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Another Death wobble conflicting info Clayton lift

bleda2002

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Interesting update.

Spoke to another shop regarding road force balancing. Without even saying it, they asked if my tires were BFGs. Which they are and they said they never have luck with them balancing out well. Anyone have that experience?
BFGs are well known to take shit tons of weight in the big sizes and often require road force balancing to reach a tolerable level. My last set of BFGs needed 7 pounds of weights between the 4 tires to "balance" and I use that term loosely as it was more like close enough than actually balanced.
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jsturges18

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Decided to replace the ball joints instead of the road force balancing since ball joints seem to be a common issue.

Local shop likes Teraflex but charge $1700 installed. I saw dynatracs being popular as well. I went Teraflex. Install sucked. Knuckles would not loosen and the new ball joints didn’t want to go in nice and evenly. Single person in a driveway took all day and I broke the zerts fittings. Oops but I saved $1200 at least.

I’ve noticed less bump steer but alittle bit of wander or drift. So far so good. We’ll see how they break in and go from there. I forgot to take good picture buts here a couple during a desperate need for help text lol

Jeep Gladiator Another Death wobble conflicting info Clayton lift IMG_5097


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Bandit’s Lair

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Good liberal amount of penetrating oil helps get em out. A lot of people like using heat but I’m not a fan of it. When installing anything with zerks that aren’t recessed I remove them. As long as your work area and tools are clean it doesn’t hurt. Too little too late now but there’s always next time. :like:
 
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jsturges18

jsturges18

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Good liberal amount of penetrating oil helps get em out. A lot of people like using heat but I’m not a fan of it. When installing anything with zerks that aren’t recessed I remove them. As long as your work area and tools are clean it doesn’t hurt. Too little too late now but there’s always next time. :like:
That little harbor freight ball joint claw tool was perfect. I ended up with that instead of a small torch since the knuckle is aluminum. I had to grind the inner part of the claw tool to fit around the shaft and hammer it in so the “thumb” portion wouldn’t slip off the ball joint end. Quick impact and it popped right off.

Because the install of the ball joints would not go in even, there was a lot of in and out with them. My dumb self had the zerks on too soon and broke them. Mini tap and die with new fittings already ordered though 🤙🏼
 

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What a saga.
Toe out a teeny bit.
Did you check the torque on the Pitman arm nut?
Better yet, install the Metalcloak sector shaft brace and then retorque it.
6-6.5 degrees caster is where you should be with 37's and lifted.
 

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Put mine in the shop while on vacation.... my new drag link was toast, covered under warranty by RPM Steering. Tires rebalanced, using proper weights, not the flat ones from Discount Tire. Only a slight vibration now, when I hit 50-55mph, it goes away at 60. I had a single new Mickey Thompson put on right after the lift from Discount Tire, via road hazard warranty. Maybe the new tire is out of round? Going to give a week or so and see what happens.....I might end up at Discount getting the 1 new tire replaced or may be try for 4 new ones to keep them at same milage? New drag link made a vast improvement to say the least, no more bump steer and tracks straight.
 

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Put mine in the shop while on vacation.... my new drag link was toast, covered under warranty by RPM Steering. Tires rebalanced, using proper weights, not the flat ones from Discount Tire. Only a slight vibration now, when I hit 50-55mph, it goes away at 60. I had a single new Mickey Thompson put on right after the lift from Discount Tire, via road hazard warranty. Maybe the new tire is out of round? Going to give a week or so and see what happens.....I might end up at Discount getting the 1 new tire replaced or may be try for 4 new ones to keep them at same milage? New drag link made a vast improvement to say the least, no more bump steer and tracks straight.
How old was the tire that was replaced? It may not be that the tire is out of round, it could be the tread depth difference showing. Most shops are not a fan of replacing a single tire because of this.
 

drew0622

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How old was the tire that was replaced? It may not be that the tire is out of round, it could be the tread depth difference showing. Most shops are not a fan of replacing a single tire because of this.
Thanks...never thought about it that way. I have about 15k on the original set of M/T 37s. I'll have to take a measurement and see and compare.
 

Bandit’s Lair

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Thanks...never thought about it that way. I have about 15k on the original set of M/T 37s. I'll have to take a measurement and see and compare.
I missed the Mickey Thompson on there. I ran a set many moons ago and found that the leading edge of the blocks tend to wear down quickly. Within the first 5k tire rotation. This is by design. It is beneficial for rock crawling. Never ran another set after those wore out as the cost vs what I thought kind of performance wasn’t there for me. I went to the older version of Khumo KL71 and was much more satisfied with my price point. Not sure how the composition or technology on them has progressed since then.

Side Note: Why are there no sponsored tire manufacturers on an off-road site? That’s CRAZY TOWN!!!
 
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jsturges18

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I think I’m all set updating this thread. I hope someone finds some of my struggles useful.

Trackbar with standard sized smooth shank bolts.

HD Ball joints

Road force balancing

I’ll eventually do more but for now mountain bikes and RC cars need some attention.

Seems good for now! Thanks everyone

Jeep Gladiator Another Death wobble conflicting info Clayton lift IMG_5107


Jeep Gladiator Another Death wobble conflicting info Clayton lift IMG_5108
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