Battery Charging/Tender Question

[RidingDonkeys]

Bear with me, because I'm new to this new-fangled computer charging crap. Life was so much easier with a constant output alternator. Nevertheless, here goes the dumb questions.

Current state, ESS unavailable due to battery charging. 2022 Ecodiesel with 13k miles. Yes, I know those factory batteries suck, but I still need to understand the system.

1. When I look at the voltage on the dash, where is it taking that reading? Alternator output, main battery, ESS battery, or is it an entire system reading? I'm currently showing 14 volts when driving, but in the run position with the engine off, I'm showing 12.4.

2. Do I understand correctly that the computer based alternator system does not charge the ESS battery when ESS is turned off? (I almost always turn it off because it is stupid in stop/go traffic in rush hour.)

3. I intend to run a port for a battery tender. I normally drive a lot, but there are times where I'll be traveling for a few weeks at a time. If I hook the tender quick-connect terminals to the main battery, does it also maintain/charge the ESS battery when in a parked/off configuration?

I think the long term solution here is a Tazer and ESS battery elimination, but I'm going to run the stock configuration for as long as I can. In the meantime

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[Lost1wing]

Both batteries are connected to each other and are only separated during an ESS event. Vehicle in park running or not the batteries are in parallel. While driving down the highway, (regardless of the ESS battery changing message), the batteries are in parallel.

If you consistently see the battery charging message on the ESS page, that is an indication that one of your batteries is not reaching a full charge and you should look into it further. There may be a reason for a low battery state such as being parked for an extended period. In that case you could have 2 new batteries and fall victim to the message or a no start.

You need drive it often or put a battery tender on it. You have mentioned a battery tender already, so stick to that plan.

You can eliminate the ESS battery or permanently connect the two together, but neither one will help extended parking times.

 

[Mr._Bill]

The ESS system cannot be disabled or removed, it is always active. The button on the dash only prevents the engine from turning off when ESS calls for it. Whether or not the ESS button is pressed has no effect on charging the batteries.

 

[RidingDonkeys]

Both batteries are connected to each other and are only separated during an ESS event. Vehicle in park running or not the batteries are in parallel. While driving down the highway, (regardless of the ESS battery changing message), the batteries are in parallel.

If you consistently see the battery charging message on the ESS page, that is an indication that one of your batteries is not reaching a full charge and you should look into it further. There may be a reason for a low battery state such as being parked for an extended period. In that case you could have 2 new batteries and fall victim to the message or a no start.

You need drive it often or put a battery tender on it. You have mentioned a battery tender already, so stick to that plan.

You can eliminate the ESS battery or permanently connect the two together, but neither one will help extended parking times.

Interesting. I haven't been parked for more than a day since owning it, although that will change soon. That's why I was planning a tender. The charging warning just started yesterday. The only thing I've changed is the installation of a hardwired dashcam last week. It's on Aux 3, set for always on, with a cutoff set for 12.4v. As soon as I got the warning, I reprogrammed the switch to turn off with the ignition.

I'll pull the batteries and charge separately tonight, then continue to monitor. But however I think my timeline for deleting the ESS battery just accelerated.

 

[Lost1wing]

Interesting. I haven't been parked for more than a day since owning it, although that will change soon. That's why I was planning a tender. The charging warning just started yesterday. The only thing I've changed is the installation of a hardwired dashcam last week. It's on Aux 3, set for always on, with a cutoff set for 12.4v. As soon as I got the warning, I reprogrammed the switch to turn off with the ignition.

I'll pull the batteries and charge separately tonight, then continue to monitor. But however I think my timeline for deleting the ESS battery just accelerated.

Don't forget to reset the IBS.

 

[RidingDonkeys]

Don't forget to reset the IBS.

IBS? More electronic crap to deal with? Cummins was easier. ??

 

[Lost1wing]

IBS? More electronic crap to deal with? Cummins was easier. ??

It's not a big deal. Let's the computer know how to tell the alternator how to charge the batteries. I'm sure in a bit you will bet a better explanation. It's just my concept of what it's for.

Do a search for "IBS reset".

In a nut shell, the IBS is reporting to a computer that deactivates the ESS if it senses the battery voltage is too low for constant start stop. The computer gives you that message " battery charging " just to let you know. So if someone was to deactivate the ESS you would be preventing a message from popping up. Like was mentioned, disabling with the switch or the Tazer does not turn the system off. It just keeps the engine running at stops when the system is ready.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Interesting. I haven't been parked for more than a day since owning it, although that will change soon. That's why I was planning a tender. The charging warning just started yesterday. The only thing I've changed is the installation of a hardwired dashcam last week. It's on Aux 3, set for always on, with a cutoff set for 12.4v. As soon as I got the warning, I reprogrammed the switch to turn off with the ignition.

I'll pull the batteries and charge separately tonight, then continue to monitor. But however I think my timeline for deleting the ESS battery just accelerated.

Deleting the ESS battery gains you nothing, it actually reduces capacity since they are paralleled together. You don't need to pull the batteries to charge them, just separate the negative cables on the top of the main battery.

The JT has a large parasitic draw from the computers and electronics. It needs driven at least thirty minutes a day to keep the batteries reasonably charged.

Charging both batteries and resetting the IBS will delay for a while, but eventually they will need replaced. The life expectancy of the batteries is about three years, under good conditions.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

1. When I look at the voltage on the dash, where is it taking that reading? Alternator output, main battery, ESS battery, or is it an entire system reading? I'm currently showing 14 volts when driving, but in the run position with the engine off, I'm showing 12.4.

2. Do I understand correctly that the computer based alternator system does not charge the ESS battery when ESS is turned off? (I almost always turn it off because it is stupid in stop/go traffic in rush hour.)

3. I intend to run a port for a battery tender. I normally drive a lot, but there are times where I'll be traveling for a few weeks at a time. If I hook the tender quick-connect terminals to the main battery, does it also maintain/charge the ESS battery when in a parked/off configuration?

1. All that means is that you've not driven it often enough and long enough to charge the batteries up.

2. 100% wrong. The aux battery charges any time the main battery charged.

3. A battery tender will keep both batteries charged. You may be driving it often, but are you driving it long when you do?

These are actually quite easy to work with and not all that complex once you get past the bull crap on the internet that's mostly wrong.

12.4 is a pretty low battery voltage. you'll need to actually charge the batteries with a good AGM charger, or drive it a whole lot longer. Battery charger does the best job.

 

[RidingDonkeys]

1. All that means is that you've not driven it often enough and long enough to charge the batteries up.

2. 100% wrong. The aux battery charges any time the main battery charged.

3. A battery tender will keep both batteries charged. You may be driving it often, but are you driving it long when you do?

These are actually quite easy to work with and not all that complex once you get past the bull crap on the internet that's mostly wrong.

12.4 is a pretty low battery voltage. you'll need to actually charge the batteries with a good AGM charger, or drive it a whole lot longer. Battery charger does the best job.

Thanks, I thought the comments about it not charging when ESS was disengaged seemed off.

I drive a fair amount. I bought it two months ago and have put 5k on it since. That's 83 mile a day on average.

Nevertheless, the ESS charging warning went away on the drive home tonight. However, sitting in the drive in the run position with engine off, I again showed 12.4v. I pulled both batteries. On a 4 amp charger, the auxiliary battery was full charged in less than 20 minutes. On a 10 amp charger, my main has yet to fully charge in 4 hours. It seems I found the culprit.

I'll get the meters out tomorrow and test further.

 

[JTRDistraction]

I think you can get that replaced under warranty unless you plan on upgrading or modifying/deleting the aux battery. If anything, I would get the replacement so you get a new battery to use elsewhere if needed. Those things aren't cheap!

 

[Hootbro]

I did the full aux battery delete and installed the ESS eliminator and have no regrets. Kind of nice to only have to deal with one battery if an issue arises rather than fiddling with what battery to figure out is the issue.

 

[Trollboogie]

FYI ..... My main battery bit the dust the other day. I drive 110 miles round trip to work 4 days a week. So the batteries get charged by driving it a lot. My Jeep is about 2 1/2 years old. I load tested both batteries and the main battery was bad. I was able to jump start it. It was showing about 14.2 volts while running. After battery replacement it shows about 12.8 while running.

 

[RidingDonkeys]

I think you can get that replaced under warranty unless you plan on upgrading or modifying/deleting the aux battery. If anything, I would get the replacement so you get a new battery to use elsewhere if needed. Those things aren't cheap!

That's the internal debate right now. Do I just go out and upgrade to an optima, or do I go to a dealership and fight with them to get it covered under warranty? My experience with CJDR dealers is it it will require multiple trips and arguing with service managers.

 

[Hootbro]

That's the internal debate right now. Do I just go out and upgrade to an optima, or do I go to a dealership and fight with them to get it covered under warranty? My experience with CJDR dealers is it it will require multiple trips and arguing with service managers.

I know the dealerships have a defined process from corporate for them to follow to test the batteries before approving warranty replacement. I know it involves actually charging each battery separately and load testing with a specific device that gives a printout of pass/fail that then that has to be provided to corporate before warranty replacement is approved. They will only replace whatever battery fails so it can be a single or both if both fail.

Getting it tested, warranty replacement approved and batteries sourced and installed the same day might not happen.

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