Bypass filter and cooler install.

[rharr]

how dark/black was the oil on drain? did the bypass filter pull a lot of the carbon black out?

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[LordEnzo]

First oil change today. Oil life was at 16 percent. I found that pulling the filter cap on the main filter was a bit of a pain with the hose on it. I used a sink wrench to spin it as I couldn’t get a regular one on it. I didn’t change the bypass filter because they say to run it 30k I will run it two changes and change it. I did however drain it and it was easy to do where I have it placed

Oil still look clean? Or starting to black out? Aux filter look ok?

 

[Glad_he_ate]

Oil was getting dirty looking not as bad as it looked without the bypass filter for sure. However that was after thousands of miles. Over 2k miles of towing my tt and I’m generally loaded with tools Monday through Friday. I looked at the aux filter and it looked ok it was black but not falling apart or anything.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

When we say the oil looked clean…??
every diesel I have ever owned even with bypass filter setups still look black…. Unless the egr is deleted and then things clear up after awhile.

what does looks clean diesel oil look like if not black? ? (serious question)

Also, what filter are you using in your bypass setup?

 

[Glad_he_ate]

Looked clean as in not tar black, dark but not black. At 5500 miles my oil still looked as clean as gas oil the same mileage At 7500 it was dark but not tar black at 10ish K it was black and I’m assuming the bypass filter has reached capacity at the 1 micron lv however I’m still getting good flow through and the filter is rated for 30k so I didn’t change it. In the full flow housing I’m using a gen2 element. Fram I believe. I’d imagine that if I were to change my bypass filter every oil change rather then every other I would still see further reduction in soot loading due to it removing what has had a chance to build up in the motor. Over all seems to be a good product.

 

[pmpmstrb]

Does anyone have the part number for the factory oil filter housing or oil cooler/heat exchanger? The numbers Rockauto is giving me is for the 2.0 turbo and the Hemi. I need part 7 here https://www.moparsupply.com/v-2022-...6-diesel/cooling--engine-oil-cooler-and-lines After derating this weekend I'm going all in and going to make my own NOECO plate. Going to be tough getting the factory heat exchanger off though.

 

[krweatherl]

Does anyone have the part number for the factory oil filter housing or oil cooler/heat exchanger? The numbers Rockauto is giving me is for the 2.0 turbo and the Hemi. I need part 7 here https://www.moparsupply.com/v-2022-...6-diesel/cooling--engine-oil-cooler-and-lines After derating this weekend I'm going all in and going to make my own NOECO plate. Going to be tough getting the factory heat exchanger off though.

I found this in a search https://www.moparpartsplus.com/p/jeep__Wrangler/Engine-Oil-Filter-Housing/97205869/68511159AA.html

 

[pmpmstrb]

I found this in a search https://www.moparpartsplus.com/p/jeep__Wrangler/Engine-Oil-Filter-Housing/97205869/68511159AA.html

Thanks, I hadn't seen that part number yet.

 

[mrmo]

Does anyone have the part number for the factory oil filter housing or oil cooler/heat exchanger? The numbers Rockauto is giving me is for the 2.0 turbo and the Hemi. I need part 7 here https://www.moparsupply.com/v-2022-...6-diesel/cooling--engine-oil-cooler-and-lines After derating this weekend I'm going all in and going to make my own NOECO plate. Going to be tough getting the factory heat exchanger off though.

Im very interested in your progress w this. Ive been looking at this for some time and ready to figure out the easiest way

 

[pmpmstrb]

Im very interested in your progress w this. Ive been looking at this for some time and ready to figure out the easiest way

Driving back from camping this weekend I was going over all the options in my head and this sounds like the best one. Options I was considering were:

1) Bypass kit like the OP did - Issue is volume, but easily reversible
2) Install a T in the oil drain plug for supply and return through the oil cap - Although easily reversible and non-invasive I didn't like the idea of an oil line hanging that low
3) Manufacture an oil filter and cap replacement to get oil feed/return similar to the OP bypass kit but with full flow - Easily reversible and would allow using a regular can style filter in-line but would be very expensive to manufacture
4) Manufacture a block off plate for the factory heat exchanger - Harder to reverse and might be a pain to install but in my head I think it will give the most gains. The current design uses the coolant system/radiator to cool not only the coolant but the oil as well. Removing the oil from that system should make the radiator more effective at cooling since it isn't working double duty.

I am working on getting the piece ordered so I can take measurements and send it off to have a proto made. If everything works out I'll probably have a batch made. Any thoughts on my statements above?

 

[Rusty PW]

From what I have seen. The 2gen heat exchanger has one coolant line coming off of it. The adapter plates for it has a fitting for that line. So coolant flows through the filter housing and heat exchanger. Looking at our heat exchanger. It has 2 coolant lines coming off of it that I can see. So maybe coolant doesn't flow through the filter housing like the 2gen. And just through the heat exchanger. If that is the case. We could just connect those 2 hoses together. And made an adapter plate with 2 fittings for the oil hoses.

 

[mrmo]

Driving back from camping this weekend I was going over all the options in my head and this sounds like the best one. Options I was considering were:

1) Bypass kit like the OP did - Issue is volume, but easily reversible
2) Install a T in the oil drain plug for supply and return through the oil cap - Although easily reversible and non-invasive I didn't like the idea of an oil line hanging that low
3) Manufacture an oil filter and cap replacement to get oil feed/return similar to the OP bypass kit but with full flow - Easily reversible and would allow using a regular can style filter in-line but would be very expensive to manufacture
4) Manufacture a block off plate for the factory heat exchanger - Harder to reverse and might be a pain to install but in my head I think it will give the most gains. The current design uses the coolant system/radiator to cool not only the coolant but the oil as well. Removing the oil from that system should make the radiator more effective at cooling since it isn't working double duty.

I am working on getting the piece ordered so I can take measurements and send it off to have a proto made. If everything works out I'll probably have a batch made. Any thoughts on my statements above?

When you get the adapter/filter housing check the two allen plugs underneith and see if you can figure out what they do. My thought was it may be a possible pathway for inlet/outlet fittings

 

[Rusty PW]

When you get the adapter/filter housing xheck the two allen plugs underneith and see if you can figure out what they do. My thought was it may be a possible pathway for inlet/outlet fittings

Someone has already plumed a cooler from those 2 plugs.

 

[mrmo]

Someone has already plumed a cooler from those 2 plugs.

Really? I havent seen those details or info. So it should be fairly easy from there once the proper fittings are found, right?

 

[pmpmstrb]

When you get the adapter/filter housing xheck the two allen plugs underneith and see if you can figure out what they do. My thought was it may be a possible pathway for inlet/outlet fittings

It is already on my list to see what they actually do, but Samfamaz already hooked to them. I'm just uncertain as to how much flow you can actually get from them and I think you'd stand to gain more cooling by isolating the oil/coolant from each other by removing the stock heat exchanger. Check out his info here https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...el-power-derating-as-temps-rise.45447/page-34

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