Choosing a lift

[Rocksalt]

ride it for a while then see

Sponsored

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

How are they? I was looking into these just yesterday and I found a good amount of posters across different forums saying the were too stiff if you DD.

They are a little firm, but I think they’re a pretty good shock for the money. I had them on another Jeep before so I knew what I was getting.

 

[Len]

You pay for what you get imo… sure $2 k is a lot of $$$ but you did say you didn’t want to throw money away.

I did a full 3.5” MC lift, full steering components replace and falcon Shocks adjustable shocks and I travel a crapload for work (700 miles one way every two weeks). But hey it’s your jeep and you have a backup vehicle.
Enjoy it.

On your MC how much height did you actually get? Is it a true 3.5 or less?

 

[sass JT]

On your MC how much height did you actually get? Is it a true 3.5 or less?

With my rubicon , got about 3” true lift.

unfortunately I didn’t have pre lift measurements

 

[Len]

With my rubicon , got about 3” true lift.

unfortunately I didn’t have pre lift measurements

 

[Len]

Gotcha, thanks!!

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

I have spent a lot of time pricing and comparing lift kits that are on the market and I will tell you this. Any amount of lift over factory height will mess with your suspensions geometry. This is what I would’ve done with any of the following kits.

Mopar 2” lift: I would get front and rear adjustable track bars, and front UCA’s to dial in your pinion in addition to the kit.
Clayton 1.5” leveling kit: comes with front springs, front adjustable front track bar and adjustable front UCA‘s And new front sway bar end links (maintains factory shocks) - $799. This is the best bang for your buck if you’re just looking for a small lift in the front.
Clayton 2.5” Overland +: will give you EVERYTHING you need to correct geometry, but you will need to buy 2-3” shocks for this lift. $2399 for the kit, $650 for the shocks.

Just my two cents. Good luck!!

 

[whightealtitude]

AEV Dualsport 2.5"

Comes with the geometry correction brackets and I added the AEV steering damper. I did not need a front track bar. Have been very happy with it in the first three weeks since install. Unless you are doing some intense rock crawling I think it is hard to find a better lift for the money.

 

[willhonkforparts]

After considering this all day, looking at options and prices, im pretty sure im gonna go with the mopar kit. I think it's well worth the 1300. then add metal cloak lower control arms and synergy ft track bar, that will get me lifted now and ill add the rock krawler triangulated rear kit later after my wallet recovers.

It's a nice kit for the money tbh. I wish I was in the states and could get it for 1300. Here in Canuckistan, the cheapest I can find it is around 2300, plus 15% tax. Fack.

 

[Alaska-HWY JK]

It's a nice kit for the money tbh. I wish I was in the states and could get it for 1300. Here in Canuckistan, the cheapest I can find it is around 2300, plus 15% tax. Fack.

$2003 at Northridge in Ponoka

 

[willhonkforparts]

$2003 at Northridge in Ponoka

Shipping to NB kills me tho....

 

[21WhiteRubi]

Comes with the geometry correction brackets and I added the AEV steering damper. I did not need a front track bar. Have been very happy with it in the first three weeks since install. Unless you are doing some intense rock crawling I think it is hard to find a better lift for the money.

Is your axle centered after the install? My assumption would be that it is slightly off center as there is no correction supplied with the AEV kit for the front. The rear relocation bracket corrects the geometry of the track bar, but also keeps the rear pretty well centered. I would think your front would be off 0.5"-1" or so.

The Steer Smarts track bar is a nice addition and way more heavy duty than the OEM one. The adjustability is nice since you don't need to remove an end to adjust.

 

[Almost]

How are they? I was looking into these just yesterday and I found a good amount of posters across different forums saying the were too stiff if you DD.

In my opinion you can't beat them for the money. I don't have experience with them on a gladiator but I put them on my JKU with 233K and they're better then the last 3 sets I went through including rubicon take offs and some monroes. Yes they're stiffer, but I personally think the stock ones are too soft and the Bilsteins stiffness contributes to better on road manners.

 

[Gvsukids]

More reading out there. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/ready-for-a-lift.52369/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/lifting-leveling-what-should-i-do.22589/

https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/lifting-a-jt-gladiator.2391349/

 

[Swampman]

Well ,totally changed my plans here . Was trying to get the updated steering gear put on at dealer before i lift it , then was going to pick up the mopar kit when i picked up the jeep . Got jerked around big time {see poor dealer service post} .
So ive built a kit out of parts on ebay as i got a couple items and great deals i couldn't pass up . I want the falcon 3.3 shocks but i need to wait for my wallet to recover . This is what i've got coming .
Rock krawler 3 inch front springs
Synergy 2 inch rear springs
Front and rear lower control arms Teraflex Alpine IR's
Synergy front track bar
Synergy steering stabilizer relocation kit
Rock Krawler pro x triangulated rear control arms and bracket { gets rid of rear trac bar}
Synergy sector shaft/ track bar brace
Rock krawler bump stop kit .
Plus a cheap kit with extended sway bay links / shock mounts just until i can spend some more money on Falcon 3.3 .
Am i missing anything else i might want to consider ?
Im in about 2300 for all this .

Sponsored