Yeti with Griffin Attenuator is *chef's kiss*

One of the few night and day mods I've ever made. The attenuator soaks up harsh feedback and makes it nearly non-existent.

Man, this almost had me sold. I checked, and SteerSmarts says the attenuator has clearance issues with the skid plate on a Mojave. Dammit.

 

[ChrisNLA]

I went down this rabbit hole then remembered I can replace all that crap with Mevotec or Mopar for 1/6 the price lol.

So, on 37's, haven't replaced anything yet, but when I do, it'll just be more stock stuff.

As for tie rods (because I have been looking).

Mopar via Benny looked to be roughly $440 for a complete tie rod. That's not including shipping or any tax (if applicable). Not sure if someone else may be cheaper.

Edit: $480 to my door after using a forum discount for shipping.

$495 for a Yeti XD. No tax or shipping in that. So approaching $550 I would guess.

Edit: $525 to my door for Yeti XD.

Mevotech TTX (the 'nicest' Mevotech) is $300 to my door for an entire tie rod.

Now for draglinks, I am running a Metalcloak draglink as my OEM was rattling by 30K miles and causing mild death wobble. The ends were floppy and I could jiggly them easily by hand when I removed it.

That was on a stock truck on 33s.

So I figured a one ton tie rod would hopefully be better.

The factory tie rod is showing signs of weakness at 47K now. I haven't decided yet if I'm gonna spring for a one ton tie rod (Metalcloak won't work with stock wheels, so that's out) or try out Mevotech or something along those lines. A stock replacement.

 

[BourbonRunner]

SteerSmarts Yeti with Griffin Attenuator is *chef's kiss*

One of the few night and day mods I've ever made. The attenuator soaks up harsh feedback and makes it nearly non-existent.

I drooled over the the Griffin but it was a bit too much at the time given I was dropping a big chunk to get the death wobble sorted at the same time within a week or so of buying the truck.

OP, I did the Yeti XD drags, the Yeti adjustable front track bar, the Mopar adjustable LCA, and a Falcon Nexus 2.1 steering stabilizer. It has great on-road manners for a daily. That said If I had it to do all over and more money I'd have done the Griffin.

 

[JulesAo]

I drooled over the the Griffin but it was a bit too much at the time given I was dropping a big chunk to get the death wobble sorted at the same time within a week or so of buying the truck.

OP, I did the Yeti XD drags, the Yeti adjustable front track bar, the Mopar adjustable LCA, and a Falcon Nexus 2.1 steering stabilizer. It has great on-road manners for a daily. That said If I had it to do all over and more money I'd have done the Griffin.

I want to do the Griffin, and it can be added later, but I have a Mojave and SS told me that it doesn't quite fit with the skid plate (which protects the Fox remote reservoir). I'd have to take off the skid plate and grind it.

 

[BourbonRunner]

I want to do the Griffin, and it can be added later, but I have a Mojave and SS told me that it doesn't quite fit with the skid plate (which protects the Fox remote reservoir). I'd have to take off the skid plate and grind it.

I was unaware of that at the time I did mine. I seem to recall it being out of stock and I needed the repair done ASAP.

That said, the reservoir is pretty far removed from the steering components. I say send it.

 

[JulesAo]

I was unaware of that at the time I did mine. I seem to recall it being out of stock and I needed the repair done ASAP.

That said, the reservoir is pretty far removed from the steering components. I say send it.

Send it? You mean buy the one with the attenuator and hope it fits?

 

[JulesAo]

I was unaware of that at the time I did mine. I seem to recall it being out of stock and I needed the repair done ASAP.

That said, the reservoir is pretty far removed from the steering components. I say send it.

Also, Steersmart told me you can add the Griffin attenuator after the fact. You can buy it an install it.

 

[rbroncotx]

So I had an inspection on my suspension, and the drag link is worn at both ends, and the trac bar has 'minimal play'. Everything else, including the tie rod, seems to be fine. Everything is OEM at this point, except for the end links, which are AEV (and I have a spare set I'm contemplating putting in because the bushings are going bad).

I'm prioritizing the drag link for now and am considering the Apex Chassis, Synergy Manufacturing 8800-01, and RPM.

I do go off-roading, but this is also my daily driver, so I want it to have good on-road manners as well as durability.

They all seem to be similarly priced, while the warranties differ a bit. I've also read that Apex and RPM require more maintenance with jam nut torque while the Synergy doesn't.

Anyone have insight/experience with any/all of these that can offer some recommendations?

Synergy's the move here. Low maintenance and doesn't require jam nut checks. Worth the peace of mind for a DD/trail rig.

Sponsored