Another Cam bites the dust...

[KevinM60]

noted and noted. Did you follow break in? if so did it seem adequate or overkill?

Page 140 of the awner’s manual.
“ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS — GASOLINE ENGINE (IF EQUIPPED) A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades see page 397. NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not inter- preted as a problem. CAUTION! Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result.”

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[Lochsa]

noted and noted. Did you follow break in? if so did it seem adequate or overkill?

Page 118 for my model year Gladiator:
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph(80or 90km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades see page296. CAUTION! Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result. NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as a problem.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Page 118 for my model year Gladiator:
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph(80or 90km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades see page296. CAUTION! Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result. NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as a problem.

My page is blank. wtf Jeep can't even make manuals right

 

[PuddleJumper]

I don't buy new vehicles to baby them. There's a 60k mile warranty. Send it. If it makes it pay 60k clearly I didn't hurt it by driving it from day 1?

agreed and same.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Page 140 of the awner’s manual.
“ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS — GASOLINE ENGINE (IF EQUIPPED) A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades see page 397. NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not inter- preted as a problem. CAUTION! Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result.”

Unless you custom ordered it or found one with no miles I can guarantee this wasn't followed. I'm not about to purchase a vehicle without knowing what wide open acceleration from a stop feels like. Every test drive ever period. And yet every new vehicle I've ever purchased has gone 100k+ miles with ease. Several 200k+. Aside from a cooling system failure leading to overheating and killing an engine I've never had engine issues. I do get the 1st oil change in before 5k and then every 7500 after that. It's almost like maintenance is far more important than break in periods. Is anyone really driving home from the dealer on freeways and highways keeping it under 50mph? Those that order out of state and roadtrip hundreds of miles day 1 can't possibly be doing that? I use it like I plan to use it from day 1. If it doesn't make it to 60k the free replacement won't be babied either.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Page 140 of the awner’s manual.
“ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS — GASOLINE ENGINE (IF EQUIPPED) A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades see page 397. NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not inter- preted as a problem. CAUTION! Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result.”

so your's is page 140, another guys is 118 and mine is blank. Come on FCA, even making manuals consistently is hard?

 

[KevinM60]

Unless you custom ordered it or found one with no miles I can guarantee this wasn't followed. I'm not about to purchase a vehicle without knowing what wide open acceleration from a stop feels like. Every test drive ever period. And yet every new vehicle I've ever purchased has gone 100k+ miles with ease. Several 200k+. Aside from a cooling system failure leading to overheating and killing an engine I've never had engine issues. I do get the 1st oil change in before 5k and then every 7500 after that. It's almost like maintenance is far more important than break in periods. Is anyone really driving home from the drake on freeways and highways keeping it under 50mph? Those that order out of state and roadtrip hundreds of miles day 1 can't possibly be doing that? I use it like I plan to use it from day 1. If it doesn't make it to 60k the free replacement won't be babied either.

I hear you on that one. It’s your vehicle to do what you want with.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Unless you custom ordered it or found one with no miles I can guarantee this wasn't followed. I'm not about to purchase a vehicle without knowing what wide open acceleration from a stop feels like. Every test drive ever period. And yet every new vehicle I've ever purchased has gone 100k+ miles with ease. Several 200k+. Aside from a cooling system failure leading to overheating and killing an engine I've never had engine issues. I do get the 1st oil change in before 5k and then every 7500 after that. It's almost like maintenance is far more important than break in periods. Is anyone really driving home from the drake on freeways and highways keeping it under 50mph? Those that order out of state and roadtrip hundreds of miles day 1 can't possibly be doing that? I use it like I plan to use it from day 1. If it doesn't make it to 60k the free replacement won't be babied either.

Thats what i did. ordered mine in toldeo and hauled ass back to NOVA. 476 miles at 60-85 mph.

 

[KevinM60]

so your's is page 140, another guys is 118 and mine is blank. Come on FCA, even making manuals consistently is hard?

Hmm, blank.
that gives you all the freedom to do what you want. lol.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Hmm, blank.
that gives you all the freedom to do what you want. lol.

and legally blame Jeep if i cause a failure? probably not lol.

 

[Stan H]

Hmm, blank.
that gives you all the freedom to do what you want. lol.

Here's where mine is for 21' model

 

[Zachanadandy]

and legally blame Jeep if i cause a failure? probably not lol.

Even the shady Jeep dealers wouldn't try to void a warranty claim for break in procedure. At least not that I've ever seen. Even if they put it in the manual it says recommendations. Pretty sure the warranty is intact even if I didn't follow the recommendations?

 

[MPMB]

There's only one thing that has to match - the bearing surfaces of the cam with the size of the head's cam bearing surface. There's nothing else to match.

Not sure what you mean by "high end" but there's really nothing to match. Have you been into these? What's to match? The failures have nothing to do with bearing surfaces and journals.
There's nothing about a valve train to match. It's not how car engines are built.

Every car engine I'm aware of as far as mainstream vehicles. (under $100,000)

There's no parts matching other than bearing sizing and perhaps piston to bore in some cases. But heads and cams? Naw, no reason. Not a single reason.

I'm 95% sure when brands mention "matching," it's an inflated marketing term. The cam profile is "matched" to fit "this" head. With manufacturing tolerances vastly (?) superior to decades past, cams and heads are like having 2 dozen pairs of the same socks. It doesn't matter which sock goes with another.

One time, at band camp (read: stock car race), the rules allowed open carb on an aluminum-head motor (NASCAR tour 9:1 type). Giggity. We called up the engine builder and said, "hey, these new rules are allowing us to run open carb, what else can we do to maximize power?" He said, "I got a cam you can throw in." So our 9:1 that ran a 390cfm carb and put out about 530hp suddenly got a dragon breather carb and a lumpy cam, adding - at minimum - 75hp. That put us up there with the "open" motors that were 600-625hp, but without the extra 80lbs on the nose. And it was noticable.

While an apples to potatoes comparison, cams aren't "matched."

 

[MPMB]

Here's where mine is for 21' model

Gas or Diesel?

I don't believe I have an owner's manual with mine (2021 as well), I've only had the digital one.
2021 Jeep Gladiator Owner's Manual

And that ^^^ isn't on those pages.

As far as my driving habits are concerned... if anything were to break, it would have done so a long time ago.

The cam issue is a defective part issue from a random (as of now) selection of Jeeps. I don't believe it has anything to do with driving behavior, gas, oil, or longevity.

 

[KevinM60]

Even the shady Jeep dealers wouldn't try to void a warranty claim for break in procedure. At least not that I've ever seen. Even if they put it in the manual it says recommendations. Pretty sure the warranty is intact even if I didn't follow the recommendations?

They'd have an impossible time proving that one.

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