Cutting and welding differential for caster

[JT Nate]

I still say solution for the OP is installation of a FAD and 6° caster. Despite his insistence that his JT has this and that ..blah blah. With the FAD the front driveshaft TaDo is eliminated. Cause when one is wheel in 4WD how fast does one really go I doubt I ever went much about 45mph in 4WD.

I’ve agreed to that. I plan on running a caster of 6 when it’s installed. Until then… I would rather sacrifice steering and save my driveshaft. The blah blah blah is important…

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[JT Nate]

Same here - done it many times. If you don't keep up some speed, you will get killed by the semis around here - I80/I35 means at times over half the traffic you see is fast moving trucks. Almost every winter accident on I80 east of me is semi-related.

Where at? I’m a fireman/ paramedic that’s covered I80 in Illinois. Sometime yes but usually they are plowed pretty good since we are a southwest suburb

 

[JT Nate]

Maybe only people who have lived it for over 50 years, commuted in it, and driven all sorts of cars and trucks in it really understand. You have to experience it. Crawling on the highway is a hazard as well as going too fast. We're not talking keeping up speed limits, we're talking being safe. It absolutely helps with steering - my former father in law did a great demonstration in their 4x4 IH vehicle years ago. He took it out where there was no traffic, but snow and snow pack (this was northern Iowa, not far from MN) and purposely put it into a bit of a slide in 2 wheel drive - then did the same thing in 4 wheel drive and when he was starting to lose steering, he accelerated a bit and the thing pulled itself straight. The front wheels pulled the rear and he regained steering control.

Hence why it’s more fun doing donuts in sand or a snow filled parking lot in 2nd lol

 

[JT Nate]

I know exactly the vibration you're referring to. Mine got better after I adjusted my front control arm length, but the best way to describe it is as a pulsating low hum that sort of feels like these old toys that we all had as kids.

Haha. Exactly. Each time I knocked down the caster and improved the operating angle, I thought it was gone. But it was just less and needed a smoother road. Then it would eat at me lol.

 

[JT Nate]

We still don't even know IF the aftermarket shaft is even required. I asked for the shock length and he gave me the make/model?

A quick search nets an AI result of:
Falcon 3.5" Lift Shock Extended Lengths:
Front 28.4"
Rear 32.3"

No aftermarket shaft is required for 28.4"?

Sorry those are the extended shock lengths. When doing research for a lift, Clayton (CS on the phone) stated I would need an after market CV (double cardan) drive shaft for extreme angles and also the slip for height of the lift. Metal cloak was the same for their 3.5 lift. They even make u click an option that says “you are a drive shaft expert and are declining a driveshaft” when u select the 3.5 lift haha.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Where at? I’m a fireman/ paramedic that’s covered I80 in Illinois. Sometime yes but usually they are plowed pretty good since we are a southwest suburb

Typically around Newton (Iowa) or east of there. At times west of Newton. Open country, HILLY

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

It's as simple as it gets, 2 wire connection. Ground to ground and positive to the aux wire by the battery. It's low amp draw so aux 3 or 4 will work.

It's not much more complicated this, but I found a diagram for OP. Looks to be 3 wires...power, ground, and a control/switch wire...basically a relay. There's also a 4th which appears to be for sending back a signal/position, but that wouldn't apply.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Also mentioned this to OP, but maybe someone can confirm: if you don't have factory FAD, is the outer shaft a different part? Because for those that don't know...FAD uses a plastic sleeve that sits between the inner and outer shaft so that it's not metal on metal grinding when it's disconnected.

But if you don't have FAD...they don't care (at least, when I upgraded to the 1350 shaft, I had to discard the plastic sleeve...).

 

[WILDHOBO]

Adjustable control arms would do the trick. Then you can dial it in to the exact caster you want to run. As well as keeping your axle centered.

The axle is centered with the track bar, not control arms. Btw. I’m not being rude, and neither was @Stan H. You started a thread asking how to rotate your C’s to avoid buying a pro rock 44. People just tried to help steer you away from that, as we’re not sure you’d even save any money. And it’s high risk. In my opinion, forget the caster and just rotate your axle favoring pinion angle until your vibration is gone. You can still drive fine with less than a 6 degree caster. At 4.5” in the front on mine, and 6.5” in the rear, pinion angle is more important than caster. Just find a happy medium.

 

[WILDHOBO]

All this for a vibration at 60 mph?

>Take off your lift and get it aligned with stock susp and wheels / tires and drive it.

>If you wheel it hard, get a custom Dana 60 front axle with locking hubs. Spend the big boy $. Done.

>Adding a FAD???.... Is going backwards. 100 %. That FAD is just another break or fail point. POS.

Next year I will dump my FAD on my JTM and solidify it.

Good luck.

Before you go to a one piece axle, the seals aren’t designed to handle a one piece shaft on passenger, and most end up with axle seal leaks. I wheel extremely hard and have had no FAD issues. I do however have a monster fad skid, as the factory one wasn’t going to protect it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Is going back to the OE front driveline not a possibility?

Using the teraflex high angle Rzeppa joint might be a good plan.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I plan to install RCV axle shafts. I haven't looked to see if they are avaliable yet, but it's a year away. Anyway, plan to install a solid right shaft right thru the FAD. CV joints at the knuckle end like I have now.

I suppose I will need a tazer to adjust / program the computer. IDK.

I will cross that bridge then.

Thank you

Better to use two piece RCV’s and keep the FAD. RCV will tell you the same thing. They recommend two piece.

 

[WILDHOBO]

shoot... 60mph in 4 wheel is a common winter occurrence in MN lol

And CO.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

And CO.

I'll admit I'm usually one of the fast er drivers, but Coloradians take the cake. Dry, wet, snowy, doesn't matter, ya'll are FLYIN down those mountain roads.

I imagine brake pad sales are high.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I'll admit I'm usually one of the fast er drivers, but Coloradians take the cake. Dry, wet, snowy, doesn't matter, ya'll are FLYIN down those mountain roads.

I imagine brake pad sales are high.

We gear down. Rental cars use brakes.

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