Aux light dilemma [poll]

[Alans17]

So I got my Gladiator with halogen headlights and they suck. I went to remedy this on the cheap with LED BULBS, but that only solved half the problem - my low beams are amazing but my high beams still suck. I figure I’ve got three choices…

1. Mount SAE driving lights (ex. KC Pro6) on the winch guard to replace high beams

2. Screw the high beams altogether, live with low beams, and get high powered aux lights for the bumper (ex. KC Slimlite LEDs)

3. Replace the headlights

I should also mention that getting my winch installed was a very tight fit and a real pain to get on so if I need to replace the headlights I’d have to take the whole bumper, winch and grill off. Not looking forward to that but I could do it if I had to.

Regardless of what I do on the front, I will probably also eventually be adding ditch lights on the side of each cowl - probably a KC Flex spot or KC Flex Era 3.

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[RangerG]

Get JW speaker headlights. Expensive, but great

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do it right, do it legal - replace the lights.
Otherwise you risk pissing people off (and/or wasting money) because few lights sold are proper for highway use.

 

[Alans17]

Do it right, do it legal - replace the lights.
Otherwise you risk pissing people off (and/or wasting money) because few lights sold are proper for highway use.

You’re right about the short list, but KC offers two SAE-approved driving lights, a Pro6 and an LED Daylighter.

 

[Sallaman]

Replace the lights… the halogen reflective housing were never designed for led’s and every one ive seen were “not for highway use”. They are super bright in those housings and they dont control the light pattern so they blind everyone you pass. A good set of replacements will be way better

 

[kevman65]

Don't know Texas laws to make a suggestion on the aux driving lights.

But you don't have to take the bumper all the way off. If you have just long enough bolts bolting the bumper to the frame, buy two that are about 3 inches longer. Swap out one on each side. Thread a nut on to full thread. Remove the rest of the nuts but the two on the long bolts, slide your bumper all the way forward.
Grill should pop out on bottom now.

 

[ilovebikes99]

Get good quality LED bulbs, put them in the housing and enjoy life.

 

[tampahoosier]

So I got my Gladiator with halogen headlights and they suck. I went to remedy this on the cheap with LED BULBS, but that only solved half the problem - my low beams are amazing but my high beams still suck. I figure I’ve got three choices…

1. Mount SAE driving lights (ex. KC Pro6) on the winch guard to replace high beams

2. Screw the high beams altogether, live with low beams, and get high powered aux lights for the bumper (ex. KC Slimlite LEDs)

3. Replace the headlights

I should also mention that getting my winch installed was a very tight fit and a real pain to get on so if I need to replace the headlights I’d have to take the whole bumper, winch and grill off. Not looking forward to that but I could do it if I had to.

Regardless of what I do on the front, I will probably also eventually be adding ditch lights on the side of each cowl - probably a KC Flex spot or KC Flex Era 3.

Something to keep in mind. If you tow at all, and/or if it’s a diesel you do NOT want to place lights on top of any winch loops and block that radiator. It will contribute to overheating. Get better LED headlights. The oracle oculus are probably the best aftermarket you can buy from what I see.

 

[sass JT]

Just replace with a good quality led headlight. If you live in a area that gets snow… get heated ones.
Good luck with your decision

 

[cecaa850]

Don't be that guy that puts HID or LED bulbs in halogen housings. Replace the assemblies, oncoming traffic will thank you.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Don't know Texas laws to make a suggestion on the aux driving lights.

But you don't have to take the bumper all the way off. If you have just long enough bolts bolting the bumper to the frame, buy two that are about 3 inches longer. Swap out one on each side. Thread a nut on to full thread. Remove the rest of the nuts but the two on the long bolts, slide your bumper all the way forward.
Grill should pop out on bottom now.

SMRT Smart. Now we’re cooking with gas.

Perfect reason to work on your own vehicle when you can. Figuring out things like this make you feel quite pleased with your ingenuity.

 

[Alans17]

Don't know Texas laws to make a suggestion on the aux driving lights.

But you don't have to take the bumper all the way off. If you have just long enough bolts bolting the bumper to the frame, buy two that are about 3 inches longer. Swap out one on each side. Thread a nut on to full thread. Remove the rest of the nuts but the two on the long bolts, slide your bumper all the way forward.
Grill should pop out on bottom now.

It’s a clever idea. Unfortunately, my winch is on a winch plate which is inside the OEM bumper. And that winch is right up against the grill. I’d have to fully remove the bumper to fully remove the winch to access the grill.

 

[Jefe1018]

I also purchased my Jeep with the halogens and they were under whelming. I was able to pick up a set of Oracle LED units for about $100 off, unused from a member here.

Either spend the money up front if you’re in a hurry, but if you’re not, maybe wait for something to pop up here used.

 

[Alans17]

As for the talk of LED bulbs in the halogen ballasts… I’m already doing that and I’ve properly adjusted them so as not to blind anybody. In fact, I went lower than most recommendations just to err on the side of caution. I’ve traveled 10k miles or more like that without being flashed once - even with a fully loaded bed that adds a bit of squat.

My problem is simply the fact that these LED bulb replacements (and perhaps all replacements) have a terrible high beam throw which seems even weaker than the halogens. I’m not looking to find better LED bulbs. And I’m not looking to do anything that might jeopardize other drivers.

There’s an overwhelming agreement here to just upgrade the headlights so that’s where I’m focusing my research. Getting the headlights out will suck, but it’s still doable. I could probably couple that project with anything else on the front to make it more worth my while. And I’m still probably getting some Slimlites because damnit I want them.

Anyone tried those sub-$400 Quake halos?

 

[cecaa850]

As for the talk of LED bulbs in the halogen ballasts… I’m already doing that and I’ve properly adjusted them so as not to blind anybody. In fact, I went lower than most recommendations just to err on the side of caution. I’ve traveled 10k miles or more like that without being flashed once - even with a fully loaded bed that adds a bit of squat.

My problem is simply the fact that these LED bulb replacements (and perhaps all replacements) have a terrible high beam throw which seems even weaker than the halogens. I’m not looking to find better LED bulbs. And I’m not looking to do anything that might jeopardize other drivers.

There’s an overwhelming agreement here to just upgrade the headlights so that’s where I’m focusing my research. Getting the headlights out will suck, but it’s still doable. I could probably couple that project with anything else on the front to make it more worth my while. And I’m still probably getting some Slimlites because damnit I want them.

Anyone tried those sub-$400 Quake halos?

You can adjust them all you want but you can't change the excessive diffraction that occurs from a light source on the bulb that is different than the halogens.

Good on you to want to change the housings.

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