Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[Free2roam]

I finally got the upTOP Overland Alpha (front half) installed. I only had to cut about two inches off of the two initial grooveTrek pieces. I still need to wire the lights, but otherwise it’s done. I added the 83L Roam case on top which I plan to put lightweight recovery gear that I will rarely access (soft shackles, straps, etc.) to keep weight down. Here are some pics.

How much did that cost you? Thinking of the same exact one. You can PM me the info if so inclined.

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[Blucid]

How much did that cost you? Thinking of the same exact one. You can PM me the info if so inclined.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...y-camper-roll-call.52174/page-33#post-1108401

He said 1200 for the entire roof rack.

 

[chorky]

Question for all of you running a fully outfitted setup for camping. I know weights have to be pushing close to 7,500 pounds - has anyone run across any reliability or axle, bearing failures?

 

[camodog]

Question for all of you running a fully outfitted setup for camping. I know weights have to be pushing close to 7,500 pounds - has anyone run across any reliability or axle, bearing failures?

We’ve had ours on for over 30k miles with plenty of off-roading and mild rock climbing on 37”s no issues here.

 

[camodog]

FYI- our camper is officially for sale in the classifieds. Send me a DM if interested.

We are sad to see it go, but know it will continue to bring joy to its future owner on their adventures.

 

[HooliganActual]

Question for all of you running a fully outfitted setup for camping. I know weights have to be pushing close to 7,500 pounds - has anyone run across any reliability or axle, bearing failures?

I've got just under 30K on my rig with 37's and no drivetrain/suspension issues yet. But here's the thing, I've scaled my fully loaded rig (without me or the wife in it) and I was only about 200# over GVWR. I have been consciously making an effort to keep weight down (eliminating redundancy, lightwieghting, etc.) and am continuously looking to reduce weight where I can.

I think a useful build-out can still be had while not being 1000# overweight. I do a bit of ultralight backpacking and there's a few concepts from there that I apply:

1. Look for items with redundant uses; ex. I only carry 2 spoons (for me and the wife) no forks, knives or more than she and I can use at once.​

2. After each extended trip, I evaluate everything I didn't use during the trip and ask whether I really need to carry it.​

3. Spend the extra $$$ for lightweight gear; ex. all of my cookware is titanium backpacking gear or similar.​

​

Here's a few examples of current weight reducing things I'm looking at:
Shed weight in places that are obvious like tires and wheels. Now I haven't done extensive research on wheels, because they are expensive and not truly consumables, but my current wheels are within +/- 2# of what wheels that interest me weigh; so not much opportunity there. However, when it comes to tires I plan to make a big change there. I love my Toyo Open Country R/T's; I have them on all 3 of my Jeeps right now. Unfortunately, they weigh 78# each; so when they wear out, I am moving to BFG KO2's which are a respectable tire and weigh 13# less (total 65# less).

I'm also considering moving to and Antigravity battery for my starter battery as it weighs in the neighborhood of 40# less than the standard AGM.

I know this is way more than you asked for but I think that a well built rig can keep the weight down (even if not less than GVWR, certainly lighter than if attention wasn't paid to weight) and ultimately prolong the life of drivetrain/suspension components.

And to give a sense of my rig:

 

[fourfa]

Since we’re on the topic… I just installed a full lift kit (Clayton HD springs, MC arms and track bars, Teraflex rear sway bar kit) as obviously the stock suspension is nowhere near up to the task of carrying the ACCC empty, let alone with gear and occupants and build-out.

Total weight gain from the kit = 111 lbs. Shouldn’t be a surprise if you’ve handled these components going on and coming off, but boy it does add up. These parts alone take away about 1/8th of the approved payload. Something to consider for lightweight builds. Probably a point in favor of the Mopar kits tbh - fixed length relatively light arms and bars (then probably swap in a heavier spring that puts you at the same ride height). Still probably need to swap in a real shock, like a custom-valved Fox 2.0 adjustable

 

[chorky]

We’ve had ours on for over 30k miles with plenty of off-roading and mild rock climbing on 37”s no issues here.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not really looking for one for myself because I don't want to be that heavy or expensive - but was curious to hear if anyone who was had any pre-mature failures or worn components. I hope your sale goes well and your next adventure is great!

I've got just under 30K on my rig with 37's and no drivetrain/suspension issues yet. But here's the thing, I've scaled my fully loaded rig (without me or the wife in it) and I was only about 200# over GVWR. I have been consciously making an effort to keep weight down (eliminating redundancy, lightwieghting, etc.) and am continuously looking to reduce weight where I can.

I think a useful build-out can still be had while not being 1000# overweight. I do a bit of ultralight backpacking and there's a few concepts from there that I apply:

1. Look for items with redundant uses; ex. I only carry 2 spoons (for me and the wife) no forks, knives or more than she and I can use at once.​

2. After each extended trip, I evaluate everything I didn't use during the trip and ask whether I really need to carry it.​

3. Spend the extra $$$ for lightweight gear; ex. all of my cookware is titanium backpacking gear or similar.​

​

Here's a few examples of current weight reducing things I'm looking at:
Shed weight in places that are obvious like tires and wheels. Now I haven't done extensive research on wheels, because they are expensive and not truly consumables, but my current wheels are within +/- 2# of what wheels that interest me weigh; so not much opportunity there. However, when it comes to tires I plan to make a big change there. I love my Toyo Open Country R/T's; I have them on all 3 of my Jeeps right now. Unfortunately, they weigh 78# each; so when they wear out, I am moving to BFG KO2's which are a respectable tire and weigh 13# less (total 65# less).

I'm also considering moving to and Antigravity battery for my starter battery as it weighs in the neighborhood of 40# less than the standard AGM.

I know this is way more than you asked for but I think that a well built rig can keep the weight down (even if not less than GVWR, certainly lighter than if attention wasn't paid to weight) and ultimately prolong the life of drivetrain/suspension components.

And to give a sense of my rig:

FYI - Antigravity for your starter battery will not work and is a bad idea. More info here. Post numbers: 119 through 124 has good discussion on that. Lithium for 'house' batterys are cool for warmer climates, but they are not conducive for the main vehicle battery despite what they advertise. I cornered them directly via email and on the phone about that and they straight up said "it's not for a direct vehicle replacement"
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/2022-aev-gladiator-rubicon-build.67479/page-8


I have been camping and exploring for most of my life and certainly bring only what I 'need' (well for the most part except for a couple of comfort items. My needs are greater and greater the older and more broken I get though so there is that. In another 10 years I probably will resort to some type of A-frame camp trailer instead of the RTT since it's already difficult for me to get into, but significantly easier and faster than a ground tent.

But weights are a problem and I really dont think anybody is actually under GVWR, maybe GAWR. It's not even the food and utensils that is the main problem. They are a fraction of weight compared to recovery gear, fridge, etc... Currently, on my rig, I have a canopy, RTT, tire chains, fridge, fridge slide, genesis battery system, maybe 20 pounds of extra electrical wire, rear seat delete home made, couple of lights, cb/gmrs, and a few light weight random items under the rear passenger seat, oh and a small tool bag. CAT scale reads 5780. Without me in it, so it's already down to 310 pounds remaining once I climb in. And this does not include any recovery gear, no water, no food, no dog or girl (which I don't have anyway), or any clothes or sleeping gear.

I have made a spreadsheet and calculated and weighed most additional future items, including factory weighed specs (which are probably heavy as they consider shipping weights) and also factoring in weights of items removed (like factory battery, and rear seat), and for a 90% (still missing some items and extra fuel) full buildout (bumper, winch, recovery gear, tent, fridge, food/water, clothes, sleeping gear (for a 3 day trip) I am looking at a gross, with me, weight of 6,715 pounds - which is 134 pounds away from GAWR.

There is no possible way a couple, or a guy and a dog, or a couple with kids, is even remotely under GVWR unless they are eating backpacking food and using a backpacking ground tent, or don't have any recovery items or a winch, and not carrying any extra water/gas. It just does not add up. Matt from Ozark Overland Adventures did a small clip and weighed his truck with it ready to go (I think without food, water, and clothes though), and not him nor his wife in the truck, and he was 200 or 300 pounds over GVWR. Add himself, water and food and extra gas, and I bet he is over GAWR by at least a couple hundred pounds. I mean, even a bone stock JTR, with 4 people and nothing else is darn near GVWR.

It's kinda why I wanted to post the question here in the alu-cab thread to see who, if anyone, has had any pre-mature failures or wear - since those with the alu-cab are probably heavier than anybody else. I mean, I think all of us know that overloading is not really a great idea - but I don't see how anyone can not overload, especially those who are not single. I really love the small footprint of the RTT but now that I am seeing some real numbers it has me wondering how long I want to be so heavy. So if nobody seems to be having issues, then I wouldn't be concerned - but if a bunch of folks started hopping in saying how their axle bearings needed replacing at 20K miles, or their shock tower bracket broke off, then that would be a problem.

 

[fourfa]

I’m starting to work on making the ACCC pass-thru space between the cab and camper usable. Holy crap, they do go overboard on securing those cosmetic side panels. There are literally more bolts holding them in place (seven per side) than holding the actual camper. And cutting through the gobs and gobs of sikaflex until the panels actually come loose, was way more of a job than I expected.

Nothing more exciting to show yet, just the truck with the side panels removed. (Planning to use the space for traction boards, and a wag bag keeper as the lady has started insisting on packing out EVERYTHING on our trips.) I think it looks just fine without - I don’t get why they go to so much trouble to put these things on. My advice, if getting a new camper installed, try to insist that they skip the panel install. I tried, and the installer flat refused. Claimed they’re not allowed to deviate from the standard install by Alu-Cab. Who knows.

 

[Redruby]

I attached hinges to the panels so that they open complete. Having a custom gas tank built to fill in the space

 

[teamblkdog]

I really like the latch you used.

 

[Thebigboowah]

I attached hinges to the panels so that they open complete. Having a custom gas tank built to fill in the space

Is that a custom table to the left of that? If so, would love to see your build of that. We currently are using the lifetime folding table…and it will be the death of me. Need three hands to push nubs and pull legs.

 

[Redruby]

No table I’m building a custom gas tank to fit into that space

 

[fourfa]

 

[mquetel]

Looking for some advice on how people are maintaining their water tanks. The placement of the water tank outlet(s) mean that there is an inch or so of water left in the tank that can't be easily drained. Wondering how hard I should try to get this remaining water out. The tank is going to sit unused for maybe a month or so between trips.

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