I still have them and yes they are hub centric and don’t require rings but they are heavy and loud as hell. If the toe adjustment doesn’t fix it tomorrow I’ll throw them on and see what happens.Can you try the old rims and tires? Were they hubcentric or did they have rings as well?
You need that caster closer to 6. Adjustable control arms if you have them or geometry correction brackets, which will also improve the impact angles and get them back into the suspension vertically and out of the frame.Had tires rebalanced and toe adjusted. I’ll put some miles on it tonight and see if DW is still an issue.
You beat me to it…lolYou need that caster closer to 6. Adjustable control arms if you have them or geometry correction brackets, which will also improve the impact angles and get them back into the suspension vertically and out of the frame.
Ditto.These made a huge difference for me - Rancho RockGEAR RS62118B Suspension Control Arm Brackets. Corrects geometry and allows you to select different holes to change your caster.
They are to mitigate bump steer, etc. - and bump steer is not the same as DW.Steering Stabilizer does not cause, nor cure, death wobble. The Stabilizers job is to dampen the effect of large impacts so the steering wheel isn't stripped out of your hands when you hit a pothole or small child. It is a driving comfort and safety thing. A properly maintained and aligned steering steering system technically doesn't even need a Stabilizer.
Bump steer isn't caster.Well DW is gone but I’m still getting quite a bit of bump steer. Is the solution more caster (geo brackets or longer lower control arms), a track bar relocation bracket, or high steer kit???