Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing.

[Madtom]

I'm curious about "A". The check valve/temp valve. Because someone has called it a temperature control valve. In that it doesn't open until a preset temp is reached. Can you take a couple more pictures of it from different angles?

thought the number on it was a part number but apparently is a description of the type of plastic it is made of. very little pressure required to get this to depress. I observed very little spring pressure on the valve. was able to press it in with just my finger tip.... that was why I was thinking it was a one-way valve vs a thermostat..

I wish we had a Motori engineer / mechanic as part of the group that could post some factory documents to set us all straight vs our reverse TN engineering lol....

I tried looking up documentation for the 630 series engines but the most luck I have had was related to their use as boat drives....and banks experience using the same block or a derivative in their 630T military engine blocks.

I'm sure that the basics are the same but all the stuff that mounts on the outside of the block will be a little different by design.

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[Vtur]

I'm curious on why the diesel utilized bypass valve at the filter. If it's safe to do so, can you push some zip ties through all those ports and take some pics inside the filter area and where it exits? This will help determining it function.

 

[Madtom]

I'm curious on why the diesel utilized bypass valve at the filter. If it's safe to do so, can you push some zip ties through all those ports and take some pics inside the filter area and where it exits? This will help determining it function.

valve at bottom of oil filter assy . The area is too tight to get zip-tie/wire thru but it goes to this port on the bottom

the black valve takes pressure to hold it down so oil filter being screwed down would hold this in place.

center line from filter top to where it mounts to engine

side outlet from filter assy to engine gasket area.

filter is securely fastened to the top .. seems like removal will destroy it.

 

[Vtur]

Yeah removing the filter will destroy it. The center port is the filtered oil. Port with the rod is dirty oil intake and the cast triangle port is the anti-drainback.

The bypass valve on top of the filter is to bypass the unfiltered oil for when the filter clogged up.

 

[NCJL]

I talked to Insane Diesel before purchasing and installing the set up I have. I purchased their complete kit for the EcoD. This was before they offered the Aux oil cooler option. I currently only use the bypass housing and filter. I like returning the cooler oil to the pan instead of the top of the engine. The ISD oil filter housing worked great, however I had a few factory oil filters that needed to be used. I also wanted to tap into the filter housing to have another location to verify oil PSI.

One thing that ISD was very specific about was do not tap into the factory oil system with any larger than 1/8 NPT. Anything larger would reduce engine oil pressure. Also something would need to be added to create back pressure from the 1/8 tap (bypass filter). The back pressure needs to be within 5’ of the tap. The reasoning is the factory oil pump does not have the volume to maintain pressure with added oil capacity in the PSI loop.
A (maybe) more familiar example of this is adding a hydraulic ram to assist steering. To do this the standard is tapping in to the steering gear to add the lines needed for the ram. A larger volume pump is needed to work properly. With the 12v power steering pump on the JL/JT only pressure can be raised not volume. This creates dead spots in certain situations, turning faster than the pump can keep up with.

My current set up cost less than $1000
By pass filter w/housing
Oil cooler
40’ 3/8 hose
Misc fittings
Tap into oil filter housing ports. 1/4 NPT with 1/8 NPT reducers
Bungs installed in oil pan. The pan only has 4 flat spots to add the bung easily.

My return oil from cooler to the pan with fan on is about a 100*.
1 quart per minute at idle, oil pressure at 20PSI.
Factory oil PSI is unchanged.
12quart total oil capacity. Amount of oil in the pan is unchanged from factory level. The bypass filter and cooler are mounted below oil housing return level. Bypass filter does not flow without pressure.
Draining the extra 3 quarts of oil out of the system is a pain in the A**.

I have about 10K on this setup. It works.

 

[Madtom]

I talked to Insane Diesel before purchasing and installing the set up I have. I purchased their complete kit for the EcoD. This was before they offered the Aux oil cooler option. I currently only use the bypass housing and filter. I like returning the cooler oil to the pan instead of the top of the engine. The ISD oil filter housing worked great, however I had a few factory oil filters that needed to be used. I also wanted to tap into the filter housing to have another location to verify oil PSI.

One thing that ISD was very specific about was do not tap into the factory oil system with any larger than 1/8 NPT. Anything larger would reduce engine oil pressure. Also something would need to be added to create back pressure from the 1/8 tap (bypass filter). The back pressure needs to be within 5’ of the tap. The reasoning is the factory oil pump does not have the volume to maintain pressure with added oil capacity in the PSI loop.
A (maybe) more familiar example of this is adding a hydraulic ram to assist steering. To do this the standard is tapping in to the steering gear to add the lines needed for the ram. A larger volume pump is needed to work properly. With the 12v power steering pump on the JL/JT only pressure can be raised not volume. This creates dead spots in certain situations, turning faster than the pump can keep up with.

My current set up cost less than $1000
By pass filter w/housing
Oil cooler
40’ 3/8 hose
Misc fittings
Tap into oil filter housing ports. 1/4 NPT with 1/8 NPT reducers
Bungs installed in oil pan. The pan only has 4 flat spots to add the bung easily.

My return oil from cooler to the pan with fan on is about a 100*.
1 quart per minute at idle, oil pressure at 20PSI.
Factory oil PSI is unchanged.
12quart total oil capacity. Amount of oil in the pan is unchanged from factory level. The bypass filter and cooler are mounted below oil housing return level. Bypass filter does not flow without pressure.
Draining the extra 3 quarts of oil out of the system is a pain in the A**.

I have about 10K on this setup. It works.

Dean,

I will probably do a setup like yours. Thank you for doing all the guinea pig testing so I don't have to. What size is the return line to oil pan from the cooler?

 

[NCJL]

All lines are 3/8-AN6 fittings. Only the tap from oil filter housing is reduced to 1/8 npt.
The cooler is Derale 13870
The 3/8 lines/push lock hose are also Derale made by Continental. This was the highest temp rated push lock hose I could find.
I used brass push lock fittings, no clamps.

The mounting location of the cooler will make a huge difference. My cooler is mounted in the spare tire location. Does a great melting snow in the bed.

Yesterday wife and I did a drive up the mountain. (8500’)We have done this trip many times. I turned on the cooling fan to start the trip (first trip starting with fan on). Before modes oil temp would hit 248*. Oil temps topped out in the low 220*’s. After reaching the summit the oil temps dropped below 200* with coolant temps around 207*.

 

[NCJL]

Couple of pics showing Bung placement and internals of the ISD 1 micron bypass filter.

 

[Madtom]

I talked to Insane Diesel before purchasing and installing the set up I have. I purchased their complete kit for the EcoD. This was before they offered the Aux oil cooler option. I currently only use the bypass housing and filter. I like returning the cooler oil to the pan instead of the top of the engine. The ISD oil filter housing worked great, however I had a few factory oil filters that needed to be used. I also wanted to tap into the filter housing to have another location to verify oil PSI.

One thing that ISD was very specific about was do not tap into the factory oil system with any larger than 1/8 NPT. Anything larger would reduce engine oil pressure. Also something would need to be added to create back pressure from the 1/8 tap (bypass filter). The back pressure needs to be within 5’ of the tap. The reasoning is the factory oil pump does not have the volume to maintain pressure with added oil capacity in the PSI loop.
A (maybe) more familiar example of this is adding a hydraulic ram to assist steering. To do this the standard is tapping in to the steering gear to add the lines needed for the ram. A larger volume pump is needed to work properly. With the 12v power steering pump on the JL/JT only pressure can be raised not volume. This creates dead spots in certain situations, turning faster than the pump can keep up with.

My current set up cost less than $1000
By pass filter w/housing
Oil cooler
40’ 3/8 hose
Misc fittings
Tap into oil filter housing ports. 1/4 NPT with 1/8 NPT reducers
Bungs installed in oil pan. The pan only has 4 flat spots to add the bung easily.

My return oil from cooler to the pan with fan on is about a 100*.
1 quart per minute at idle, oil pressure at 20PSI.
Factory oil PSI is unchanged.
12quart total oil capacity. Amount of oil in the pan is unchanged from factory level. The bypass filter and cooler are mounted below oil housing return level. Bypass filter does not flow without pressure.
Draining the extra 3 quarts of oil out of the system is a pain in the A**.

I have about 10K on this setup. It works.

Dean,

in previous pictures on the forum(pretty sure it was your JT I could be mistaken lol) you had fittings hooked into factory plugs down by the factory oil cooler running to your aux cooler in the back. You still have that setup or are you just using the ISD tap at the filter cover and running bypass and then aux cooler with return to the oil pan?

 

[NCJL]

Started with ISD filter housing. I verified PSI before tapping into the plugs on bottom of filter housing. I currently use the taps on the bottom. The ISD filter works the same and had the same results. I changed oil after about 3K miles. I only had factory filters. I also think the tap in bottom of housing is cleaner. Easier to change factory filter than ISD. ISD does use a standard oil filter that fits the Gen 1 and 2 EcoD. $15 for a wix filter.

The current set up.

You can see the bottom of the ISD bypass filter in this pic. 2-90* fittings. One from tap, one to cooler.

 

[Madtom]

Started with ISD filter housing. I verified PSI before tapping into the plugs on bottom of filter housing. I currently use the taps on the bottom. The ISD filter works the same and had the same results. I changed oil after about 3K miles. I only had factory filters. I also think the tap in bottom of housing is cleaner. Easier to change factory filter than ISD. ISD does use a standard oil filter that fits the Gen 1 and 2 EcoD. $15 for a wix filter.

The current set up.

You can see the bottom of the ISD bypass filter in this pic. 2-90* fittings. One from tap, one to cooler.

Dean,
Very clean setup. I really like the push lock hose connectors. Did you drill and tap the factory plugs or buy some already with inner threads? Since I bought a housing to learn more I technically have extras to work with.

Jeep should have made it that way from the factory. I plan on having my truck for a long time.... (still being built lol) I do all of my own maintenance on all the vehicles and the JT will be no different.

 

[NCJL]

Currently using the factory plugs that I tapped. I did use aftermarket for all PSI tests before tapping the factory plugs. Tapping the factory plugs works best. The plugs are so close together, aftermarket adapters need turning down to fit. Factory plugs also have a taper I could not find.

 

[Capngeo]

This is an awesome thread! Thanks!

 

[pmpmstrb]

I know I've been gone for a while but I have abandoned the oil cooler on my JT. After having hoses blow off 3 times while flat driving on the interstate I decided that was not the option. Instead I am currently working on a setup similar to Bullet Proof Diesel that will add a supplemental coolant radiator off of the factory oil heat exchanger. I would much rather have a coolant leak than an oil leak. It will essentially give the factory oil cooler it's own radiator. I plan on mounting it in the rear under the bed where my oil cooler used to be. I'll be using a Derale cooler capable of 67k btu/h. If that's not enough they make a 125k version.

 

[mrmo]

Should be fairly easy, off the stock cooler, thru the aux, back to the block. ive waited for a while now to see how the oil cooling would go before i start making my own. I would rather cool the oil than coolant. Hwy at 75, my coolant is 208 range and oil fluctuating to 226, thats w 65° outside temp. I havent tried pulling my small rv yet...almost afraid of it when warmer weather starts

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