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Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing.

Escape.idiocracy

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I'm curious on why the diesel utilized bypass valve at the filter. If it's safe to do so, can you push some zip ties through all those ports and take some pics inside the filter area and where it exits? This will help determining it function.
I am currently tracking down a leak- somewhere around the oil cooler/filter housing area…. The photos here are very helpful, and I just so happen to take a filter apart today…. So resurrection with a contribution…. ??

Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_4105


Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_4104
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Vtur

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I am currently tracking down a leak- somewhere around the oil cooler/filter housing area…. The photos here are very helpful, and I just so happen to take a filter apart today…. So resurrection with a contribution…. ??

IMG_4105.jpeg


IMG_4104.jpeg
Unlike the Ecoguard, this one appears like a very good copy of the oem filter. Both cap and valve ??
 

Escape.idiocracy

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Unlike the Ecoguard, this one appears like a very good copy of the oem filter. Both cap and valve ??
Uh, yeah... dealer charged $108 for this OEM copy….???

Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. imag


Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_4129
 
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Escape.idiocracy

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Diesel Filters online has them for 54 + shipping.. got my last one there for my first oil change there.

https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com...m-1500-jeep-wrangler-jl-with-3-0l-diesel.html
Thanks, I was kind of in a pinch visiting family. Jeep decided to have issues here… it was just in the shop not too long ago for a timing cover gasket leak, valve cover gasket leak, and cam sensor leak :|…. Assuming the tech over tightened the filter and it finished cracking now?? Made a huge mess. So several cans of parts cleaner later…. I am not sure if it’s done leaking, something else still might be leaking?? Or it’s just residual I am finding traces of still… ??‍♂ sucks- but the dealer had one in stock and Autozone had oil! After seeing this tread looking for images of the cooler assembly- I had always thought the relief spring was built into the cap…. (Until finding the photos here) So I popped it off to see why they sell this as a unit and not as a cartridge like VW/audis and more….
 

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Uh, yeah... dealer charged $108 for this OEM copy….???

image.webp
Cartridge filters were designed to be low cost replacement and good for the planet, but Jeep managed to made it most unaffordable and waist. Box of 10 oem Lexus cartridge filters cost $50.
 

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The oil pressure switch- has anyone taken this off and or know the wrench size? Assuming there is a crush washer on this sensor? When removing this- assuming, oil in the filter housing will drain out?
Thanks in advance for any info anyone has ???

Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_4216
 

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The oil pressure switch- has anyone taken this off and or know the wrench size? Assuming there is a crush washer on this sensor? When removing this- assuming, oil in the filter housing will drain out?
Thanks in advance for any info anyone has ???

IMG_4216.webp
No crush washer. Normally a taper thread. Yes, oil will come out. How much........don't know. When you install the sensor. Use a thread sealant. Tape or paste.
 

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I know I've been gone for a while but I have abandoned the oil cooler on my JT. After having hoses blow off 3 times while flat driving on the interstate I decided that was not the option. Instead I am currently working on a setup similar to Bullet Proof Diesel that will add a supplemental coolant radiator off of the factory oil heat exchanger. I would much rather have a coolant leak than an oil leak. It will essentially give the factory oil cooler it's own radiator. I plan on mounting it in the rear under the bed where my oil cooler used to be. I'll be using a Derale cooler capable of 67k btu/h. If that's not enough they make a 125k version.
I have been playing with the idea of adding a heat sink type cooler (PSC) for the coolant going into the oil cooler. I considered adding a Derale style cooler but I’m afraid of too high temp deference between coolant and oil might cause issues in cold weather.

I have already ordered the Prius cooler from the insane diesel kit for the coolant post oil cooler.

For the record I haven’t had any issues with derate. I just like project. I think it was James Cameron that said, when accused of being a perfectionist; “I’m not a perfectionist I’m a rightist”. Right meaning correct nothing political.
 
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Started with ISD filter housing. I verified PSI before tapping into the plugs on bottom of filter housing. I currently use the taps on the bottom. The ISD filter works the same and had the same results. I changed oil after about 3K miles. I only had factory filters. I also think the tap in bottom of housing is cleaner. Easier to change factory filter than ISD. ISD does use a standard oil filter that fits the Gen 1 and 2 EcoD. $15 for a wix filter.

The current set up.
792C9FD5-10C4-4DA2-B26C-C68E05EC196C.jpeg

You can see the bottom of the ISD bypass filter in this pic. 2-90* fittings. One from tap, one to cooler.
@NCJL
This pic is where you pull off for your bypass filter? But the passage where you are pulling from was/is heading to the OEM Filter? I guess I'm just curious if this is pre-filter or post filter? Do you know what the other port is for?
 

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NCJL

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Yes everything is still working great. Thinking all the post I did in regards to coolant/oil temps might be spread out amongst a few threads.
Recap of what worked without any problems to date.
Amsoil 2 micron oil bypass filter.
Tapped into the 2 ports bottom of factory oil filter housing. Plugged one of them. Use the other to the Amsoil bypass. From bypass to Derale cooler with fan, controlled by aux switch. Cooler return line to factory oil pan (welded in bung).

I used the front port on oil filter housing. Not sure of the position in the oil loop.

I’ve pushed the JTRD up some long 6% plus grades (85/90mph) testing. The highest oil temps I’ve seen with the current set up is *252. Coolant was close to that. Temp recovery to normal levels is less than a minute.

My theory is the ED is going to get hot no matter what in some conditions. The system I have eliminated the “heat soak”. No heat soak no derating. Normal driving conditions, no need to turn on cooler fan.

My JTRD is running 5.13 gears, 42” tires and heavy @7k. Average just over 20mpg normal driving conditions, under 75mph.
Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_8786
Jeep Gladiator Anatomy of the oil cooler and filter housing. IMG_8786
 

VA6489

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Yes everything is still working great. Thinking all the post I did in regards to coolant/oil temps might be spread out amongst a few threads.
Recap of what worked without any problems to date.
Amsoil 2 micron oil bypass filter.
Tapped into the 2 ports bottom of factory oil filter housing. Plugged one of them. Use the other to the Amsoil bypass. From bypass to Derale cooler with fan, controlled by aux switch. Cooler return line to factory oil pan (welded in bung).

I used the front port on oil filter housing. Not sure of the position in the oil loop.

I’ve pushed the JTRD up some long 6% plus grades (85/90mph) testing. The highest oil temps I’ve seen with the current set up is *252. Coolant was close to that. Temp recovery to normal levels is less than a minute.

My theory is the ED is going to get hot no matter what in some conditions. The system I have eliminated the “heat soak”. No heat soak no derating. Normal driving conditions, no need to turn on cooler fan.

My JTRD is running 5.13 gears, 42” tires and heavy @7k. Average just over 20mpg normal driving conditions, under 75mph.
IMG_8786.webp
IMG_8786.webp
Thank you for the info. Looking to do something similar with my JTRD. Looking to moun the cooler in teh lower bash pan under the bumper or in teh grill area.

Question about the tapping of the plugs (Oil Filter housing) 1/4 necked down to 1/8, why neck them down and use 3/8 line for the cooler and by pass filter?
 

NCJL

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Thank you for the info. Looking to do something similar with my JTRD. Looking to moun the cooler in teh lower bash pan under the bumper or in teh grill area.

Question about the tapping of the plugs (Oil Filter housing) 1/4 necked down to 1/8, why neck them down and use 3/8 line for the cooler and by pass filter?
I originally installed the Insane Diesel bypass system. That system used 1/8 ports with 3/8 hose. I was also told not to have more than 3’ of hose between the bypass filter and the tap port. The 1/8 port with less than 3’ hose, no loss of oil psi/flow will be noticed.

I compared this with my hydraulic assist steering. The steering gear is taped for the added ram. The factory electric pump doesn’t like the added volume.
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