TheSolarWizard
Well-Known Member
Stock gearing 39” KM3s CA to NM & back
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Mine with stock 3.73’s and 35’s wouldn’t get that mileage. I averaged 20-21 on the highway, same as I do with 4.56’s and 35’s.Stock gearing 39” KM3s CA to NM & back
What tires psi are you running? Your mpg appears kinda low.Run from Austin to W TX. Flat road, zero wind, cruise set at 75.
This is with 4.56’s and Yokohama 35’s. Gearing calculator I used was dead on for speed/rpm with 4.56’s. Everything is properly adjusted for gearing, tire size, and shift points with my Tazer.
35” Yokohama G003’s at 30 psi on 17” Warn MoonsaultsWhat tires psi are you running? Your mpg appears kinda low.
What Gladiator has 31s? A sport? My Overland came with 32.2” tires. The Mohave has 33s. Genuinely curious.Interesting thread, I don’t have a diesel but have had Dodge trucks in the past, couple things I would consider, this diesel is not like a diesel from 10 years ago, it revs way higher, 4500 or so as I recall, also if you can run 37” tires with no penalty I would think Jeep would have installed the 3.45 ratio in the non Rubicon diesels with the 31” tires, they are going for best economy after all.
My California edition, which is basically a Sport S came with 245/75r17s with is basically a 31.What Gladiator has 31s? A sport? My Overland came with 32.2” tires. The Mohave has 33s. Genuinely curious.
I’ve chimed in on this previously. I’d say you haven’t had enough time behind the wheel. I was under the same impression. Then stubbornly was like oh a tube will just make up the difference. Although the tune greatly helped and is manageable. You honestly need regearing, not that it isn’t something one can get away with putting off or dealing with the downfalls. So much left untapped here in the powerband that a proper 4.56 would greatly improve.I’ll chime in, on 37’s there is no need for gears. If you think so, you haven’t driven a diesel on 37’s.
Here is my drive home from Idaho back to Vegas in October when I picked her up with 37’s. I now average 19 in mostly city driving and can still pull my 3500lb boat uphill with cruise on 70 on the steepest hills in the vegas valley without busting a sweat. I doubt 4.10’s would really give you a better bang for your buck.
Not sure if my experience counts as experience but nonetheless, OP might
be smarter than me.
You think an ecodiesel JT needs 4.56 gears to run 37's correctly?I’ve chimed in on this previously. I’d say you haven’t had enough time behind the wheel. I was under the same impression. Then stubbornly was like oh a tube will just make up the difference. Although the tune greatly helped and is manageable. You honestly need regearing, not that it isn’t something one can get away with putting off or dealing with the downfalls. So much left untapped here in the powerband that a proper 4.56 would greatly improve.
I don't know, I've driven this thing everywhere. Towed my boat to Texas and back from Las Vegas. I've been to Idaho and back, long steep hills everywhere I go. Not a damn complaint.Gearing debates are literally the thing that might break the internet . Mine is a diesel and I feel the opposite. I want the truck to shift effortlessly and not run around under load at 12-1300 RPM hoping it shifts down. With the hills here in the Seattle area it is a stark difference stock to 37's. Even on a diesel.
You are hilarious. A Jeep owner arguing about time and money when it comes to a Jeep.You think an ecodiesel JT needs 4.56 gears to run 37's correctly?
This silly argument might just break the internet.
I've got over 10,000 miles on the clock, about 3,000 towing and plenty of 4L time - it is fine. 4Lo is almost unusable at this point - only for the steepest and the slowest of crawling.
Edit: I'm not arguing that it wouldn't 'help' - I'm arguing that the money, time and effort would be for a negligible gain and likely even a hit on MPG.
That was a long winded and kind of snarky response to only admit you’ve still not done the change but really think it’ll help because you have money to burn because Jeep.You are hilarious. A Jeep owner arguing about time and money when it comes to a Jeep.
I am not going to argue about this when dealing with the gearing. I am staying from my experience when dealing with my rig, my weight, and running 37” myself. Two areas need to be worked on. Have tried to go the tune route with GDE and although it helped. Regearing is needed simple and period. As well as better braking performance, ie upgrade. I won’t argue about spending money on a Jeep. I’m beyond this in my mods equaling At least the costs of the Jeep in it. I didn’t get a Jeep to save money. That’s what a Hyundai is for and a car that gets 40+mpg. :laughs: I constantly stay in 7gear when before I would have been in 8gear. I can’t say 100% as I haven’t done the gearing yet. It’s set for the future. But will comment on past experiences. I will not only regain drivability with shifting, low pedal response; IE off-road ability and ability to climb large inclines. But will see mileage increases on Hwy and elsewhere where it would kick into 8th where I am constantly seeing 6th/7th now. Drivability is the game. I didn’t say it was necessary as neither are running 37s in a Jeep. Both work fine but at what cost in performance and drivability? Drop your costs argument as it’s nonsense as one could do the gear change themselves with a little help and education.