Check Your Rear Stabilizer Frame Bracket Bolts - Mopar New Bolt Length

[ShadowsPapa]

The bushing has an inner steel sleeve. There is no 'squashing' the bushing.

Yeah, I've noted that here and there - seeing "don't squish the rubber bushing". These are like bushings have been for decades - you must clamp that middle sleeve hard, it must never move. Ignore the rubber.

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[WILDHOBO]

Yeah, I've noted that here and there - seeing "don't squish the rubber bushing". These are like bushings have been for decades - you must clamp that middle sleeve hard, it must never move. Ignore the rubber.

I haven’t seen an oem link for quite some time, but some of the aftermarket links have pretty thin gauge sleeves. They would easily crush.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But not all of them have the same inner sleeve style. My links are JKS as mine is lifted around 4.5” years n the rear. They’re totally different than the OEM link bushings.

That's not the point - they DO have an inner sleeve. That's how the bushing is clamped in place. If you don't clamp that sleeve hard, you will have trouble like busted parts and wear and movement.
There's always a center sleeve. Always. CLAMP it tight, ignore the rubber.
It's been that way since the advent of bushings in cars. Clamp that sleeve tight.
These are like automotive control arm bushings, idler arm bushings and more - clamp 'em. Ignore the rubber. The sleeve will stop things.
And if the sleeve is too short, you have a crap part, a crap bushing.
These aren't new technology.

 

[jac04]

But not all of them have the same inner sleeve style. My links are JKS as mine is lifted around 4.5” years n the rear. They’re totally different than the OEM link bushings.

If you have a "totally different" end link, then the manufacturer should be specifying the correct installation torque.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I haven’t seen an oem link for quite some time, but some of the aftermarket links have pretty thin gauge sleeves. They would easily crush.

Then they are SHIT.
But I doubt they'd crush.
If you aren't clamping that sleeve correctly, you aren't installing the bushing correctly.
That sleeve must - MUST - be tightly clamped. If that thing can crush, take it out and toss it in the trash and I'm not joking.
If the sleeve can't withstand the CLAMPING FORCES required it's a piece of junk.
Torque is about clamping forces.
OTOH -
I highly doubt what you are seeing is the sleeve being crushed. It's more likely the rubber just sticks out more.
Clamp that link - don't stop because you are seeing rubber being "squished".
If it crushes, that's a part I'd never allow on my truck in a million years as it could stand even ordinary city driving forces.
Why would anyone accept a part where the bushing sleeve can be crushed by a proper torque setting?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you have a "totally different" end link, then the manufacturer should be specifying the correct installation torque.

Yes, but they must have enough torque to generate enough clamping force that the center sleeve can never move, not even a little. It's all about clamping the parts so they act as one.
If that sleeve is so weak as to need a low torque number, it's not going to clamp in place properly, leading to busted bolts, wear, worn out egg-shaped holes, etc.

Sounds like cheap stuff if you can't apply the proper torque to clamp that sleeve in place and prevent any movement.
This "technology" is as old as rubber bushings in cars is.

If those replacement parts can't be clamped with enough force to prevent any movement and make them act as one, then they are not for a vehicle that will ever leave a smooth highway.

 

[jac04]

Yes, but they must have enough torque to generate enough clamping force that the center sleeve can never move, not even a little. It's all about clamping the parts so they act as one.
If that sleeve is so weak as to need a low torque number, it's not going to clamp in place properly, leading to busted bolts, wear, worn out egg-shaped holes, etc.

Sounds like cheap stuff if you can't apply the proper torque to clamp that sleeve in place and prevent any movement.
This "technology" is as old as rubber bushings in cars is.

If those replacement parts can't be clamped with enough force to prevent any movement and make them act as one, then they are not for a vehicle that will ever leave a smooth highway.

But you are assuming that "totally different" means that the design is the same as the factory end links. If the JKS end links were the same as factory, I doubt that Summitdan would state that they are "totally different". Just sayin'. I have no idea what the JKS links look like.

 

[Lunentucker]

If you have a "totally different" end link, then the manufacturer should be specifying the correct installation torque.

That's why I went to the AEV kit installation instructions for him.
Their kit replaces the end links with longer ones, but are otherwise the same as the OEM links. Nothing else is changed. Same hangers.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Then they are SHIT.
But I doubt they'd crush.
If you aren't clamping that sleeve correctly, you aren't installing the bushing correctly.
That sleeve must - MUST - be tightly clamped. If that thing can crush, take it out and toss it in the trash and I'm not joking.
If the sleeve can't withstand the CLAMPING FORCES required it's a piece of junk.
Torque is about clamping forces.
OTOH -
I highly doubt what you are seeing is the sleeve being crushed. It's more likely the rubber just sticks out more.
Clamp that link - don't stop because you are seeing rubber being "squished".
If it crushes, that's a part I'd never allow on my truck in a million years as it could stand even ordinary city driving forces.
Why would anyone accept a part where the bushing sleeve can be crushed by a proper torque setting?

Bill, Ease up a bit. Not everyone has your decades of experience, but that doesn’t mean all of us are morons. I’m quite capable, and am not an idiot. And our vehicles are not restored 70’s AMC’s anymore. These are vehicles built differently. The basic concepts are the same, but that’s about where it ends. Also, your vehicle is mostly stock with a plow, a winch, and some mopar upgrades. So it’s not fair for you to advise people with purpose-built off road rigs, with such rudeness. Maybe you’re having a bad morning, but I’m allowed to express my opinion without you calling my parts shit. I can assure you that there isn’t a single aftermarket part on my vehicle that is of poor quality. Every part has been painstakingly chosen, and WITHOUT cost as a consideration. If the right part is too expensive at the moment, I wait until it can be purchased. My rig survived difficult lines on the rubicon with not a single part broken, including my rear sway bar links. So I’d hardly call my parts shit. Also, I drove it there for 15 hours at 80mph, ran the trail, and drove it home. It’s so strange that my sway bar links didn’t fall off, since I don’t know what I’m talking about, and the parts were shit. I regularly put my gladiator through things that many oem parts wouldn’t survive, but I have yet to leave a trail with a single broken part, with the exception of a valve stem once. But that valve stem was OEM, on stock wheels, so not well protected. But my matching 5th tire and wheel had me back in the action in 15 minutes. My gladiator is built with prevention in mind. Meaning I spend money on great parts to prevent failures whenever possible. Please, understand that you’re not the only one here with knowledge, common sense, and experience. No one is saying you don’t, because you do. But others do as well. And they don’t appreciate being talked down to.

 

[Vtur]

With any suspension bushing components that are designed to flex, the center sleeves must be able to takes enough torque to keeps it stationary. The rubber bushing does the flexing, nothing else. However, there are exceptions for bushings without the outer steel sleeves, like this end link or shocks etc. The links outer race does the spinning/flexing.

 

[jac04]

That's not the point - they DO have an inner sleeve.

Well, unless they actually DON'T have an inner sleeve. Checking out the JKS web site, they show this style of rear end links for some of their lift kits:

 

[WILDHOBO]

Well, unless they actually DON'T have an inner sleeve. Checking out the JKS web site, they show this style of rear end links for some of their lift kits:

You mean all parts aren’t manufactured the same way?!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, unless they actually DON'T have an inner sleeve. Checking out the JKS web site, they show this style of rear end links for some of their lift kits:

Ball and socket type - there's no sleeve and no bushing.
There's a seal, not a bushing. That's based on clamping the stud in place.
It's more like a tie rod end....... not a bushing with a sleeve in it that you clamp.
Still, in that case, torque the thing to specs.

You mean all parts aren’t manufactured the same way?!

Looks like they have at least 3 types - which is best?
The traditional bushing with a sleeve that's actually molded right into the bushing, and the busing a press fit, or molded into the end, requires the sleeve be clamped tighter than shit.
The cons - the bushings can wear and weather and age.

the other type like he shows - no bushing, no give at all. It's a solid ball and socket like a tie rod.
The pros - no bushing to age, wear, weather, crack.
Tough - long lasting save for physical wear inside but likely spring loaded nylon socket to take up wear over time.

The cons - A bit more vibration transferred to the chassis since there's no rubber to isolate it. More expensive (may be made up for in life-span)
Will the solidness really be noted? Meh, unless you detect the pea under several mattresses while sleeping, probably not a big deal.

My take - unless the type with a molded-in place bushing has a sleeve at least as tough and thick as stock, I'd avoid it because it's not made up to the specs of the stock part as far as the ends. If you can't clamp it as tight, it's not made as well in that single respect.

The type in the picture - I'd give it a shot. Tie rods and drag link joints go through heck - why not in this application.

 

[Lunentucker]

Here's a better look at the JKS setup

 

[notoriousms33]

I

Here's a better look at the JKS setup

ll call synergy…

is this drag link supposed to have this much slop once fastened?

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