Can an extra oil quart cause a seal leak? Here's some facts -

[Maximus Gladius]

My new replaced second 3.6 engine had 12L when picked up at the dealership. Drove 1567 kms (973 miles) to BC from Alberta, summiting at least 4-5 mountain passes there and back. I left Calgary on the Friday and came back on Sunday. Would hit speeds of 120-130 kms/hour (75-80 mph).

Have put on nearly 100k kms (60k miles) since then, no seal leaks.
Sure made a mess of things in the intake though, but so far, nothing catastrophic resulted from the error.

both bucket and oil jug are filled to the top with what drain out.

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[Stan H]

That pressure has to go somewhere.. yea. Good by seals

No no no no no no , How do I know this . I have admitted to this before I run extra oil in mine have since Day 1 why ... I work in super steep territory it often reaches 18%-20% grade lots of Mud & spinning etc.
I have 132k on mine looks at the pic the windage tray will control the oil and prevent frothing. Up to 1 quart over.
Am I doing something not recommended yes , Has it blowed my seals in the last 132k miles Nope will it blow my seals Nope . Why cause the only way the seals will recieve pressure like what your saying is if I stuck a air compressor hose in some port going into the engine and forced all the contents out. The pressure in an Engine cause by blow by from the rings is negated by the PCV valve and channeled back into the intake plenum.
I have owned mine for 4yrs. 9 months and I can promise you 1 quart over aint gonna do jack crap.

P.S. Bill fantastic write up great pics.
I knew you had it in you

 

[KX L]

I've seen it mentioned here and in other forums as well about an extra bit of oil (limit this to 1 quart over, and not more) and how it increases pressure on the seals, thus causing a leak.
Here are some facts ->
Thanks so much for taking the time to put together and post this.

I have definitely been in the "Don't overfill oil due to damaging the seals" camp. Probably due to growing up with dirt bikes in the 70's where it was a common problem.

So glad I could read this article and learn. Thanks again.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have definitely been in the "Don't overfill oil due to damaging the seals" camp. Probably due to growing up with dirt bikes in the 70's where it was a common problem.

So glad I could read this article and learn. Thanks again.

It's been so many years since I have worked on a bike at all, let alone a dirt bike - I'd have to relearn it all, but my bet - "very different animal". Last two bikes I worked on were a small CC Indian, and my brother's Kawasaki (I think I was doing some work on Dad's BSA at one time in the 70s)
So I won't even go there.

 

[WanderingTrail]

As for sealer on the Pentastar, I always use Mopar Threebond RTV. That looks like a mess on the one in the picture, but after the bolts are torqued on the seal plate, the excess should be cut off with a razor blade. If the Threebond is used as instructed, it will seal for the life of the engine.

I used it when I did my left side head on the 2012. That stuff is strong and seals really good. Glad they had specific places to pry between the front cover and block. Made me wonder if I really needed to put the bolts back in.

Ron

 

[Charles 236]

Once it sets up, you probably don't need the bolts, at least that's how strong that Threebond RTV seems to be. But I wouldn't leave the bolts out. I have called that stuff "motor glue" because of it's strength.

 

[oldironsights]

Very interesting & informative thread.
I have not given much thought to the PCV system on the Pentastar, but this topic is absolutely noteworthy.
I just learned something new.
Others will too.
I have spent most of my years trying to reduce crankcase pressure on boosted engines running between 10 & 28 PSI.
I have measured crankcase pressure well above 30 PSI.
I have read that overfilled sumps foam & cavitate, reducing oil pressure & volume.
This increases fuel consumption while reducing peak power.
So, I have read but not confirmed.
My old Coyote F150 held 9 qts of oil. Running E85 with 9 qt sump meant my engine never ran hot & the large reservoir of oil would turn over at half the rate that my current rides.
The 5qt cap of my Glad & Comp@$$ will run much warmer & will wear out twice as fast as the Coyote.
I understand the desire for the extra cap.
But, oil changes are much cheaper to do.
take your pick.
Along the Gulf Coast of America, heat is a constant companion.
I do not use 0w20 down here during summer, nor do I burn E85 in winter.
Even after watching Lake Speed Jr, I still won't run watery oil in my engines.
Perhaps i should.
I remember using 40 weight on my 360 & 390 AMC engines.
Did I burn up all my crankshaft thrust bearing in my J10 or Mark Donohue Javelin using 10w40?
I may have.

Thanks for the thread OP!
Got my gears turning again.......................

oldironsights out......................

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I remember using 40 weight on my 360 & 390 AMC engines.
Did I burn up all my crankshaft thrust bearing in my J10 or Mark Donohue Javelin using 10w40?
I may have.

Perhaps it was the clutch........ people put in a very strong clutch, and hold the pedal down which forces the crankshaft against the thrust shoulder in the main bearing. You can often tell if the engine came out of an automatic or a stick by the look of that thrust area.

I ran Blue Velvet 10w40 in my first car, but then it was a Gen I AMC V8 in a 1964 car.

 

[oldironsights]

Perhaps it was the clutch........ people put in a very strong clutch, and hold the pedal down which forces the crankshaft against the thrust shoulder in the main bearing. You can often tell if the engine came out of an automatic or a stick by the look of that thrust area.

Well, you are probing the memory of this old boomer.
I DID have 3000lb pressure plate springs to hold power in the Jav, but kept the stock pressure plate in the J10. It was a car that only I could drive with its massive clutch & single leading shoe drum brakes.
It had a dual diaphragm fuel pump that I rebuilt with a kit.
The lower diaphragm supplied fuel to the carb, while the upper diaphragm provided vacuum for the wipers.
Fun going downhill in the rain off throttle. The wipers would try to approach the sound barrier while decelerating.
Accelerating in the rain was awful! Under full throttle, the wipers would STOP. LOL!
The 4 speed manuals were not the problem.
I bought an Ambassador wagon the same year as the J10, & the Bass had a 3 speed auto.
Torque converter bolts were hitting the block upon acceleration after getting rear ended.
Scrapped that $200 Ambassador after that.

oldironsights out................................

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The lower diaphragm supplied fuel to the carb, while the upper diaphragm provided vacuum for the wipers.
Fun going downhill in the rain off throttle. The wipers would try to approach the sound barrier while decelerating.
Accelerating in the rain was awful! Under full throttle, the wipers would STOP. LOL!

I never had issues with the vacuum wipers on my first Javelin. They did fine even in our heavy rains. But then - I knew how to make them sing and keep them moving. There are tricks to them.
ironically my first car, a 64, had electric, my second, the Javelin, had vacuum.
You can still get kits for those better pumps - at least last I checked, but the single purpose fuel pumps, go RobbMc fuel pumps. I put one on my 73 Javelin. A pain to get it to fit and clear as he's got the fittings going directions that don't match stock, but I made it work. Killer pump.
My knees can't handle the tougher pressure plates these days.

I've been doing 10w30 in my legacy AMCs these days, dropped the 10w40 stuff. Much nicer sound and idle better. (but I stick to the tight side of clearances when building)

 

[Hootbro]

I ran Blue Velvet 10w40 in my first car, but then it was a Gen I AMC V8 in a 1964 car.

Never heard of Blue Velvet. Was that a regional brand?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Never heard of Blue Velvet. Was that a regional brand?

Kerr-McGee

 

[oldironsights]

Wow, OP SP!
Your memory is MUCH stronger than mine, but after four knee ops, I finally purchased my first NEW self-shifting car in 2015 after trading in my 142k mile base 2009 Patriot on a EA888 TSI Passat.
I LOVED that car until it hit a pig.
But, I can STILL operate any old clutch whether on a GMC cabover Jimmy or my Kubota L2501 DT.
But then, I AM younger than U!
Now, if only I can find someone to fund my shoulder replacements, I can return to my shifty, anarchistic ways.

 

[Stan H]

@oldironsights ...Mweh ..

I LOVED that car until it hit a pig.

What I want to know is how mad was that Farmer .?🫣

 

[oldironsights]

What I want to know is how mad was that Farmer

During my foolish working years, I occupied second & third watch duty to avoid the the maddening rush hour ingress/egress into NOLA from my country cabin sixty miles away.
My rides had to pass through Honey Island swamp & the bayou Savage wildlife sanctuary twice or more daily.
Not all survived.
There are no farms there.
Sounders block highways with 40 or more pigs.
Swerving to avoid them violates state law when another car hits me, making life more expensive going forward.
My lightweight Patriot got airborne @ 70+ after hitting a gator. (gator continued crossing I-10 after being hit more than once)
Dead deer are very common, as are the ones standing there waiting their turn to be dead.
I passed 11, yes, eleven deer in metro NOLA one early morning.
They like the freshly cut grass.

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