Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[813 Fabrication & Design]

An FYI for people here:

I don't know if it's just our molle panels (doubt it), but the hole pattern around the larger holes isn't the same in all rows. The second row from the bottom, the lower holes have a different distance.

Just mentioning this as I'm in the process of designing mounting brackets that are supposed to go on these panels as well as on my own loadbar brackets. Now I have to repeat this insanity on my own brackets if I want the ability to mount to both ... argl.

These are the M8 T-Bolts I use in my Rhino tracks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B944XNBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, the MOLLE plate holes have an offset in the second from bottom row. I believe it has to do with some of their accessories, maybe the Jerry Can mount. I had to redesign my adapter plate after the first test once I noticed the difference.

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[cug]

These are the M8 T-Bolts I use in my Rhino tracks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B944XNBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ah, that's nice to know since it allows the use of nylock nuts as long as everything mounted to it fits with the height (or the bracket has a mounting flange for distance.

 

[caryt]

I'm using 80/20 roll-in t-nuts for M6 bolts in these cases when I can't easily get a M8 bolt to the place I want. That way, while I'm not using M8 bolts, I am flexible in where I put a t-nut without having to remove things. We also now have to do this in some areas, since the bolts that hold the outside tracks in place, end in the channels on t-nuts. Unless I want to take that bolt out and risk a water leak.

These are the ones I'm using: https://8020.net/13092.html

M6 stainless hardware is plenty strong for what I need. Our outside loadbars are mounted with them, the furniture is mounted to the side extrusion in some place with M8 in some with M6, the table is mounted to the door with M6. I'm either using threadlocker blue or nylock nuts with the hardware.

Great thanks just what I need.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Thoughts? Something new I have been working on this week. A simple solution to help carry extra fuel or water. The containers can be removed quickly to open the side doors. The mount does not cause any interference with the doors. I also have tracks on my back door so the mount can also be oriented horizontally. It can be mounted to any flush surface. The mount will be beefy, 4.7mm powder coated stainless steel. Available for Presale now if you are interested.

https://www.813fabrication.com/product-page/universal-container-mount

 

[cug]

Looks like an interesting option! It'll probably stay within the overall width (awning / shower tent, fenders) and it's forward of the rear axle which is always a benefit. A good option for those needing that additional kick. I might use that down the road if/when we plan trips with less frequent fuel options.

Probably be better than stacking containers on the rear door.

Question regarding the material thickness: do you think you need this thick/strong material? Is it because it has only one bolt per side? Or because it's basically flat material?

I'm planning on using 3.2mm aluminum for the rear door brackets to hold Rotopax (with two side bends to avoid flex). Am I underestimating forces here? I don't have much practical experience with the materials, I'm basically copying the Alu-Cab molle panels. So, just wondering.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Looks like an interesting option! It'll probably stay within the overall width (awning / shower tent, fenders) and it's forward of the rear axle which is always a benefit. A good option for those needing that additional kick. I might use that down the road if/when we plan trips with less frequent fuel options.

Probably be better than stacking containers on the rear door.

Question regarding the material thickness: do you think you need this thick/strong material? Is it because it has only one bolt per side? Or because it's basically flat material?

I'm planning on using 3.2mm aluminum for the rear door brackets to hold Rotopax (with two side bends to avoid flex). Am I underestimating forces here? I don't have much practical experience with the materials, I'm basically copying the Alu-Cab molle panels. So, just wondering.

Yes, even with the 3 gallon container is stays within the awning and fenders. For thickness, it has bends in it to raise up for the bolts. I typically make 95% of everything in 1/8" aluminum. But, with liquid weight and off-roading I am over-building it to be stupid strong just in case. The cost of material is much more to go a little thicker. For this mount I personally don't want aluminum due to the possibility of fatigue.

 

[caryt]

Still waiting hoping for mounts to hold 2ea 4 gal Rotor fuel containers between rear window and the Canopy camper..Hint.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Still waiting hoping for mounts to hold 2ea 4 gal Rotor fuel containers between rear window and the Canopy camper..Hint.

I am working on a custom aluminum idea. Since there is not a lower track to attach to it is very hard to anchor something well. I'm not sure there is enough clearance for two 4 gallon tanks .

 

[caryt]

Here is 1 of the tanks I have its 27" long and setting it inside there is still 33" left to put one in from the passenger side.

 

[cug]

For this mount I personally don't want aluminum due to the possibility of fatigue.

I can see the point. Based on that thought, I've modified my rear door bracket to have "more meat" around the various mounting holes, although I'll stay with 1/8" aluminium.

When I look at the chain of things bolted together:

1. Rotopax mount: 1.5mm steel
2. My mounting bracket: 3.2mm aluminium sheet metal
3. The Rhino-Rack load bars: 1.5 to 2mm thick aluminium extrusion (it differs depending on where in the bar)
4. The aluminium door panel sandwiched on top of aluminium extrusion (both not measured).

It somehow feels like I should make my mount weaker and have it break before it rips something out of the door ... ;-)

Current plan:

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Here is 1 of the tanks I have its 27" long and setting it inside there is still 33" left to put one in from the passenger side.

The problem with the larger 4Gal tank is the width. It is very close to the glass with a mount. Add a mount to hold it and it would push even further toward the glass.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

I can see the point. Based on that thought, I've modified my rear door bracket to have "more meat" around the various mounting holes, although I'll stay with 1/8" aluminium.

When I look at the chain of things bolted together:

1. Rotopax mount: 1.5mm steel
2. My mounting bracket: 3.2mm aluminium sheet metal
3. The Rhino-Rack load bars: 1.5 to 2mm thick aluminium extrusion (it differs depending on where in the bar)
4. The aluminium door panel sandwiched on top of aluminium extrusion (both not measured).

It somehow feels like I should make my mount weaker and have it break before it rips something out of the door ... ;-)

Current plan:

I think you will be fine. You drawing looks very similar to the panels I have on the door. With the two side flanges, it is a pretty strong panel.

 

[cug]

I think you will be fine. You drawing looks very similar to the panels I have on the door. With the two side flanges, it is a pretty strong panel.

That's what I figured. I'll be using M6 hardware as well, since the Rotopax will sit flat on top. Most of the time, the Rotopax will be empty, but there might be a time when I'll have two 2G Rotopax mounted. Not that this is anytime soon ... [dreaming of shipping the truck to Australia one day]

 

[cug]

Again, a question: can you step on top of the Canopy Camper? I'm in the process of installing solar and it would be helpful to know whether I can safely step on the roof (on the non-overhanging part).

 

[fourfa]

I did for my solar, but was careful to stay around the edges. It’s strong.

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