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Complete Axle Upgrade Bible

Steven_B

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Strange.
I thaught all Diesel got wide axle and fender „tip” - mine overland is a bit strange:)
Wide axles / mojave stronger frame / front axle with cast iron knuckles.
73F87598-EAAC-44C0-A37B-C52EB3A7359D.jpeg


You can see your build sheet here:

VIN DECODER

I have:

2021 JEEP GLADIATOR OVERLAND 4X4

Dana M210 Wide Front Axle
3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
Dana M220 Wide Rear Axle
Wonder if because you are in Poland? Gladiator (and Wranglers) are bit different around the world. For example, in Australia the Rubicons have smaller tires and the standard Sport non-high clearance fenders.
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just_another_guy

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SHAFTS
Rubicon, Max Tow, and Mojave have thiccc boy tubes and are .75 wider per side. The diff inside is also offset.
!!!!You will need new shafts to run ARB lockers of any kind!!!!
ARB246 requires custom 35 Spline shafts
This reads as if the Rubicon, max tow, and Mojave cannot use an arb locker without custom axles. Isn't it just the Rubicon that has the issue due to the e-locker? From what I've been reading, the max tow & Mojave (or Rubicon with axles out of one of those two models) can use the rd245 without any problems.
 
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Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]
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This reads as if the Rubicon, max tow, and Mojave cannot use an arb locker without custom axles. Isn't it just the Rubicon that has the issue due to the e-locker? From what I've been reading, the max tow & Mojave (or Rubicon with axles out of one of those two models) can use the rd245 without any problems.
Good catch. This statement is 100 percent correct. The e locker in the rubicon requires the shafts due to it being offset more than a open or lsd diff. Even big name 4x4 shops don't know this.
 

DAVECS1

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"Sport and S, Willys, Overland, 80th, (non max tow), narrow axles. Still as strong at 32 Spline but must be ordered for ARB Super kits.
!!!!!! You CAN use stock shafts for ARB 245 front and rear!!!!!!!!
ARB246 requires custom 35 Spline shafts.
"

So if I am reading this correctly, I can put an ARB RD245 in my the front differential of my Max Tow and not have to change shafts or gears?

I put the yukon limited slip in the back diff and it went really easy, did not even have to change my shim stack. The truck actually seems smoother. Locker in the front would be great for the north woods.
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Sunnysideup

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I went with a similar direction...ARB front and rear... on the rear I went with the dutchman shafts and ARB locker... The front I went with RCV for a max tow w FAD... ARB 32 spline air locker- and keeping the disconnect. I have a max tow from factory... but the lengths were all different on the passenger side. RCV is now trying to figure out what parts I need- the stub shaft is not the right size from their kit... So now I have RCV on one side...and factory on the other, until right parts come in? I think the mechanic was on the phone for a couple hours trying to figure out why the parts are mixed up. I think the stub shaft I got was for a non-max tow... making it too short. Even though the box and label and part number shows I ordered max tow set of front axles. but the parts are 10 weeks out... so I guess I'm running the stock shafts on that side until the right rcv shafts come in. Hopefully it will all come together the right way soon!
 

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ProperMotionPowderCoat

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Just want to thank you for your videos and threads.

I have a Max Tow, to beef up the drivetrain I went


Front: 32 spline RCV w/ ARB Locker
Rear: 35 spline Dutchman w/ ARB locker
ARB Diff Covers Front and Rear
Artec Truss and Gusset Kit
Artec FAD Shield
Dynatrac HD Ball Joints
 

ProperMotionPowderCoat

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I went with a similar direction...ARB front and rear... on the rear I went with the dutchman shafts and ARB locker... The front I went with RCV for a max tow w FAD... ARB 32 spline air locker- and keeping the disconnect. I have a max tow from factory... but the lengths were all different on the passenger side. RCV is now trying to figure out what parts I need- the stub shaft is not the right size from their kit... So now I have RCV on one side...and factory on the other, until right parts come in? I think the mechanic was on the phone for a couple hours trying to figure out why the parts are mixed up. I think the stub shaft I got was for a non-max tow... making it too short. Even though the box and label and part number shows I ordered max tow set of front axles. but the parts are 10 weeks out... so I guess I'm running the stock shafts on that side until the right rcv shafts come in. Hopefully it will all come together the right way soon!

I also have a Max Tow and half a shaft in the front

77230AE4-FC94-47B5-9A75-A631C17ACB7D.jpeg
 
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Sunnysideup

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Yep... I've got a call into RCV to Dillion who is supposed to get back to me... it sounds like there are at least three of us where the max tow kit for RCV with FAd is not fitting right. Same issue with mine... I guess the center shaft is too long? Maybe it is the ARB carrier that moves the position slightly from stock that has it messed up? Anyway waiting for my call back...
 

DAVECS1

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So the ARB works ok wirh the stock shafts, in the front, correct?
 

Sunnysideup

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So the ARB works ok wirh the stock shafts, in the front, correct?
Yes... and one side of the RCV... something is different on the intermediate or middle shaft between the diff and FAD. The stock piece placed in that location will work with the RCV outer shaft... maybe- it will fit anyway. RCV is sending a different part D13362- to replace the part that doesn't work D13458. When I spoke to them today he said they have found more than 10 variations on Max Tow front ends! they had thought there were only 3 (rubicon, Sport, Max Tow)... but some of these front axles are assembled differently I guess.... Anyway- they might need to have parts measured to be sure you get the right ones when you order a kit.
 

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Sunnysideup

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I also have a Max Tow and half a shaft in the front

Jeep Gladiator Complete Axle Upgrade Bible 77230AE4-FC94-47B5-9A75-A631C17ACB7D
Are you still waiting on parts for yours?
I wonder if some max tow axles on the front were slightly different because they were just rubicon front ends with a carrier that offset it enough to use rubicon axles? Then maybe the others were different because they had a different carrier in the pumpkin changing the length of the middle shaft? Jeep sometimes has mixed parts up in crazy ways to lower production costs. I'm guessing max tow front ends might have two different carriers?
 

ProperMotionPowderCoat

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Are you still waiting on parts for yours?
I wonder if some max tow axles on the front were slightly different because they were just rubicon front ends with a carrier that offset it enough to use rubicon axles? Then maybe the others were different because they had a different carrier in the pumpkin changing the length of the middle shaft? Jeep sometimes has mixed parts up in crazy ways to lower production costs. I'm guessing max tow front ends might have two different carriers?
Yep still waiting. They said 8 weeks.

It’s been 5 weeks.

Asked for an update last week, but there was no change in dates.

Really disappointing cuz I’m on 40’s and don’t feel comfortable taking it off-roading without the axle shafts
 

Sunnysideup

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Yep still waiting. They said 8 weeks.

It’s been 5 weeks.

Asked for an update last week, but there was no change in dates.

Really disappointing cuz I’m on 40’s and don’t feel comfortable taking it off-roading without the axle shafts
Yeah... I'm on 37's but I've been waiting for driveshaft for the front same reason... my 2.5 inch lift ended up being a little over 4inches with the spacers I put in! ...so I noticed the drive shaft would not do well in an extended position on the front... with front disconnected it would be a failure at some point... so I'm doing easy stuff right now anyway. Driveshaft just came in: Adams 1350... so I'm real close... I'll probably do one of my harder trails this month anyway... I think the stock look pretty strong. It's the winter wheeling and snow hopping... and yanking others out that I'm worried about. On 40's I would be concerned too!
 

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Not sure why everyone is wondering about wide axles. It's only like 1 or 2 inches. Maybe that's enough to make people feel better?

I used to like the ARB in my front axle, it worked well for awhile, then stated burping gear oil into my Jeep, so I think I'm done with them. Running air lines also sucks. Electric lockers seem to be a little less problematic also. Going Dana UD44 or UD60 is really a better choice for the money. Why bother dealing with custom stuff, its fun, and maybe saves you a few bucks, but in the end you are not really better off. For a UD60 in the rear you can not beat it. Look at Currie, Dynatrack, etc. On the down low it is the best bang for the buck without a doubt.

Just my .02
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