Diesel Aux Battery - How do I delete it?

[kilroy173]

The aux switches don't run off the aux battery.
that warning simply means the battery voltage is low. And that COULD be the main battery.
In fact, my wife had that exact same error on her JLU more than once after it sat for a couple of days.
The kicker? Her Jeep has no aux battery as it's a 4xe. The MAIN battery was low so the aux switches were disabled.
I charged it and things have been fine.

Both batteries run all accessories at all times. They are connected in parallel.

Nothing has anything to do with remote start, either - not sure where that comes from, but totally unrelated to anything.

You may have had an aux battery going, but don't connect the aux switch message to the aux battery - it's only a name -
Auxiliary switches run from both batteries.
The auxiliary battery is just that, it's not what operates the switches.

In your case, it was likely the auxiliary battery was going.

Ya I believe the aux battery was pulling from the main causing the voltage to be low. When I was getting the aux switch temporarily disabled issue, the remote start was also not working. Either way I have no issues since so I'll call it a win.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Ya I believe the aux battery was pulling from the main causing the voltage to be low. When I was getting the aux switch temporarily disabled issue, the remote start was also not working. Either way I have no issues since so I'll call it a win.

Yeah, you had one of those cases. Remote start will be disabled for multiple reasons - low voltage or a number of other things.
It's all working now - it's a win.

 

[ATX_Jeeper]

If your Aux is going bad, there is a reason. I would suggest finding the problem first before deleting. How do you know the Aux is going bad? The only way to tell would be to isolate it and test it.

I went through this same thing when I bough this Jeep used a couple years ago. ESS goes from not ready, to not ready / battery charging. Last time I replaced the aux, drove for a week hoping the error would go away and then replaced / upgraded the main to H7. Replacing the main resolved it.

The same thing is happening now. This time, I've charged it until full (reading on the charger) and it wont come out of the not ready state even after weeks of driving. I assume this means the aux will charge up and read correctly with volts but might not have the amps due to degrated cells. Its just a theory. Since the main and aux would need to be pulled to test. I'll just delete the aux and replace the main if needed. Hence my question as to which aux delete method is best.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I went through this same thing when I bough this Jeep used a couple years ago. ESS goes from not ready, to not ready / battery charging. Last time I replaced the aux, drove for a week hoping the error would go away and then replaced / upgraded the main to H7. Replacing the main resolved it.

The same thing is happening now. This time, I've charged it until full (reading on the charger) and it wont come out of the not ready state even after weeks of driving. I assume this means the aux will charge up and read correctly with volts but might not have the amps due to degrated cells. Its just a theory. Since the main and aux would need to be pulled to test. I'll just delete the aux and replace the main if needed. Hence my question as to which aux delete method is best.

At least charge and have the main battery tested. I can't even remember how many times I've worked to help someone on Facebook who say "but it's new" for either a battery, starter or alternator only to find out there 5 month old battery, starter or alternator was bad.
New doesn't mean good. Please don't assume - test it.
If the main tests just fine, then you can at least go in KNOWING and not doing all of this only to find - oops......

I also hope you fully charged BOTH the aux and NEW main battery before installing the new battery. As FCA says - "an IBS should be put on a fully charged battery"

A good charger will help determine if the aux is bad, also - because a GOOD charger in AGM mode actually exercises the battery - and will show a failing battery.

Your call, of course!

Again, IF it was mine and I was of a mindset to just "delete" the aux battery, I would do all of the above to make really sure I was relying on a known GOOD main battery, not assuming (because these will start on the aux battery only, believe it or not) and I'd just disconnect the aux, and pull F42. I wouldn't bother pulling all of the cables and cleaning up at first - if ever - because it always leaves me an out if I trade and so on.

I'd start simple- and if I was later convinced of my plans, then I would clean things up - if I was really sure of the future my plans for it.

 

[nanook12]

So with the diesel, you are attaching the aux battery cables to the main battery and not pulling any fuses. Unless I missed something?

 

[kilroy173]

So with the diesel, you are attaching the aux battery cables to the main battery and not pulling any fuses. Unless I missed something?

I just disconnected the cables from the battery and taped them off and removed the fuse. No issues

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just disconnected the cables from the battery and taped them off and removed the fuse. No issues

If you want to get REALLY simple - just remove the aux battery ground cable from the main ground cable at the IBS and leave the aux battery in place - you can then remove the aux battery at your leisure later if you wish.
Pulling that aux battery ground cable off the main totally disables the aux battery. All you "have" to do is disconnect one cable.
Or, you can turn the wheels a hard left, pull back the fender liner and disconnect it down there if you wish.

In any case, yes, tape off the cable ends, no matter how you do it unless you fully strip those cables out.

 

[Jefe1018]

Or, you can turn the wheels a hard left, pull back the fender liner and disconnect it down there if you wish.

Probably the only thing easy on the ecodiesel is the battery swap... you can get it from the top after taking the main one off.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Probably the only thing easy on the ecodiesel is the battery swap... you can get it from the top after taking the main one off.

Oops, yeah, the diesel - forgot, battery in different spot, yeah.

 

[Jefe1018]

Oops, yeah, the diesel - forgot, battery in different spot, yeah.

Throw a lift and 37's and you need a ladder to get to it.. but not too bad of a job as far as jobs go.

 

[nanook12]

23 JTRD, when I pulled the Aux battery, it was reading a volt lower than the main. Put the charger on it and it would only go up to 12.3 and immediately start dropping off when you pulled the charger. This AGM battery is only 1.5yrs old and is junk, the ESS would only work if you drove it for a long distance first… Factory installed junk battery! Question now remains whether I can salvage the main battery…

 

[ShadowsPapa]

23 JTRD, when I pulled the Aux battery, it was reading a volt lower than the main. Put the charger on it and it would only go up to 12.3 and immediately start dropping off when you pulled the charger. This AGM battery is only 1.5yrs old and is junk, the ESS would only work if you drove it for a long distance first… Factory installed junk battery! Question now remains whether I can salvage the main battery…

Jeep 12 volt batteries are the subject of discussions everywhere Jeep people are. Even on the 4xe forums and they don't even have an aux battery, yet their 12 can fail from first week on out.

I still believe part of it is parasitic draw coupled with short or infrequent drives

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