Bump stops?

[MSFTMatt]

Have Clayton 2.5 Overland with Falcon piggyback shocks inbound. The kit comes with new front/rear bump stops. I know some folks upgrade to other options, Sumo springs, hydro, etc. Is that something I need to do as well? Running stock steel Rubicon bumper with Apex 12k winch. Will go with 37’s. No plans on changing out my front bumper. Clayton website says…
“The front bump stops are 3 ¼” tall made from UHMW and can be cut to customize up travel. Rear bump stops are 3” tall steel spacers, and come pre-drilled for optional bolt-on spacers for those of you looking to customize your rear up travel.” I truly don’t know what to do with that information!LOL. Help a brother out.

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[Escape.idiocracy]

Gas? Will need 1.5” front bump pads. Diesel none-.5” depending on the 37.

 

[aFatBird]

I replaced the clayton bump stops with metalcloak ones just so that I could dial in my uptravel. The clayton provided ones just were a tad tall for my diesel. No real issues though.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The Synergy stops are modular so allow you to change heights without removing a bolt. This is just the bottom pucks. The actual bump is the top part. Depending on what kind of wheeling you’re planning on, you can use anything from stock uppers to full hydraulic. A good middle compromise is sumo springs. I have those in the rear. I used to have stock in the front, and recently upgraded to hydraulic Fox IFP. They’re a commitment and aren’t for everyone, but I love them.

 

[MSFTMatt]

Thanks all, I’ve got a gasser. Not typically going to be doing hard wheeling. Overlanding is my build out, tho I don’t want to have my rig be the inhibiting factor on where I go.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thanks all, I’ve got a gasser. Not typically going to be doing hard wheeling. Overlanding is my build out, tho I don’t want to have my rig be the inhibiting factor on where I go.

Then go with something like sumo springs for the uppers, and get modular lower pucks for the front especially, and do an articulation test. Essentially you want the bump stop to hit and bottom out before your axle and any attached components can hit anything frame mounted. My general rule, since I have factory fenders and don’t intend to change that, is to have the bump stops set to prevent the tire from hitting the fender. But I let it get to about 1/2” away for max up travel with the sway bar disconnected. Related to shocks, you want the bump stop to prevent the shock from bottoming out. But you don’t want to limit travel, so adjust the bump stops so that they stop everything just a hair before the shock compresses all the way.

 

[dayusmc]

I bought the Clayton bump stops when I bought thier springs. The fit and finish on the Bump Stoos was AWFUL, it looks like they were made on a mill not a lathe.
Needless to say I sent an hour on the latch cleaning them up and cutting them down so the hole was centered. I actually can't believe they put a product out their like that. I like Clayton's stuff, but not thier front bump stops.
Yes I know you don't see them for the most part, no one sees my underwear, but I still wash them...
Just my opinion, but find some bump stops that are better made.

 

[MSFTMatt]

Mom always said wear clean underwear cause you never know....

 

[Rusty PW]

I have the Synergy modular bump stops with the JKS hydraulic bump stops. Can't even tell when you bottom out.

 

[MSFTMatt]

Looking at the MetalCloak lowers and trying to decide if I need the 1"-4" or just the 1"-2", saves about $100 going with 1"-2". Leaning towards pairing them with the MetalCloak uppers.
TJ/JK/JL/JT Upper Front (TJ Rear) DuroSpring Replacement Bump Stops (metalcloak.com)
Metalcloak | JT Gladiator DuroSpring Replacement Bump Stops
Adjustable Bump-Stop System (1" - 4") (metalcloak.com)
JK Adjustable Bump Stops, Rear (metalcloak.com)

 

[fourfa]

Clayton 3.5" lift here (though loaded down to about the same ride height as a 2.5"). Though the springs / lift don't matter; what matters is what contacts at full stuff.

FYI my 37"-12.5 Yokohama X-ATs just barely touch the rear inner plastic liners with 2.5" of Metalcloak's hard rubber pads (I cut one of the 1" pads in half on a bandsaw to get 1/2" pads. 3" was too much). They touch about equally in front, rear, and top, which I find to be about perfect. They don't touch when flexed static on a ramp or jackstands; it only happens on trail when completely crossed up, front sway disconnnected, with two wheels dangling. The rest of the time, no touch at all. But it's just light incidental contact and a few zipties could pull the stock liners in a bit.

But I'm in a Rubicon with the taller fenders and fender liners, wider axles, non-stock Icon wheels with +6 offset, and the particular tires I mentioned. Each of those things changes where and how much you get contact. And I chose my bump stop height to protect my particular shocks (19.4" long Falcons) and the aftermarket rear sway bar, not the fender liners.

(Fronts, with 17.9"-compressed Falcons, I only need 0.5" of extra bump but I haven't bothered trimming down my 1" metalcloak pads yet. But I'm in a diesel with the very long front bumpstop tubes)

Sorry, but the OP's question just isn't a simple one. Personally I would not buy anything metal, or fixed size. You'll end up wanting to customize the height for your particular build, and modular hard rubber pads are a lot easier to do that

 

[dayusmc]

Sorry, but the OP's question just isn't a simple one. Personally I would not buy anything metal, or fixed size. You'll end up wanting to customize the height for your particular build, and modular hard rubber pads are a lot easier to do that

This is a great catch Fourfa! I have a Mojave and my Wife's JLU is a High-Tide, bith come with the higher fenders and I forget about my last Gladiator (the now Totaled one) that had normal fenders.
The fenders on a sport don't have the same clearance, so OP keep that in mind...
Do you have a Sport, Rubicon, or Mojave?
My personal preference is the Delrin (plastic) bump stops, My front are Modified Clayton's and my back 0.5" are TerFlex.

 

[MSFTMatt]

I’ve got a Rubicon

 

[dayusmc]

I’ve got a Rubicon

So you have a little more room than the Sport. Some of the reasons for the bump stops is so that the tires don't hit the fender and rid the fender off, the other reasons is so that you don't get coil bind and also don't bottom the shocks out.

 

[xch47cpt]

Because the gladiators are front end heavy, and I'm old school with the 8274 winch,
I went with the sumo springs front and rear, love them.

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