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Ecodiesel power derating as temps rise?

Rusty PW

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Rusty PW

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rule of thumb for oil pressure x2 the rpm. 2000 rpm=40 psi, not exact but gives your idea of what to look for.
Old rule of thumb. 1 psi for every 100 rpms. 10 psi for every 1,000 rpms. But now you have a variable pressure oil pump. It will change oil pressure according to engine load and rpm. Something else to think about.
 

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I would think 1/2" would be the ticket? That's -8AN though?
So this is where I was off… I thought that -8an was 3/8’s
-10an was 1/2”
-12an 5/8”

my bad… ??
 

Rusty PW

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I would think 1/2" would be the ticket? That's -8AN though?
On my Nismo. I'm using a 34 row Setrab oil cooler and -10 fittings and hose. Cold starts and rpms over 4,000. I will see over 100 psi. Hot idle is about 37 psi. The oil cooler is between the intercooler and radiator. during a 30 minute session on the track. I used to go into limp mode after 5 minutes. Now I can do the whole session. I'm thinking on doing the same set up on my JT.
 

Rusty PW

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AN sizing chart.

"
Jeep Gladiator Ecodiesel power derating as temps rise? 1659669567907
 

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AN sizing chart.

"
1659669567907.webp
Yes, I read today that the -# is how many 1/16". -16 is 1" and -8 is 1/2". Day wasn't wasted when you can learn something new!
 

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Yes, I read today that the -# is how many 1/16". -16 is 1" and -8 is 1/2". Day want wasted when you can learn something new!
Yea, once you know how the AN system is based. It's easy.
Using AN fittings and SS hose is $$$. Have spent a ton of money on that over the years. I get most of my AN fittings and hose from Jegs. They seem to have want I want most of the time. Sometimes I go to Pegasus Autoracing
 

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I was looking around the shop this morning and found left over hose from an Amsoil remote filter/bypass kit I installed on a 6.6l Duramax. It was shipped with 1/2 hose. Now I'm thinking that 1/2 might be on the overkill side for our smaller engine, but a good balance between flow/loss and compact size for install.

Another thought on the thermal switch to control the fan.......Why not install it on the return side? This was IF the cooler can reduce the temps a bit without the fan, it would only turn on when seeing a bigger load. If @Samfamaz could give us a temp reading on the return, we could properly select a temp switch?
 

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I was looking around the shop this morning and found left over hose from an Amsoil remote filter/bypass kit I installed on a 6.6l Duramax. It was shipped with 1/2 hose. Now I'm thinking that 1/2 might be on the overkill side for our smaller engine, but a good balance between flow/loss and compact size for install.

Another thought on the thermal switch to control the fan.......Why not install it on the return side? This was IF the cooler can reduce the temps a bit without the fan, it would only turn on when seeing a bigger load. If @Samfamaz could give us a temp reading on the return, we could properly select a temp switch?
I'm installing an adjustable sensor. I had planned on putting it in the return line since it maxes out at 220*. That is if I could figure out which is which. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CKGY51J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
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pmpmstrb

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Perfect except its an electric component that has questionable reliability. At least if it fails, it wont ever cause a situation where the failure is worse than stock configuration with the cooler installed.
I went with it because I had a hard time finding a sensor with the temp I was looking for. If you know of a sensor that's in the 220* range then I'm all ears. I didn't want it to be adjustable. Everything I was finding was 180* or lower for non adjustable and everything I've seen says that our oil needs to be in the 220 range.
 
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I went with it because I had a hard time finding a sensor with the temp I was looking for. If you know of a sensor that's in the 220* range then I'm all ears. I didn't want it to be adjustable. Everything I was finding was 180* or lower for non adjustable and everything I've seen says that our oil needs to be in the 220 range.
I got nothing! Seeing the same as you.......

I was trying to get an estimate of what the actual returned oil temp vs what is in the pan? The oil being pulled from the pan being read could be 210-220, but returned after the cooler at a much lower temp? Wonder which passage the OE temp sensor is in? Supply or return?

Maybe if it was located on the return side 180-200° would be fine?

When geeking out on trans temp gauges, I liked to install a before and after tempo sensor with a switch so I knew the delta.
 

pmpmstrb

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I got nothing! Seeing the same as you.......

I was trying to get an estimate of what the actual returned oil temp vs what is in the pan? The oil being pulled from the pan being read could be 210-220, but returned after the cooler at a much lower temp? Wonder which passage the OE temp sensor is in? Supply or return?

Maybe if it was located on the return side 180-200° would be fine?

When geeking out on trans temp gauges, I liked to install a before and after tempo sensor with a switch so I knew the delta.
Under normal driving I'm seeing oil temp around 220. Towing flat in the AZ heat i was seeing 235ish. Towing up grade I was 250+ and derating. So I'm hoping that a 220 sensor (I really wanted a 230 to keep from short cycling the fan) on the return side will kick the fan on early enough to cut off the temps getting high. Plus with bypassing the coolant at the heat exchanger and making the radiator solely responsible for coolant will keep from going over 250. Samfamaz said he was seeing about a 10* drop and that's without bypassing the coolant.
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