Anyone else use this ATF in their Gladiator 8-speed?

[Stan H]

That is freaking hilarious

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[Maximus Gladius]

So much fretting about the transmission. Just drive it and follow the normal recommendations and all will be fine. Are all owners of other makes this afraid of their vehicles, always on edge about not doing frequent enough changes? I've never seen such fretting over using the charts, and how it's almost a right of passage to cut the times in half.

I think what you’re saying is it’s easier to just trade it in before warranty is up, yes?

 

[Stan H]

I think what you’re saying is it’s easier to just trade it in before warranty is up, yes?

I done screwed that all kinds of up in that case

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think what you’re saying is it’s easier to just trade it in before warranty is up, yes?

Naw, follow the book. If you tow or off-road the thing harder than ordinary driving, then cut the interval down. But it's also not rocket science.
it's been the same rules since I started driving 54 years ago.

But if you follow recommendations, use the suggested fluid, then you are doing it wrong, according to much of the internet.

The "book" is for normal driving, of course. So you have to be smart about it if you use it harder.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Now could this change if the Saturn's moon are aligned with Uranus and Mars is in its northern spring half way through its 194 sols. Then the fluid may have to be changed every 30.00001245 miles.

Really close actually. Almost exactly right.

 

[Rusty PW]

 

[Stan H]

Real men don't RTFM because we love doing things twice.

 

[JTGuy]

With my reverse clunk and the 3-4 funky shift I am just going to drive it . I would change the fluid if it would make a difference. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with it,,, lol.

 

[Mr._Bill]

With my reverse clunk and the 3-4 funky shift I am just going to drive it . I would change the fluid if it would make a difference. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with it,,, lol.

The reverse clunk is common and not really an issue. The shifting may become an issue. Changing the fluid just sets you up for a warranty denial, especially since the dealer has already said there is nothing wrong with it right now.

Both of mine have had the reverse clunk with a cold transmission. I always Remote Start it. To minimize the clunk, I shift from Park to Neutral, then to Drive, and then Reverse.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I would change the fluid if it would make a difference.

You won’t know unless you try. What’s your milage at? “Just put up with it” or “it’s normal” is lazy ass suggestion from those that trade in before warranty tanks and they don’t actually care to help with anything that could help.

Then there’s the other ones like you that have invested a lot in their rigs and want to keep it.

Your suggested option to find some ‘work-a-round’ to shift without feeling a clunk is ridiculous. There’s others options and you actually have a few.

If you have warranty, fight for it. If not, try changing the oil, and do a “quick learn” recalibration. If you have bigger tires, recalibrate the size for the odometer but more importantly to change the shift points in the transmission.

Another option is to find a new(ish) transmission from an insurance write-off in your state, swap that in or have it rebuilt. I think @StanH has done or is doing that.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The reverse clunk is common and not really an issue. The shifting may become an issue. Changing the fluid just sets you up for a warranty denial, especially since the dealer has already said there is nothing wrong with it right now.

Both of mine have had the reverse clunk with a cold transmission. I always Remote Start it. To minimize the clunk, I shift from Park to Neutral, then to Drive, and then Reverse.

I just wait until the rpms calm down to normal idle. Then no clunk. I’m at just shy of 80k miles.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You won’t know unless you try. What’s your milage at? “Just put up with it” or “it’s normal” is lazy ass suggestion from those that trade in before warranty tanks and they don’t actually care to help with anything that could help.

Then there’s the other ones like you that have invested a lot in their rigs and want to keep it.

Your suggested option to find some ‘work-a-round’ to shift without feeling a clunk is ridiculous. There’s others options and you actually have a few.

If you have warranty, fight for it. If not, try changing the oil, and do a “quick learn” recalibration. If you have bigger tires, recalibrate the size for the odometer but more importantly to change the shift points in the transmission.

Another option is to find a new(ish) transmission from an insurance write-off in your state, swap that in or have it rebuilt. I think @StanH has done or is doing that.

I’m in no way saying to ignore it. My shifting is butter smooth in comparison to before my pan drop. But I used genuine mopar 8/9, because I value the expensive tranny over $248 of fluid savings.

 

[Stan H]

With my reverse clunk and the 3-4 funky shift I am just going to drive it . I would change the fluid if it would make a difference. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with it,,, lol.

@JTGuy Listen mine and @arosen1997 BOTH had the exact same symptoms it only got worse till Reverse rarely worked there was days it didn't work .
Go to LKQonline.com I just seen they had a transmission on there with 2 miles on it $ 1450.00 plus shipping . 250.00 to a dealer or 350.00 to your residence.
I called my local dealer the verified the VIN of the donor vehicle. And also said it was fine to have it shipped there. I had them install it for me . All that was required if me was to buy a new transmission cooler & filter which I bought from allmoparparts.com and Mopar 8&9 speed fluid bought from. AMAZON .
Don't listen to stellantis insiders. Trust replace it . At that cost it is less than the price of a new one . Mine had 6k I purchased. @arosen1997 only had 6miles on his. Both work slick as a whistle. Mine came from a 2024Wrangler.
I am like you I got to much into it to go back.
Since I bought everything up front I literally just paid labor cost.
It was best move for me because of my work is very demanding of my time and I cant be gone and it was either happening or it would have been sitting along side of a road broke down.
Just do it .

 

[Stan H]

The reverse clunk is common and not really an issue. The shifting may become an issue. Changing the fluid just sets you up for a warranty denial, especially since the dealer has already said there is nothing wrong with it right now.

Both of mine have had the reverse clunk with a cold transmission. I always Remote Start it. To minimize the clunk, I shift from Park to Neutral, then to Drive, and then Reverse.

Many untruths in this post
Jump up and read my post . Follow the directions . Mine now works as intended and NO CLUNK , NO AWKWARD 3-4 SHIFT . Dont listen to garbage like that.

 

[Stan H]

You won’t know unless you try. What’s your milage at? “Just put up with it” or “it’s normal” is lazy ass suggestion from those that trade in before warranty tanks and they don’t actually care to help with anything that could help.

Then there’s the other ones like you that have invested a lot in their rigs and want to keep it.

Your suggested option to find some ‘work-a-round’ to shift without feeling a clunk is ridiculous. There’s others options and you actually have a few.

If you have warranty, fight for it. If not, try changing the oil, and do a “quick learn” recalibration. If you have bigger tires, recalibrate the size for the odometer but more importantly to change the shift points in the transmission.

Another option is to find a new(ish) transmission from an insurance write-off in your state, swap that in or have it rebuilt. I think @StanH has done or is doing that.

Done smooth @JTGuy its as simple as ABC .

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