Sponsored

Driver's Door Electrical Connection

Higher_Ground

Well-Known Member
First Name
J. T.
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Threads
6
Messages
467
Reaction score
338
Location
South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gator Sport S
The other thing that bothers me is that while it's always the smaller pins, it doesn't seem to be consistent as to which pins are bent (and why only those, when adjacent ones are straight).

Also, their exact words in the bulletin:

"On Jeep Wrangler, the doors are designed to be removed by the customer. This unique feature requires unconventional operation of the doors electrical systems. The JL/JT has a variety of new components located in the door compared to the outgoing JK platform. This includes the Blind Spot Mirrors, Passive Entry System Handles, and a Power Mirror Switch. "

So I wouldn't let them get away with saying the doors aren't meant to be taken off.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,091
Reaction score
34,572
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Would be interesting to quantify things - you may find a dozen or more links, but often, as with the steering and engine issues, it's the same folks in every thread. So it looks like 100 people, but it's 20 over and over. Then quantify those who have NO problems - have taken the doors off and put them back without issue.
If you can quantify things, you have a better chance at resolution or change, (and one could be the other)

If it turns out it's a vocal few on every thread, then it's not likely to go far, especially if many hundreds have no issues at all.

I am NOT saying or even suggesting that's the case, only that with the internet, people complain about what doesn't work and seek out a venue to get their troubles seen while those with no issues don't seek out forums to say "my truck has no issues".

Forums are hospitals, clinics, so you have to temper what you see with the knowledge they are full of problems.

It's a lot of work - but if you can get numbers - you'll have a great chance at getting things changed.
IF I were to venture a guess, I'd say, like others have, that the numbers are high as far as failures or "bent pins". They must be - to have a TSB about it!
I wonder - do the 2021 have the exact same connectors?

I have yet to put my doors back on - so, we'll see how it goes for me. I'm not going to even guess at this point, other than being so used to electrical connections of all types, including micro connections in notebook computers when I did board-level computer repairs, I may have a chance at success - we'll see!
As far as the lever and lock mechanism - I'm not one to allow that sort of thing to guide a connector into place........... I just don't, never have. I will be using both hands even if it takes 5 minutes per connection.
 

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
Yes-that is one of the downfaults of the cover; top must be removed. I have tried with just the freedom panels in, and it works based on how it fit, although it wasn't rain tested. They say you can put it on with the doors on (and roof off) and it still works, but I can't confirm that.
Yep had I known better I would have gotten the raingear one. Fully supports all configurations. No top with doors should be no problem on there with a little bit of creativity to where you clip it on at.

I know for the soft top if it had like 2 more inches on all sides it would fit perfectly without really cranking down on the straps.
 

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
And It happened to me. Luckily I don't have all of the safety stuff on mine so I am not losing much. Locks, lights, and windows still work, but I lost power mirror control. No clue when it could have happened though since I don't think I have adjusted them since December when I had only taken the doors off once.

I have probably used the plug to disconnect the doors less than 10 times, since I tend to just leave them off. I will probably look in there later to see if anything is off with the pins, but I for sure won't be fixing this.

This issue might even motivate me to do a project I have had in the back of my head. I want to get some mirrors that can adjust for towing, like a Ram 1500 style probably, nothing crazy and mount them to the A-Pillar/Cowl in a similar way to the for Bronco. I would they just permanently remove the stock ones. I was thinking something like one of the brackets that is used for cube lights might be a good starting point on this.
 

Sponsored

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,091
Reaction score
34,572
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
I haven't have problems.... yet, but did discover that there are some tricks to reassembly as far as that connector. Someone said "the lever pulls it in" - while that's true, you, the human, still must manually guide the pins into the holes before that thing pulls them in. If you haven't got it right and use that lever, things will bend. The design flaw I see is that unlike many similar connectors the edges of the "holes" where the female part of the connectors sit is flat, squared at the end - not "funnel shaped" or beveled at all like many similar connectors. That coupled with some movement of the male pins in the other half means that some may be started into the plastic shell hole while others are at the edge, not quite in, and if you push with any force at all to get that lever to engage and pull it in, BEND.
I spend 3 or 4 minutes per side movind and feeling how things might be going - actually made a couple of test attempts on each side before deciding - yeah, it "feels" ok, go ahead and advance it in until the lever engages.
Like I say - haven't done it "5 times" or 10 times, but I did see how it could happen, and having crappy experience with other hard plastic shell connectors in other vehicles over the years, and looking close at how the female part is made - no bevel or guide - I decided it would be an easy one to mess up if not really careful.
 

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
I haven't have problems.... yet, but did discover that there are some tricks to reassembly as far as that connector. Someone said "the lever pulls it in" - while that's true, you, the human, still must manually guide the pins into the holes before that thing pulls them in. If you haven't got it right and use that lever, things will bend. The design flaw I see is that unlike many similar connectors the edges of the "holes" where the female part of the connectors sit is flat, squared at the end - not "funnel shaped" or beveled at all like many similar connectors. That coupled with some movement of the male pins in the other half means that some may be started into the plastic shell hole while others are at the edge, not quite in, and if you push with any force at all to get that lever to engage and pull it in, BEND.
I spend 3 or 4 minutes per side movind and feeling how things might be going - actually made a couple of test attempts on each side before deciding - yeah, it "feels" ok, go ahead and advance it in until the lever engages.
Like I say - haven't done it "5 times" or 10 times, but I did see how it could happen, and having crappy experience with other hard plastic shell connectors in other vehicles over the years, and looking close at how the female part is made - no bevel or guide - I decided it would be an easy one to mess up if not really careful.
Thanks for the research on this. Thinking of it I might have relied a little to much on the lever for this. I probably could be taking things a little more gentle at times. I have a feeling that this time of year I might be taking them off and on a lot more times since I am now getting some cold mornings.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,091
Reaction score
34,572
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Thanks for the research on this. Thinking of it I might have relied a little to much on the lever for this. I probably could be taking things a little more gentle at times. I have a feeling that this time of year I might be taking them off and on a lot more times since I am now getting some cold mornings.
Likely on for the rest of this year. Woke up to frosted/frozen plants, white yard and roofs - temp said 35 - and that's frost weather.
High of 59, low of 35 again tonight.
I figure I'll just be taking them off when there's a longer than a few days stretch as they aren't light - esp with my back, and the risk to the paint with one person putting them on trying to get the hinges lined up. Fun - but is it always worth it. For me, only if there's a week or better of no rain and good temps. Iowa's summers are hot and humid, AC time then. But a few days ago when it was 80 and almost no humidity, it felt COOL in there once I hit the highway.
We also have a ton of wind - and I mean wind - not 5mph wimpy stuff, it's one thing when the wind is calm, but when the wind is 15 with gusts 25, meh, not as much fun.

I'll be adding the passive entry which I'm sure involves those very connections as you have to change the door wiring harness, will keep watch and see if there's anything else I can find when I do that.

But I'm so bloody far behind on shop work for others, we'll see how soon I get to that.
 

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
Likely on for the rest of this year. Woke up to frosted/frozen plants, white yard and roofs - temp said 35 - and that's frost weather.
High of 59, low of 35 again tonight.
I figure I'll just be taking them off when there's a longer than a few days stretch as they aren't light - esp with my back, and the risk to the paint with one person putting them on trying to get the hinges lined up. Fun - but is it always worth it. For me, only if there's a week or better of no rain and good temps. Iowa's summers are hot and humid, AC time then. But a few days ago when it was 80 and almost no humidity, it felt COOL in there once I hit the highway.
We also have a ton of wind - and I mean wind - not 5mph wimpy stuff, it's one thing when the wind is calm, but when the wind is 15 with gusts 25, meh, not as much fun.

I'll be adding the passive entry which I'm sure involves those very connections as you have to change the door wiring harness, will keep watch and see if there's anything else I can find when I do that.

But I'm so bloody far behind on shop work for others, we'll see how soon I get to that.
And im complaining of lows of 50, lol. still 70-80s here for a while in the afternoons

Your weather reminds me of why I left ohio, lol.

I get having a backlog of work, but it will be cool to see as you research this more. Well untill the aftermarket makes some kind of plug to account for this issue. Its only a matter of time...
 

Ravenron

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ron
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
215
Reaction score
239
Location
Peyton, CO
Vehicle(s)
2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
Occupation
Engineer
FWIW...the OP and others being charged by the dealer need to find a new dealer. I had the same issue recently on the passenger side front door. Contacted the dealer I purchased from and made an appointment. They diagnosed a bent pin and fixed the problem. All under warranty with no hassle at all.

This is called good faith and how you build loyalty. I will definitely continue to use this dealer for service, parts and future purchases.

Shop around - there's bound to be someone near you who wants to earn your business...
 

Sponsored

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
FWIW...the OP and others being charged by the dealer need to find a new dealer. I had the same issue recently on the passenger side front door. Contacted the dealer I purchased from and made an appointment. They diagnosed a bent pin and fixed the problem. All under warranty with no hassle at all.

This is called good faith and how you build loyalty. I will definitely continue to use this dealer for service, parts and future purchases.

Shop around - there's bound to be someone near you who wants to earn your business...
Thats good to know. Did they replace anything or just put the pin back in place?
 

Ravenron

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ron
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
215
Reaction score
239
Location
Peyton, CO
Vehicle(s)
2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
Occupation
Engineer

Higher_Ground

Well-Known Member
First Name
J. T.
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Threads
6
Messages
467
Reaction score
338
Location
South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gator Sport S
Given what we've learned, I wonder if it's at all possible (or worth the hassle) to modify the receptacle. It seems like you could put a bevel on the connections and/or grease the pins?

As long as it's just bent and doesn't break, this is an annoying but manageable problem. But once it breaks... and you have to buy a new plug/harness it's a different story.

I was on the fence about taking the top/doors off this weekend and just decided to take the freedom panels in and roll the windows down. Equal parts apprehensive and intolerant of cold wind. Even with doors and rear top in place I threw on a jacket :)
 

eaglerugby04

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
12
Messages
1,787
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Northern South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
Gator Rubicon Gladiator, Toyota Prius, Toyota Sienna
Occupation
Network Security
Given what we've learned, I wonder if it's at all possible (or worth the hassle) to modify the receptacle. It seems like you could put a bevel on the connections and/or grease the pins?

As long as it's just bent and doesn't break, this is an annoying but manageable problem. But once it breaks... and you have to buy a new plug/harness it's a different story.

I was on the fence about taking the top/doors off this weekend and just decided to take the freedom panels in and roll the windows down. Equal parts apprehensive and intolerant of cold wind. Even with doors and rear top in place I threw on a jacket :)
I like the idea of grease. Could be enough to keep the connection going in solid.

It was cold a lot of this weekend. Only time I left the house it was 50 out and it was a huge nope for taking out the already doorless JT.

Bestop core doors can't come out quick enough...
 

Gatorac

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jim
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
134
Reaction score
179
Location
Bradenton FL
Vehicle(s)
Sport S Max Tow, Mazda Miata, Audi SQ5
Occupation
Motor-sports Event Manager
If you have 2 bent pins, just get a 2 pin connector for those wires. That would be a cheap, easy fix. You wouldn't have a repeat problem. I know this doesn't address the manufacturers responsibility for a suspect design but does eliminate an expensive dealer repair.
Sponsored

 
 



Top