Beware windows bolts on 2021 jtr

[abe57]

LOCTITE® 648 is a green, fluorescent, low viscosity, high strength, urethane methacrylate acrylic, anaerobic retaining compound designed for bonding cylindrical fitting parts. It prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Typical applications include holding gears and sprockets onto gearbox shafts and rotors on electric motor shafts.

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[bakobobby]

Don't even think I've seen green loctite before

Only did the driver side... Was about $170 shipped.

I don't see an option for just one side but that would be fine by me. Can you DM me a link to that option thanks!

 

[abe57]

I don't see an option for just one side but that would be fine by me. Can you DM me a link to that option thanks!

https://www.allmoparparts.com/part-ymm/2021-jeep-gladiator-passive-entry-kit.html

 

[samw5]

I recall seeing a writeup that says unbolting the windows isn't even necessary I wonder if that is true

If you have small hands maybe... Honestly not hard to remove the window and lift it up, just wasn't expecting the bolts to snap off. Watching YouTube install they used a small impact like mine... Maybe the sheer cold did it but I would certainly recommend heating up the bolts for a few seconds and using a hand tool.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Not sure if it's going to be an issue for other folks but wanted to give folks heads up on removing the windows bolts on a 2021 JTR

Was doing a proximity door sensor install today, not a huge job buy when I can around to removing the 2 10mm window bolts they both snapped right off with my small Ryobi impact driver.
The damn bolts were so damn tight that they were likely glued on... There was some greenish residue.

Best part is that they used grade 8.8 bolts that are inside a $10 plastic bracket... Absolutely no point to do that but making it a total bitch to drill out.
Easy outs didn't work. I managed to get on bolts out, the other drilled larger.

Anyways, a 30min job turned into a 2h pain in the ass.

Green loctite.

 

[samw5]

I don't see an option for just one side but that would be fine by me. Can you DM me a link to that option thanks!

http://www.moparonlineperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=PSVENTRYJTJLDRV&Submit=

Free shipping no tax.

 

[Average Oregonian]

Dang! I would have been in a major panic had that happened to me. I did use a short ratchet only, though (if you give me a tool with leverage, I will inevitably use it for harm). I did manage to break the cast metal carrier that holds the door handle cap somehow during the job. I have absolutely no idea how, I just heard the "tink tink tink" of something metal falling in the door when I closed it after finishing the job. That lead to digging back in, and a bunch more headache, and finally paying the dealership to replace that cast metal piece and put it back together.

 

[samw5]

That does suck. can't have anything fall down inside the door even if it doesn't rattle I'll know it's there and have to take it appart.

Ended up taking the door liner out again and just putting a regular bolt with a small nut on the back side... Thing isn't going anywhere...

 

[JeepJunkie]

Every time i touch the jeep i say in my head 'this 30 minute job is one broken bolt from being a weekend project.'

my wife automatically adds 2 hours to whatever im doing to the jeep......just in case. lol

that is hilarious. My wife triples whatever estimate I give. If I say 4 hours she doesn’t expect to see me until the next day.

 

[Average Oregonian]

That does suck. can't have anything fall down inside the door even if it doesn't rattle I'll know it's there and have to take it appart.

Ended up taking the door liner out again and just putting a regular bolt with a small nut on the back side... Thing isn't going anywhere...

Yep, as soon as I heard it, I wished I'd had the radio on I was also lucky enough to get a defective handle cap new out of the box, so the driver's side didn't work until I diagnosed that and got it replaced. Those damn 15 minute jobs!

 

[cdyoung9799]

That does suck. can't have anything fall down inside the door even if it doesn't rattle I'll know it's there and have to take it appart.

Ended up taking the door liner out again and just putting a regular bolt with a small nut on the back side... Thing isn't going anywhere...

I was replacing the heads on an old car of mine back in college, and I had the headers unbolted to get everything back together. I dropped a new spark plug down into one of the headers trying to install them. Luckily I never heard it rattle or I would have torn that SOB apart to get it out.

Only car I ever had that ran on 9 spark plugs.

 

[samw5]

I was replacing the heads on an old car of mine back in college, and I had the headers unbolted to get everything back together. I dropped a new spark plug down into one of the headers trying to install them. Luckily I never heard it rattle or I would have torn that SOB apart to get it out.

Only car I ever had that ran on 9 spark plugs.

That would have robbed way too much power for me to leave it in there...

 

[bakobobby]

http://www.moparonlineperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=PSVENTRYJTJLDRV&Submit=

Free shipping no tax.

Thanks and ordered! Looks like I don't have the 13 and 14 pins mentioned on the door harness connector. Any help with the instructions for making it work ?

EDIT: 15 and 16 pins

EDIT #2: Looks like I was looking at the wrong side of the connection. The side that counts is the part where we plug in right? That has the full row of pins so I think I am ok?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had no issues at all. I did mine in a unheated dark garage that was about 28-30 or so degrees, all hand tools. I won't use "impact drivers" on anything like that.
I watched a video on doing the work before I did it mostly to see how things were arranged and what gotchas might be because my garage is dark (and cold - had space heaters running so I could warm my fingers up now and then.
Once I got into it, I found hand tools to be more than adequate and it didn't really take a ton of time other than getting things to come apart after taking those bolts out - it didn't want to let go.
I also seem to recall skipping a step or two on the second door........ didn't take good notes, though.
I had a much worse time working inside other doors and adding power windows and locks to other cars - switching these over was really a snap.

If I had one piece of advice for anyone doing this - keep the power tools in the drawer - at least until the screws are loose enough. They are great for show in a video but honestly, I don't believe they have a place in fasteners with any locking method like Loctite. I'd rather work them slowly back and forth until they are loose then run them out. The kicker is that with hand tools sometimes it goes faster as you don't have to mess with broken stuff.

 

[IamPro2A]

Best part is that they used grade 8.8 bolts that are inside a $10 plastic bracket... Absolutely no point to do that but making it a total bitch to drill out.

FYI: Grade 8.8 metric is not the same as grade 8 english.
It's actually about the same hardness as your typical hardware store grade 5.

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