Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[fourfa]

Where are the other ends then? I haven’t found them in my poking around. But I haven’t fully disassembled the upstairs harnesses either…

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[mquetel]

Awesome, thanks for the detailed reply. I just ordered the tripod adapter, that would be very useful especially since I am a pro photographer and have a few tripods lying around. Would make a lot fo sense to get it off the ground when its wet or snow's on the ground. Plus being able to use a Ram mount to clamp it to various parts of the rack or camper would be beneficial.

When you finish up the wiring and are happy with it, please post photos. Thanks!

Here is what I went with for a weatherproof bulkhead fitting, it's called a SmartPlug data port. This fitting uses office/server rack keystone modules so you can equip it with the connection types relevant to your application. In my case I took a keystone blank and mounted a 5.5 x 2.1 female barrel connector to act as the 36V connection point for my starlink mini. The other spot has an Anderson Powerpole that is used to plug in a 180W solar suitcase. When the lid is closed, this provides a very weatherproof pass thru. At camp, the cover can be lowered to create a reasonable rain/snow hood.

I can't say that I'm very fond of barrel connectors, but in this application it offered 2 advantages: 1) The ability to use the starlink power cord as supplied, which creates a weather proof connection to the dish and 2) This is the only thing on my rig that uses a barrel connector, so my wife won't inadvertently plug some valuable consumer electronics into a jack that supplies 36V.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it, 7/10. The downsides are that the keystones had some wiggle when mounted. I don't know if this is smart plug's issue or the keystones I supplied or just a reality of a modular system. I didn't like it and ended up hot glueing the keystones from behind. So now they aren't so modular... but that's OK I am not planning to make any changes there. The second thing I didn't like was some obnoxious (to me) branding on the cover of the smart plug. Spray paint for the win there.

Note that the problem I was solving was having a weatherproof connector for items that I field deploy at camp... not trying to solve weatherproof connections for permanent, roof mounted hardware.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the dish uses a tripod adapter (no affiliation) so that I can mount on the camper roof via RAM ball mount and short arm, or a tripod if I need to get the dish into clear view and I parked in the trees.

 

[Steven_B]

Here is what I went with for a weatherproof bulkhead fitting, it's called a SmartPlug data port. This fitting uses office/server rack keystone modules so you can equip it with the connection types relevant to your application. In my case I took a keystone blank and mounted a 5.5 x 2.1 female barrel connector to act as the 36V connection point for my starlink mini. The other spot has an Anderson Powerpole that is used to plug in a 180W solar suitcase. When the lid is closed, this provides a very weatherproof pass thru. At camp, the cover can be lowered to create a reasonable rain/snow hood.

I can't say that I'm very fond of barrel connectors, but in this application it offered 2 advantages: 1) The ability to use the starlink power cord as supplied, which creates a weather proof connection to the dish and 2) This is the only thing on my rig that uses a barrel connector, so my wife won't inadvertently plug some valuable consumer electronics into a jack that supplies 36V.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it, 7/10. The downsides are that the keystones had some wiggle when mounted. I don't know if this is smart plug's issue or the keystones I supplied or just a reality of a modular system. I didn't like it and ended up hot glueing the keystones from behind. So now they aren't so modular... but that's OK I am not planning to make any changes there. The second thing I didn't like was some obnoxious (to me) branding on the cover of the smart plug. Spray paint for the win there.

Note that the problem I was solving was having a weatherproof connector for items that I field deploy at camp... not trying to solve weatherproof connections for permanent, roof mounted hardware.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the dish uses a tripod adapter (no affiliation) so that I can mount on the camper roof via RAM ball mount and short arm, or a tripod if I need to get the dish into clear view and I parked in the trees.

Awesome, thanks again.

 

[FatBaldandWheeling]

Hey all! I thought my stiff Bilstein shocks and dual rate Teraflex springs were gonna cut it, but I am getting some bounce on highways with concrete padding and I have an inch of sag. So I am looking at some Dobinson coils.

Question for you all: They offer two different springs for a 3" lift rated at 440-660 lbs of load OR 880-1210 lbs of load. I think the way mine was kitted out it will be in the range of the former, but there is still room to add (lighter accessories) the heaviest being a smaller water tank that is going to sit against the bed itself.

I worry about being too springy on the backend when overlanding or rocklanding. Should I stay with the conservative load rating or go higher for buffer?

 

[fourfa]

If you want 2” lift, go lower. If you want 3” lift go higher. I doubt there’s ever been an actual, on-the-trail, lived-in ACCC that would come in under 660 lbs

 

[cug]

I worry about being too springy on the backend when overlanding or rocklanding. Should I stay with the conservative load rating or go higher for buffer?

If you get roll or springiness, check htat your shocks are handling the weight. Our stock shocks were giving us significant roll and spongy hanlding, the Teraflex Falcon II are much better, even in the relatively soft setting we prefer. Their fast compression damping is a bit harsh, but they handle larger and slower bumps pretty darn well. Not as well as an OME BP51 setup, which is better on shaop bumps and just in general is a more comfortable setup, even though it has to deal with Land Cruiser 79 rear leaf springs and a higher overall weight compared to the Gladiator.

On the Gladiator I have the Teraflex HD springs with 3" lift for the Diesel. Teraflex told me this:

"I would check out our recently released Outback HD coil springs. We've designed them to carry extra payload, and to reduce sagging with extra weight. We rate them at their lift height at 400-500 pounds over factory rate, so they're true to their rating as well. "

I'd say that's about right. They do carry the weight a bit better than the stock springs, but they aren't fully keeping the same leveling as a Gladiator without anything. I'd say, slightly stiffer rear springs would be a bit better.

This is our Gladiator, about as heavy as it gets in the rear:

It sagged a bit more in the rear compared to the front with the full loadout, but it's not unreasonable. It still handles fine with the Falcon II shocks in relatively soft settings.

This is with the Canopy Camper, awning, shower cube, full tank of water (let's say 4/5th full tank), full furniture build (see photos below), a rear seat conversion with one full Zarges, two full FrontRunner Wolfpack, two full Wolf Cubs, full fridge, recovery gear, tools, Maxtrax on top and so on.

When the ground is a bit uneven, the flex can make it look really back heavy though:

It looks much worse than it is as can be seen in the first photo.

Rear build out:

In the parking lot photo the Rotopax were empty though.

The interior is a little less weight than a full Goose Gear buildout (for all intents and purposes it's about the same, since the difference to what they quoted me as weight are maybe 20lbs or so), but the photos abovce are WITH all our stuff in there as well.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Hey all! I thought my stiff Bilstein shocks and dual rate Teraflex springs were gonna cut it, but I am getting some bounce on highways with concrete padding and I have an inch of sag. So I am looking at some Dobinson coils.

Question for you all: They offer two different springs for a 3" lift rated at 440-660 lbs of load OR 880-1210 lbs of load. I think the way mine was kitted out it will be in the range of the former, but there is still room to add (lighter accessories) the heaviest being a smaller water tank that is going to sit against the bed itself.

I worry about being too springy on the backend when overlanding or rocklanding. Should I stay with the conservative load rating or go higher for buffer?

This is what I have for the springs and shocks. I love the stance and feel that it rides great. I rarely get the bounce anymore, only randomly on certain concrete highways (not sure why). For weight, The last time i went out I took a lot of water because I was testing my new bulkhead water tank. I had at least 11 gallons in the Alu-Cab tank and 8 gallons on the other side of the bulkhead. I also had a 2 gallon Rotopax full of water on te main back corner, 3 gal full RotopaX on the rear and propane. Plus all the gear I took with me to setting up at a show (two tables, parts, etc.) I drove great!

I have Fox 2.5 shocks and Dobinson HD springs. I have 3" springs in front, 2" in rear. When we put the new ModCAP camper on I measured a 3/4" drop with the camper. On the previous canopy camper I never really noticed much sag, so I was pretty happy with this setup. I like the stance, I would not want to go taller. I am on 35s. The AEV lift is too tall for me.

Springs are:
C29-228V for front
C29-245V for rear

 

[Steven_B]

Did anyone get out this past weekend?

I met up with my father and sister and we explored areas near the Olympic National Park that we had never explored before.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Test fitting our prototype aluminum fuel tank to fit in the bulkhead area between the cab and Alu-Cab camper. Approx 10 gallons. We are making a few tweaks for the final version and I need to make the mounting brackets. What do you think?? Not sure on pricing yet but will know more soon. Should hold gas or diesel.

 

[cug]

That's pretty neat.

That would give us just over 1000km (620 miles) realistic range when traveling. We've been consistenly getting around 22.6mpg over the last 6000 miles on our current trip with the EcoDiesel, fully loaded with camper (fully furnished), water, etc.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

That's pretty neat.

That would give us just over 1000km (620 miles) realistic range when traveling. We've been consistenly getting around 22.6mpg over the last 6000 miles on our current trip with the EcoDiesel, fully loaded with camper (fully furnished), water, etc.

22.6 is pretty good fully loaded!

 

[cug]

22.6 is pretty good fully loaded!

We're driving slow, taking our time. There is no hurry on a trip and we take a lot of slow roads ...

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Our new Rear Door Storage Trays are now available! I have shallow and deep versions. Made from 1/8" powder coated aluminum. The trays will fit on any section of the door. After looking at mine I think I will move my PACKOUT panel to the top left and add the trays to one of the lower sections. The pattern matches the Rear Door Accessory Panels that I have. The holes will hold up to an M8 bolt or an M6 or 1/4" rivnut

 

[Redruby]

That’s exactly what I was going to build, been thinking about making 2 storage tank with say 60% for fuel and 40% for water, with fuel inlet and outlet on the driver side and the water inlet and out let on the passenger side, please post up photos of final install and pricing

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

That’s exactly what I was going to build, been thinking about making 2 storage tank with say 60% for fuel and 40% for water, with fuel inlet and outlet on the driver side and the water inlet and out let on the passenger side, please post up photos of final install and pricing

I was going to make the prototype tank an 80/20 tank so I can have gas in the 80, diesel in the 20 for a heater setup I am working on. I decided to do a single at the moment since it will be the production tank.

I need to get opinions on the tank pricing. Since I am a small company, if I have 5-10 made, they are going to be approx $900-$1000. Expensive I know, but small runs make it more expensive.

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