Can't decide on 2" or 3" Lifts

[Shopshirt]

I've been looking at the BDS Lifts and can't decide if I want the 2" or 3" Lift with 35s. I would likey not do a lot of serious rock crawling to begin with but want a level of lift that would allow for me pursue more challenging trails as I progress without having to upgrade for awhile. I'm leaning toward 2" but the 3" is not that much more.

https://bds-suspension.com/product?...MI-Nud85eT_gIVvRPUAR0a2w_LEAAYASAAEgLqm_D_BwE

https://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=1439H

From what I understand:

• BDS is similar to JKS and owned by the same Parent
• Based on my reading, it sounds like since I have a Sport S so a 2" lift might be more like 2.5 - 3" and the 3" might net out to 3.5" - 4" for my truck. So I'm trying to dispell myth from fact.

Per BDS' website:
Important Kit Notes

3. Non-Rubicon comes from factory at lower ride height, will net slightly more lift final stance the same for all models

So the question is would 3" reauire driveshaft replacement if the shocks at full extension are less than 28.5". From what I've been reading it would likely have clearance because shock extension is the limiter. (27.91" see below)

The shocks on this kit have the following specs. I would be running their base shocks and upgrade at a later time.

Part#	Collapsed	Extended	Diameter	Top Mount	Bot Mount		Qty
85758	16.55	27.91	2-3⁄8"	EB1	EB1		2
85782	15.67	26.2	2-3⁄8"	EB1	EB1		2

What are your thoughts?

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[WILDHOBO]

3” gets my vote. There are lots of suspension parts designed for 3-3.5” lifts. I think far more than 2”. And 35’s will look great under a 3” lift.

 

[chorky]

3” gets my vote. There are lots of suspension parts designed for 3-3.5” lifts. I think far more than 2”. And 35’s will look great under a 3” lift.

I second this. more support for a 3" despite my own personal preference of a 2" for physical reasons. Plus, depending on your load out you are likely to drop at least 1/2" front and rear when fully loaded - from what I have read most companies (except AEV?) seem to advertise their lift height when unloaded. It would be good to confirm that as well because if that is in fact the case, then a 2" from them, when loaded, would net 1.5" of lift - hardly worth it. I am hoping for 2.5 after loaded down from the AEV (as advertised).

 

[Camaroboi13]

I’m on 4.5” and factory driveshaft. You’ll be fine with 2-3”

 

[Shopshirt]

Still researching...Do I need adjustable control arms for a 3"? I keep reading conflicting info. Some say yes others say no or only lower control arms etc...

 

[JT_Guadi]

I just went with the JKS 3.5 lift, cannot wait till I get it installed next week!

I spoke with a guy that got a Sport S and the same lift on 35s he said he didn't experience any driveshaft issues after a year of it being installed.

Personally I plan to install a drive shaft bearing drop kit to correct for the new angle.

I know 3.5" is a bit too much for 35s but in the long run I want to upgrade to 37s.

Regarding control arms, some kits come with control arm relocation brackets to correct for caster a more budget solution but less flexible when it comes to fine tuning, adjustable arms are a nice option if it fits within the budget, make sure to also check for an adjustable control arm, or control arm relocation bracket.

 

[chorky]

Still researching...Do I need adjustable control arms for a 3"? I keep reading conflicting info. Some say yes others say no or only lower control arms etc...

It depends. Do you need them? Eh....maybe? MOPAR does offer new arms for their 2" lift which many report to having 2.5-3" of net gain (depends on gear loading). Those are only 1/4 or 1/3" longer though from what I have read.

However, to do it correctly then yes. I think above 2.5" is the general consensus for when they are needed. However that is for a 'standard' lift.

AEV, though not on your list, supposedly nets 2.5" fully loaded with gear for their standard duty springs. however they use geocorrection brackets instead of control arms. There are some big debates on pro/con of both, some assumed negatives, and debunked things. It's a continued debate. However, without geo brackets, at 3" you really should be using adjustable control arms to partially correct geometry. Note that adjustable arms do not fully adjust geometry, just caster. The only way to truly have factory geometry with a lift is geo brackets. But that's a whole different debate.

If you opt to not get control arms, at least get adjustable track bars for the front and rear. I can't recall seeing any discussion on this forum where someone went with a 3" lift and did not do control arm's or geo brackets.

 

[SSinGA]

Still researching...Do I need adjustable control arms for a 3"? I keep reading conflicting info. Some say yes others say no or only lower control arms etc...

Yes, you will need some method to adjust the caster. A control arm geometry correction bracket is a much more budget friendly addition and will allow for caster adjustment, plus they keep the control arms parallel for a better ride quality. You can always add the adjustable arms later on down the road once you kill the bushings in the stock arms.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I just went with the JKS 3.5 lift, cannot wait till I get it installed next week!

I spoke with a guy that got a Sport S and the same lift on 35s he said he didn't experience any driveshaft issues after a year of it being installed.

Personally I plan to install a drive shaft bearing drop kit to correct for the new angle.

I know 3.5" is a bit too much for 35s but in the long run I want to upgrade to 37s.

Regarding control arms, some kits come with control arm relocation brackets to correct for caster a more budget solution but less flexible when it comes to fine tuning, adjustable arms are a nice option if it fits within the budget, make sure to also check for an adjustable control arm, or control arm relocation bracket.

I have the same lift and love it. I will say that I started with front lower fixed control arms from JKS for the 3” lift, but did upgrade to adjustables all around. So my take is just do it. I went to adjustables in the rear for pinion angle correction with my new driveshaft, and for caster and pinion in the front. I’d definitely recommend lowers and uppers, or it’s tough to maintain wheelbase.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yes, you will need some method to adjust the caster. A control arm geometry correction bracket is a much more budget friendly addition and will allow for caster adjustment, plus they keep the control arms parallel for a better ride quality. You can always add the adjustable arms later on down the road once you kill the bushings in the stock arms.

And those bushings will eventually go.

 

[JT_Guadi]

I have the same lift and love it. I will say that I started with front lower fixed control arms from JKS for the 3” lift, but did upgrade to adjustables all around. So my take is just do it. I went to adjustables in the rear for pinion angle correction with my new driveshaft, and for caster and pinion in the front. I’d definitely recommend lowers and uppers, or it’s tough to maintain wheelbase.

Have you ever installed the front control arm correction brackets or did you go directly with the adjustables?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Have you ever installed the front control arm correction brackets or did you go directly with the adjustables?

Straight to adjustables. In the rear, relocation brackets wouldn’t have worked, as I needed to correct pinion angle for my new driveshaft last summer. In the front, I just didn’t want the extra connection point. I consider that to just be one more point that can loosen up and create problems. I’d rather have strong adjustable arms and not add a connection between axle and frame. It’s more expensive, but I think it’s the right way to go.

 

[Shopshirt]

Thanks for all the input here. I'm leaning toward the JKS J-Kontrol Kit.

https://jksmfg.com/collections/glad...ol-suspension-lift-kit?variant=42748775760031

It gets me:

• Front/Rear Dual Rate Coil Springs designed to great ride quality across any terrain.
• Front/Rear Gas Shocks (Jspec, FOX 2.0 Performance Series, FOX 2.5 Performance Series, or FOX 2.5 Performance Elite) specifically valved for this suspension system for improved performance on and off-road.
• Front Adjustable Track Bar and Rear Track Bar Bracket to correct axle positioning under vehicle.
• Front Sway Bar Quicker Disconnects and Rear Sway Bar Links for increased offroad articulation.
• Front/Rear Bump Stop Extensions to properly limit suspension up travel.
• Front Control Arm Correction Brackets to flatten upper/lower control arm angles to correct caster and improve handling.
• Creates leveled stance

I think this is a good starting point that would allow me to grow into off-roading since I don't see my self doing heavy rock crawling and focusing on more overland type trails. It starts with FCA correction brackets and Jspec shocks so I can upgrade to control arms, adustable rear track Bar, and better shocks over time. (unless I can find a deal on some Bilstein B8 5100.)

 

[HappyGladiator]

A good choice. I had the JKS brackets on my JK and they are solid and really helped with the 4 inch lift ride. On my JTR, I went with the Mopar 2 inch lift and it is great. The supplied front LCAs give 6.1 deg caster. Synergy track bars F & R. BFG KO2 315-70-17 and no rubbing with my Method 0 offest wheels. If I really need another inch I'll just go with 37s.

 

[dayusmc]

You could also do fixed but longer LCA and Adjustable uppers. I believe for 2.5" to 3.5", 24.5" control arms should be just about right, at least that is what the instructions in my Clayton kit say..

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