Am I trying to pull too much?

[Jeepin' On]

I just got a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon 4x4, 8-spd automatic with the 3.6L V6, that also has the Trailer Tow Package (Class IV Trailer Hitch and Heavy Duty Engine Cooling). I’m trying to pair this with a travel trailer and while I’ve done the math, I’m worried that I may be pushing the limits with my trailer choice. I would like others opinions/feedback.

The Jeep Gladiator towing specs show:

• Curb Weight -> 5,050
• GCWR -> 12,450
• Max Gross Trailer Weight -> 7,000
• Max Trailer Tongue Wt -> 700
• Payload Capacity -> 1,200

I’m looking at the Winnebago Micro Minnie or the Micro Minnie FLX. I’ll give the specifics for the FLX while the numbers are a tad more demanding.

• Dry Weight -> 4,330
• Dry Hitch Weight -> 462
• GVWR -> 5,500

Subtracting out the dry hitch weight, that means I can carry 738 pounds including passengers in the truck.

Again, it seems like I’m within the numbers, but I don’t know if I’m pushing the limits or not. I plan on getting WDH, Sway Controller and a Brake Controller.

What do you guys think? Am I pulling too much?

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[Ironman 67]

You should be fine, as long as you take your time.

 

[Kevin_D]

Don't forget that the, "Curb Weight," is typically dry weight, and also does not include any accessories you've added.
So be sure to figure in fuel and accessory weight.
Or take it to a local scale, with a full tank of fuel, and see what it really weighs!

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just got a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon 4x4, 8-spd automatic with the 3.6L V6, that also has the Trailer Tow Package (Class IV Trailer Hitch and Heavy Duty Engine Cooling). I’m trying to pair this with a travel trailer and while I’ve done the math, I’m worried that I may be pushing the limits with my trailer choice. I would like others opinions/feedback.

The Jeep Gladiator towing specs show:

• Curb Weight -> 5,050
• GCWR -> 12,450
• Max Gross Trailer Weight -> 7,000
• Max Trailer Tongue Wt -> 700
• Payload Capacity -> 1,200

I’m looking at the Winnebago Micro Minnie or the Micro Minnie FLX. I’ll give the specifics for the FLX while the numbers are a tad more demanding.

• Dry Weight -> 4,330
• Dry Hitch Weight -> 462
• GVWR -> 5,500

Subtracting out the dry hitch weight, that means I can carry 738 pounds including passengers in the truck.

Again, it seems like I’m within the numbers, but I don’t know if I’m pushing the limits or not. I plan on getting WDH, Sway Controller and a Brake Controller.

What do you guys think? Am I pulling too much?

I tow 5,000 pounds with 500 pound tongue weight behind an Overland with a tow rating of 6,000 pounds. The Rubicon is more towing capable.

Like Kevin said - the trailer weights are factory weights without options, no LP, water and so on.
figure closer to 500 pounds tongue weight - you will have stuff in the trailer.
Keep stuff inside the trailer low - don't stack weight high up in the trailer.
Still, with the rating of the Rubicon, should be fine.
Don't consider yourself a wanna-be NASCAR driver and you should be ok.

 

[bd100]

Expect to use the slow truck lane up steep mountains. But the engine and transmission should be fine. And as I've been mentioning recently, after break in switch the rear diff fluid to 75W140.

 

[BearFootSam]

I just got a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon 4x4, 8-spd automatic with the 3.6L V6, that also has the Trailer Tow Package (Class IV Trailer Hitch and Heavy Duty Engine Cooling). I’m trying to pair this with a travel trailer and while I’ve done the math, I’m worried that I may be pushing the limits with my trailer choice. I would like others opinions/feedback.

The Jeep Gladiator towing specs show:

• Curb Weight -> 5,050
• GCWR -> 12,450
• Max Gross Trailer Weight -> 7,000
• Max Trailer Tongue Wt -> 700
• Payload Capacity -> 1,200

I’m looking at the Winnebago Micro Minnie or the Micro Minnie FLX. I’ll give the specifics for the FLX while the numbers are a tad more demanding.

• Dry Weight -> 4,330
• Dry Hitch Weight -> 462
• GVWR -> 5,500

Subtracting out the dry hitch weight, that means I can carry 738 pounds including passengers in the truck.

Again, it seems like I’m within the numbers, but I don’t know if I’m pushing the limits or not. I plan on getting WDH, Sway Controller and a Brake Controller.

What do you guys think? Am I pulling too much?

Remember when you head out on a trip with the mini-winnie you'll want to be topped off with LP and H20 which are heavy of course. Bedding, food, yadda-yadda the trailer will be closer to GVWR than dry.

That said, you are a comfortable margin under the weight rating, but close enough that you should use a weight distributing hitch and brake controller. Personally, after towing bit I woud look into the spring helper air-bags. I found (Rubicon, two package) that when the truck gets too-much of a rearward weight bias the steering gets more vague and less tractable. My gut feeling is that the bags would make a difference.

The engine and transmission will be totally fine.

Pardon me if that's old hat, you never know how familiar folks are with towing and trailers.

 

[Jeepin' On]

Thanks for all the input and help! I'm not very familiar with towing and trailers. What little I've done, I've always had more tow capability in the tow vehicle.

 

[Fungi3]

I just got a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon 4x4, 8-spd automatic with the 3.6L V6, that also has the Trailer Tow Package (Class IV Trailer Hitch and Heavy Duty Engine Cooling). I’m trying to pair this with a travel trailer and while I’ve done the math, I’m worried that I may be pushing the limits with my trailer choice. I would like others opinions/feedback.

The Jeep Gladiator towing specs show:

• Curb Weight -> 5,050
• GCWR -> 12,450
• Max Gross Trailer Weight -> 7,000
• Max Trailer Tongue Wt -> 700
• Payload Capacity -> 1,200

I’m looking at the Winnebago Micro Minnie or the Micro Minnie FLX. I’ll give the specifics for the FLX while the numbers are a tad more demanding.

• Dry Weight -> 4,330
• Dry Hitch Weight -> 462
• GVWR -> 5,500

Subtracting out the dry hitch weight, that means I can carry 738 pounds including passengers in the truck.

Again, it seems like I’m within the numbers, but I don’t know if I’m pushing the limits or not. I plan on getting WDH, Sway Controller and a Brake Controller.

What do you guys think? Am I pulling too much?

My take - I treat towing conservatively. Here's why -

I tow travel trailers, fifth wheelers, vehicle trailers, boats, and work trailers. I used to work for GM (engineer and industrial designer). I've never had a problem with overloading, rear suspension sag, broken shocks, braking, powering up mountain roads, engine or trans problems for being underpowered, or extreme swaying. Only because I go by the manufacturer's designated requirements for my vehicle in regard to tongue weights, electric brake use, and full trailer weights.

Manufacturers do not do life testing of fully assembled vehicles using maximum trailer weight. They do very short testing and rely mostly on engineering estimates. The little testing they do is on level roads, not mountain roads or off road trails. I have always done well, because I always make sure I do not exceed more than 70% of required specs. That means I would not pull an unloaded 6500 LB travel trailer unless I had a vehicle rated around 9,500 LBS trailer weight rating. I try not to exceed 60%, but have gone as high as 70%.

If I am traveling more than 100 miles and no extreme mountains/hills to cross, I may use the 70% rule, but if I am traveling more than that and it could include numerous mountain roads, then I am using at least 50-60%.

Engineering of engines, transmissions, cooling systems, etc., used to be designed to take 100% above the vehicle specs. No more.

Today, many parts come from China, Taiwan, Mexico, Vietnam, Thailand, and Haiti, and the metals and heat treating methods have broader ranges, where a batch of parts might be capable of just 20% over spec. I'm not willing to gamble. Besides, when you have a 12,500 LB trailer rating and you're pulling a 6500 LB travel trailer there is no sag at all, no bogging down and downshifting constantly on hills, and you hardly even know you are pulling. Once you feel that, you will not want to overload your pulling capability again. The image you can do by overloading could take months or years to show itself, but it definitely over-stresses nearly everything.

Suggest buying a smaller/lighter single axle trailer.

 

[berb]

General rule when picking a camper to tow behind your truck is be 1,000 lbs. below your tow rating. That way you will never have to worry about being over. Capability of the truck and being legally liable are 2 different things. If your camper weighs more than your tow capabilities and you’re in an accident you are at fault and will definitely receive a citation. No matter if the accident is your fault or not. In addition insurance companies look for any reason not to pay out and being over your towing capacity is an easy way to do that.

 

[Jeepin' On]

Thanks Fungi3. I had thoughts about being more conservative, so you've definitely given me something to chew on.

If the trailer is loaded up to 5,500 lbs that means I'm at 78% my towing capacity. And that doesn't count the strain if I've maxed out the payload as well. Based on what you are saying, I should be looking at a trailer whose GVWR is closer to 4,900 lbs. Would you agree?

 

[KrashEd]

Thanks for all the input and help! I'm not very familiar with towing and trailers. What little I've done, I've always had more tow capability in the tow vehicle.

We towed a MM 2108FBS (5k GVWR, with weight distro hitch) with our JT for about 3500 miles a couple of summers ago. The JT pulled it fine and survived, but it wasnt always happy, that's for sure. The states that gave us the biggest issues/aggravations were in the midwest (i.e., Kansas) because of the headwind... in both directions. After getting back from our trip, I decided that I wasn't going to do that again, the Jeep was just about at its max with that setup . Disclamer though... we were running a MOPAR lift (w/air bags), 37s, and 5.38s. I added a supercharger to help make up for the power lost with the increased weight and added rolling resistance. When doing short hops around central PA, it was a lot more tolerable, but for long distance, we prefer our F150 Tremor.

 

[concretewolf]

Your good. Just keep it under 65.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Manufacturers do not do life testing of fully assembled vehicles using maximum trailer weight. They do very short testing and rely mostly on engineering estimates. The little testing they do is on level roads, not mountain roads or off road trails.

Except Ford got caught with pants down, cheating on the testing - in the SAE testing. They removed weight from the truck (I suppose hoping no one would notice).
A few people have caught testing being done on that run in the mountains so some do it. Depends on how far back you go. "Best of class" is a hot topic, like fastest or best gaming phone or computer, first to market with a claimed best of class wins. Cheating happens. (back to Ford again)
Jeeps have been seen out in the mountains being run through the tests - appears they actually do it. Most have agreed to abide by the rules, but......... how many have fingers crossed behind their backs while shaking hands with the other hand?

The story of the JT getting its ratings is quite interesting and does involve actual testing.

The states that gave us the biggest issues/aggravations were in the midwest (i.e., Kansas) because of the headwind..

That's a real issue - winds. Even not towing the mpg (and struggles to keep road speed in the hills) was very real when we drove back up from FL with our JLU. Normally 20+ but with the winds fighting us almost the whole way back it was more throttle to keep speed, and mpg dropped to low 16s.
We all know we are driving bricks on wheels with the main sail fully hoisted.

 

[aprez27]

I'm towing a 3500lb camper with a Sport S (Max Tow), and I'm not sure I'd want to tow much more than that. 35's and 4.56 gears.

 

[Fungi3]

Thanks Fungi3. I had thoughts about being more conservative, so you've definitely given me something to chew on.

If the trailer is loaded up to 5,500 lbs that means I'm at 78% my towing capacity. And that doesn't count the strain if I've maxed out the payload as well. Based on what you are saying, I should be looking at a trailer whose GVWR is closer to 4,900 lbs. Would you agree?

Yes. There are plenty of single axle trailers out there that should fit your needs. Some are pretty nice. It's a matter of beds and luxury vs weight. I get it.

The scenario you described should be ok. Just take it easy on take offs, cruising, and braking.

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