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ShadowsPapa

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Engine temp "fixes" on the 3.6 is another solution looking for a problem.
NORMAL temperatures can be in the 220s but people freak and insist there's an issue if they see over 200 or 210. And the people freaking are those who aren't mechanics, techs or engineers. It's bad info passed across the web.

So what if it runs over 210 or 220?
The specs for a properly operating thermostat say it should begin to open at the temp stamped on the stat (195 for example) -the stat should be open 0.003" at the designated temperature (such as for a 195 - at 195 degrees it should be open 0.003")
Full opening isn't until about 220 degrees. That's a normal or new thermostat as used in engines for decades. For a 205 stat it should be full open at 228. Interesting, some engines set the minimum operating temperature at 205 and don't care if it's running in the 220s, it's normal.

On most automotive temperature gauges, the top of the NORMAL range is around 240 degrees. So for decades, it's a given that normal temps can reach 240. 240 is getting up there, but not panic time. It's not going to blow up.
These cooling systems can handle temperatures of around 260 degrees with the 16 psi cap and a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. So if you have a good cap, good coolant, 220-230 is still very acceptable.
Why are people concerned about temps over 200 or 210 or even 220? Because the internet says they should be concerned.
Engines actually produce the best power and efficiency at those temperatures. You want cold air in to have the density, but the engine operating temperature needs to be hot, not under 200.
Unreal what is out there on the internet about engines and temperatures. And it's all from non-trained non-experts copying bad information around the web. And the more it's repeated, the more it becomes fact or truth.
I want my engine to be running 200+ degrees, I don't want it to be running cold.
I've run full gauges in most of my cars since I first started driving.
Solution looking for a problem. These don't run too hot.
No wonder people are so confused when they see their temp gauge for the first time and it's running 220 - people are telling them they need to freak out.

Where are these freak-out temperature numbers coming from? Who is telling people xxx is too hot for coolant and yyy is too hot for a transmission and so on? Non-techs, Youtube, etc.
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willys 41

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Here we go again
I will say again
Do the test
Let your jeep set over night
Remove the oil filter
You wont see an oil filter dripping in oil
What you will see a almost dry oil filter

I prefer to have an oil filter full of oil every time I start my motor and run at a below 230 to 240 degrees
You can do what you want
 

willys 41

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So what now
You going to criticize someone that put 40in tires and Dana 60S on there jeep
The engineers did not design the jeep Wrangler for 40in tires and Dana 60s
 

ShadowsPapa

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If you are normally running 230-240 you have other issues you need to look into.
Even towing up our grades I ever saw anything over 220s - so you have other issues with that Jeep.
Not sure why people want to run an engine cold - it's not good for them. I've seen the results.
But if it makes you feel good, whatever.
It's just sad that bad temperature information is spread across the web to unsuspecting people looking for truth.

The 3.6 in the JT does not run too hot.
230 is not too hot.
Those are facts.
If it was an issue and matter of fan speed - FCA could easily simply change programming. It's that easy. Cost would be zip to FCA. Since the engine is drive train, they are responsible for it for quite a while.
 

ShadowsPapa

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So what now
You going to criticize someone that put 40in tires and Dana 60S on there jeep
The engineers did not design the jeep Wrangler for 40in tires and Dana 60s
Apples and rocks. Not even close. Can't even call it apples and oranges. At least those two are commonly called "fruit" although the apple is a false fruit because of how it develops from the flower.

Tossing on 40" tires because you can and want to isn't the same as misinformation about temperatures.
Tire size changes are not a solution where a problem doesn't exist. Heavier axles are sometimes needed for some of the things these are pressed into doing (and the larger tires necessary as well for some of what these are doing)
Saying that the 3.6 in a JT runs too hot is not the same thing.

A properly done upgrade to LED lighting isn't a problem, it's an upgrade even Jeep offers, so go for it.
Not the same thing.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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I only refer to things based on bad or incomplete information, faulty assumptions, lack of any true indicators of a problem, incorrect information about heat and temperatures (and the fact that future gas engines will have even less heat rejection and temperatures may be higher).
There's no science, no testing both ways. It's conjecture and it's based on assumptions that have not been demonstrated in any way.
I'd bet that most of us have 2020 and later 3.6s that start with no valve clatter at all. Mine starts silently. I don't catch any clatter. My oil pressure is also almost instant.
So isn't it possible that those who have a valve clatter for 2, 3 or 4 seconds (be real - I bet that's not timed, it's just saying that's what it feels like. Like'y if it a stop watch was used it would be under 1 second - it's like an eye-witness to a crime - that's the most unreliable evidence that can possibly be accepted!)
But what about........ but but........ valve train problems.
Yeah, off and on there have been issues. For the 3.6 PUG, in the 2020 JT model year especially.... but beyond that? Is there any problem? Or, do we believe there is because we are told there is. If there was - moving forward after the 2020 model year - I'd expect to see the internet full of threads about valve train issues with the 2022 and later 3.6 engines. But where are those threads? Since we know the internet amplifies or magnifies issues because people rush to tell about it - then we should be seeing valve train issues being reported left and right. Where are they?
Some of us in the know, who know these and have studied them in some depth are suggesting that the 2020 model year was plagued with issues more due to either cam and follower issues, or that combined with oiling issues caused by problematic exhaust lash adjusters and followers. One tech even likes to replace the exhaust lash adjusters on engines where the intake cams are being replaced just to make sure it's not a problem related to the exhaust lash adjusters.

Multiple 3.6s - never a valve rattle on startup, almost instant oil pressure, and no overheating, even while towing.

Do whatever you want, it's your money and if it all makes you feel better, fine.
No one is saying "DON'T DO IT!!!!"
I'm still waiting for evidence that these actually lack oiling at the valve train to a point of being even an extremely minor issue over 100,000 miles.

Will the adapter hurt your engine? can't see how. (unless it lacks a bypass valve) Hard to see a negative. All it does is intercept the oil flowing to the original filter housing, and then back out to the oil galleries and run it through a filter with valves.
Since the bypass valve is in the very center of the original oil filter area, deep under the filter's center part, I never looked to see how they handle the bypass situation. I'd hope that they've included an oil bypass valve otherwise yeah, it could make things worse.
(that's the part that for a couple of folks has shot clean out of the engine bay across the garage floor when it came loose from the housing, leaving an oily mess in its wake)
 

willys 41

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Sorry
Put the engineers got this one wrong
They had a hard time keeping the Gladiator running cool when heavily loaded
The same applies to our Wranglers running large tires and heavy loads
With the RPM Extreme fan controller I no long see my cooling system pushed to it upper limits and I am very happy with the results
 

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I see your point, but not all engineers are equal. The 3.6 is NOT a check valve style, therefore after 20 minutes from the engine is dry aka all of the oil is in the bottom end/oil pan. Takes 3-4 seconds after start up for the cams and valve train to be getting oil........that's a long time.
I wouldn't dare think Jeep's engineers are on the same level as BMW's. It takes a special kind of sadistic bastard to build chain guides out of plastic or run a prop shaft through an oil pan.

BTT: Does it really take that long for the system to be pressurized? Seems... excessively long.


Think about ramming your crank into a chick with no foreplay..........I rest my case
You sure have a way with words there, Shakespeare.
 

willys 41

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The jeep Wrangler and Gladiator cooling system is designed to do one thing and one thing only
Keep a stock jeep running cool
As jeep progressed in it line of models they did make changes
First it was the 600watt radiator fan with the small blades
Now they have the 850watt and the 940watt fans with larger blades
And don't forget the software upgrade reducing the fan speed because people where complaining about the fan noise
I wonder why the engineers in the beginning had the fan turning at a higher speed
Just maybe it was to keep it running cooler
 

willys 41

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If the engineers wanted the jeep to run at 230 degrees why would they put a thermostat the opens at about 190 and is fully open at 212
You would think Ok the thermostat is fully open now the fan should kick in maybe about 215
But it doesn't . It kicks in at about 15% speed at 221 and 75% speed at 231
 

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I wouldn't dare think Jeep's engineers are on the same level as BMW's. It takes a special kind of sadistic bastard to build chain guides out of plastic or run a prop shaft through an oil pan.

BTT: Does it really take that long for the system to be pressurized? Seems... excessively long.




You sure have a way with words there, Shakespeare.

Well GM is equally sadistic aka the AWD Trailblazer SS.

Yes, that's what the master techs have told me.

Yes, I'm know for having words that resonate with people lol
 
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Hootbro

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I have to admit, I am kind of ambivalent about the device. The part of me that likes to fiddle with things says to get it but the cost to value for me anyways is not there to pull the trigger.

People that run it and like it, that is great and I do not let it "Rustle My Jimmies" because their experience does not match mine.
 

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I have to admit, I am kind of ambivalent about the device. The part of me that likes to fiddle with things says to get it but the cost to value for me anyways is not there to pull the trigger.

People that run it and like it, that is great and I do not let it "Rustle My Jimmies" because their experience does not match mine.
with its $330 price tag im landing in the same boat as you.
 

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Food for thought, since the pentastar introduction in 2011, I believe more pentastar have been produced than any other engine. Can anyone point to a single pentastar failure attributed to lack of oil at startup? I’ve never seen one.

The oil temp concerns are misguided. 230F oil is not harmful. Pentastar spray oil on the bottom side of the piston crowns intentionally. The oil draining off the piston crowns is likely superheated to near 400-600F. The temps we see on our gauge are a blended temp after the oil is recombined and pumped from the oil pan. Turbo cars expose oil to 400-1000F in the turbine bearing housing. That’s why they say turbo cars are hard on oil. Somehow turbo diesels run forever though?

Pentastar are not really that hard on oil, and 230F is not degrading the oil in an appreciable way. I tend to side with the others who worry too cool of an engine may be the greater detriment.

All this stated, their’s nothing wrong with experimenting with this stuff or just doing it for gameplay.
 

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Pass for me. Prefer to just use the factory oil filter that I can easily inspect, and I don't have to keep up with a different part number for the truck for alternate oil filters. Also do not want to dig out an air compressor every time I change the oil. And, well - that's an expensive contraption.

But hey if it works for any of you fellas - I'm not gonna talk you out of it.
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