Did I just join the misfire club? Yes I did!

[Beat Army]

I had an odd engine issue recently and I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Under hard acceleration and high rpm (getting on the freeway with cars on my tail) I got a flashing check engine light. I immediately exited and as I slowed down the engine shook / missed / barely ran. Shut down the jeep, waited 15 minutes. Restarted, everything was fine. No malfunction lights, ran fine. I drove it for a week and was unable to repeat the issue…until yesterday…it happened again…exact same circumstances as the first time. This time I shut it down and didn’t even wait….restarted it in less than a minute and everything was magically resolved. Like rebooting a pc or a cell phone.
Obviously I’ll take it to a dealer but wtf…..anyone ever had this happen? Given the circumstances it seems like a logic or sensor issue. Just weird.

see update below. Passenger side intake camshaft and rockers replaced.

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[Hootbro]

Sounds like when the VVT kicks in, it is not liking something.

 

[PuddleJumper]

VVT engagement should be earlier than 5k so I'm convinced its not a cam failure on the high rpm lobes. If i had to guess I'd say a spark plug, coil pack or injector isn't keeping up at high rpm and is on its way out. Plus cam failures tend to be on the low rpm lobe side or at least thats what the pictures look like. So you would have a tick at idle. But if you don't then the cam hasn't eaten itself, yet. I'd bet on injector or spark in this case.

 

[Lunentucker]

This is exactly what mine was doing, and it was 100% repeatable under similar conditions. Hard acceleration under a decent load. Either uphill or from a stop.
Mine did it in the far left lane of an eight lane at about 75 mph and scared the scrap out of us.

It threw codes sometimes. Sometimes they'd clear themselves after a while, and a few times they'd stick.

I took it in for a PCM flash from a TSB and they began the process of trying to sus out the issue at the same time.
Mine was always cylinder 5, IIRC.
The agreed upon common sense plan was to swap the plugs and coil packs from the adjacent cylinder.
We did that, and it has been flawless ever since.
Was it the PCM update?
Was it a bad wiring connection?
No idea. But i's never done it again in over 20,000 miles since.

 

[JeepCares]

I had an odd engine issue recently and I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Under hard acceleration and high rpm (getting on the freeway with cars on my tail) I got a flashing check engine light. I immediately exited and as I slowed down the engine shook / missed / barely ran. Shut down the jeep, waited 15 minutes. Restarted, everything was fine. No malfunction lights, ran fine. I drove it for a week and was unable to repeat the issue…until yesterday…it happened again…exact same circumstances as the first time. This time I shut it down and didn’t even wait….restarted it in less than a minute and everything was magically resolved. Like rebooting a pc or a cell phone.
Obviously I’ll take it to a dealer but wtf…..anyone ever had this happen? Given the circumstances it seems like a logic or sensor issue. Just weird.

Our team would like to take a deeper look into these concerns for you. When you get the chance, can you please send us a private message including the current mileage of your Jeep vehicle, so we can see where to best provide you with our assistance?

Dakota
Jeep Cares

 

[hjdca]

If you are under warranty bring it to the dealer. If not, One thing I would recommend is to download the JSCAN software and buy a license for your VIN - $30, buy the OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner (approx. $130 on Amazon), buy the security bypass Cable Adaptor Fits for Chrysler 12+8 Programming Cable Connector cable (approx $20 on Amazon), and you can monitor the live data for misfires and cam misbehavior. Note: you do not need the cable if you already have a Tazer. First use the JSCAN todDownload all the error codes and analyze them. You will know right away if it is a bad coil and spark plug, injector issue, etc... In addition, if it is a "hard part" issue - like a cam or rockers, you can use the live data to diagnose the issue. You setup your live data, recreate the issue, and take a screenshot of your phone while it is happening... Here is what my data looked like when I figured out my intake cam was bad.... Misfires all at once, big cam error on the intake cam...

 

[DBravo]

VVT engagement should be earlier than 5k so I'm convinced its not a cam failure on the high rpm lobes. If i had to guess I'd say a spark plug, coil pack or injector isn't keeping up at high rpm and is on its way out. Plus cam failures tend to be on the low rpm lobe side or at least thats what the pictures look like. So you would have a tick at idle. But if you don't then the cam hasn't eaten itself, yet. I'd bet on injector or spark in this case.

I had a cam phaser sensor that went and the symptom you describe was how it started.
Eventually, the check engine light stayed on solid and the stop/start system became unavailable. I could reset it with my code reader, but it would pop back on eventually - usually after a hot restart. Part of my troubleshooting was checking voltages on both batteries separately (with the aux battery disconnected from the main - both were good). The code led me to the Cam Position area. Mine was the passenger side rear. Code reader will show "P0023" which points to the Cam Position actuator. The tech confirmed Cam Phaser Sensor failure by swapping the driver side and passenger side and then replaced the faulty one. I have since found that I could have purchased two new ones online for $20-$25 each and performed the repair myself without too much trouble. Being that it was the first issue I had in 82k miles, I wanted to have the full diagnostic workup just to be sure.
No further issues and now at 86k miles.

 

[Beat Army]

VVT engagement should be earlier than 5k so I'm convinced its not a cam failure on the high rpm lobes. If i had to guess I'd say a spark plug, coil pack or injector isn't keeping up at high rpm and is on its way out. Plus cam failures tend to be on the low rpm lobe side or at least thats what the pictures look like. So you would have a tick at idle. But if you don't then the cam hasn't eaten itself, yet. I'd bet on injector or spark in this case.

I don’t think I have a tick at idle.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I don’t think I have a tick at idle.

You don’t, cus you’d notice if you did. It’s very apparent

 

[Beat Army]

If you are under warranty bring it to the dealer. If not, One thing I would recommend is to download the JSCAN software and buy a license for your VIN - $30, buy the OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner (approx. $130 on Amazon), buy the security bypass Cable Adaptor Fits for Chrysler 12+8 Programming Cable Connector cable (approx $20 on Amazon), and you can monitor the live data for misfires and cam misbehavior. Note: you do not need the cable if you already have a Tazer. First use the JSCAN todDownload all the error codes and analyze them. You will know right away if it is a bad coil and spark plug, injector issue, etc... In addition, if it is a "hard part" issue - like a cam or rockers, you can use the live data to diagnose the issue. You setup your live data, recreate the issue, and take a screenshot of your phone while it is happening... Here is what my data looked like when I figured out my intake cam was bad.... Misfires all at once, big cam error on the intake cam...

It’s under warranty (30k miles and 2.5 years) and I’m going to take it in, but I have the code reader and bypass cable in my Amazon cart. This is useful info. Thx.

 

[Beat Army]

I had a cam phaser sensor that went and the symptom you describe was how it started.
Eventually, the check engine light stayed on solid and the stop/start system became unavailable. I could reset it with my code reader, but it would pop back on eventually - usually after a hot restart. Part of my troubleshooting was checking voltages on both batteries separately (with the aux battery disconnected from the main - both were good). The code led me to the Cam Position area. Mine was the passenger side rear. Code reader will show "P0023" which points to the Cam Position actuator. The tech confirmed Cam Phaser Sensor failure by swapping the driver side and passenger side and then replaced the faulty one. I have since found that I could have purchased two new ones online for $20-$25 each and performed the repair myself without too much trouble. Being that it was the first issue I had in 82k miles, I wanted to have the full diagnostic workup just to be sure.
No further issues and now at 86k miles.

Good info! Also good to hear you made it to 86k with what seems like a cheap fix.

 

[Beat Army]

Our team would like to take a deeper look into these concerns for you. When you get the chance, can you please send us a private message including the current mileage of your Jeep vehicle, so we can see where to best provide you with our assistance?

Dakota
Jeep Cares

pm sent. Its under warranty so I’ll take it to a dealer.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

I had an odd engine issue recently and I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Under hard acceleration and high rpm (getting on the freeway with cars on my tail) I got a flashing check engine light. I immediately exited and as I slowed down the engine shook / missed / barely ran. Shut down the jeep, waited 15 minutes. Restarted, everything was fine. No malfunction lights, ran fine. I drove it for a week and was unable to repeat the issue…until yesterday…it happened again…exact same circumstances as the first time. This time I shut it down and didn’t even wait….restarted it in less than a minute and everything was magically resolved. Like rebooting a pc or a cell phone.
Obviously I’ll take it to a dealer but wtf…..anyone ever had this happen? Given the circumstances it seems like a logic or sensor issue. Just weird.

My 2020 with 61,000 miles did the same thing.
I accelerated to pass a car - check engine light came on ,start & stop not available ? I was going over 70 duh.
Pulled over shut her off ,restarted everything was fine.
A week later same scenario took to dealer. Lifters wiped out cam .No prewarning ,no previous ticking.
I did baby her until those times to pass a slower car.
Maybe thats why it didnt show up earlier in its life.

 

[Beat Army]

My 2020 with 61,000 miles did the same thing.
I accelerated to pass a car - check engine light came on ,start & stop not available ? I was going over 70 duh.
Pulled over shut her off ,restarted everything was fine.
A week later same scenario took to dealer. Lifters wiped out cam .No prewarning ,no previous ticking.
I did baby her until those times to pass a slower car.
Maybe thats why it didnt show up earlier in its life.

did you keep it after they fixed it? To me, a sensor or electronic issue is more forgivable than a mechanical failure. If mine needs open heart surgery I’m not sure how I’ll feel about trying to keep it long term.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

did you keep it after they fixed it? To me, a sensor or electronic issue is more forgivable than a mechanical failure. If mine needs open heart surgery I’m not sure how I’ll feel about trying to keep it long term.

When they said its a normal repair we do 3 a week.
Not normal at 61,000 miles .I lost all confidence .
Traded for a 2024

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