End link is smoked

[j.o.y.ride]

Why spend 450 when you can step up to an rpm steering 2.5 ton solid 2" aluminum tie rod and spend even more. I'm dying to have an excuse to swap out my tie rod and drag link for a pair

sold!

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[ShadowsPapa]

The correct way to hammer out a tappered fitting like the tie rod end is to loosen the nut most of the way but leave a few threads holding the nut. Then take a hammer and wack the side of the steering knuckle where the tie rod taper goes though. imagine wacking the outside of a donut if you had a stick through the middle. The shock of the hammer blow vibrates things enough to get the tappered bond to break loose and the tapper to drop out. The nut keeps the tie rod from dropping to the ground.

I have also seen these jeep tie rod end just drop out of the knuckle when the nut is undone.

Yeah, I've never used or needed a "pickle
This is just a bigger version of the typical tie rod end. It's a ball joint with a tapered post that goes into the steering knuckle. rharr has said the best and most reliable method for breaking the bond in that tapered hole to tapered post. Smack the forward end of the knuckle where the tie rod end post goes through. Good solid smacks with a large hammer, no hesitation Should drop right out.

I take it rharr has done a few.......

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Here, a little visual for you. 4:54 mark

Yeah… and parts are always that clean. Is that you in the video? Because that video was scripted, and walked through first. Later in the video he had to pickle the drag link off the pitman arm.

After owning and working a dozen Jeeps, as well as a lot of other makes, I’ve never seen one drop off like that when properly installed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's a simple tapered joint. Insert, put on the nut, torque the nut.
Can't mess it up unless you don't torque the nut.
It's literally that simple. Nothing to properly install. Goes one way.

No different than separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle on any car or IFS truck. Similar size tapered stud.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I mean. Jeep isn't gonna warranty this with a lift and 35s. If it's really $200 for the end I'll just upgrade the whole tie rod.

 

[bleda2002]

I mean. Jeep isn't gonna warranty this with a lift and 35s. If it's really $200 for the end I'll just upgrade the whole tie rod.

Say it with me...2" aluminum tie rod!

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Say it with me...2" aluminum tie rod!

It'll happen. It's not much more than the Metal cloak and the MC was a bit too bling for me anyways, and is sold out for 6 weeks as they get new material they said. The RPM looks better and should be better and is only a week out. Just waiting on them bout a stabilizer question.

 

[Imbuere]

Say it with me...2" aluminum tie rod!

Do you think that tierod would work on a JL with 0-1" lift? Their website says up to 4" lift... but I don't know if that means zero.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Do you think that tierod would work on a JL with 0-1" lift? Their website says up to 4" lift... but I don't know if that means zero.

Yes that would mean stock too

 

[kevman65]

Yeah… and parts are always that clean. Is that you in the video? Because that video was scripted, and walked through first. Later in the video he had to pickle the drag link off the pitman arm.

After owning and working a dozen Jeeps, as well as a lot of other makes, I’ve never seen one drop off like that when properly installed.

No, it's not me. Yes it's scripted, it's one of many how-to videos.

As I said previously, I have replaced the tie rod bar, along with track bar and drag link.

I loosened both nuts on the tie rod bar and they both dropped until resting on nuts. Removed nuts and bar fell out into my hand.

Drag link bar I had to use a pickle to get out of the pitman arm. But this thread isn't about the drag link or pitman, it's about the tie rod bar. You stated you NEED a hammer and/or a pickle. I state that isn't true, I show you visual proof of it, you want to bring up an entirely different part to try and justify your stance.

Go ahead and beat on a cast aluminum part with a hammer. If and when you crack part of the knuckle, remember according to you it HAS to be hit with a hammer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah… and parts are always that clean. Is that you in the video? Because that video was scripted, and walked through first. Later in the video he had to pickle the drag link off the pitman arm.

After owning and working a dozen Jeeps, as well as a lot of other makes, I’ve never seen one drop off like that when properly installed.

I haven't either. Not in the hundreds of front suspensions and steering systems I've rebuilt over the decades.
Normally I smack the edge of the piece with the hole - and one or two whacks (not 100 pound hammers swung at 150 miles per hour, geesh) or I've been able to use a hammer on the top of the stud (nut run up flush on the stud), and then there's a trick tool a neighbor who builds street rods and puts on the fancy rack and pinion steering, new brake systems, etc. on customer cars showed me. It's a clever tool, I need to find the link again. He's swore by it for years,
I've never used a fork. Mustang II, 1 ton and bigger trucks, whatever.

It's a tapered joint. The proper torque pulls the tapered stud into a tapered hole - and the hole is stretched just a bit and grabs the tapered stud.
It's the same system that was used to joint the axle hubs to drive axles on cars for decades - although those are splined, it's the taper that does much of the work in that case - handling 400 hp (and sometimes more) and the same system that joins a ships propeller to the shaft (a boat guy showed me that) - that tapered joint is strong as hell - and the nut, once torqued to pull the stud into the hole, isn't doing the work any more - other than hold it in place so shock and vibration can't cause it to come loose or out.
I've had to use a 20 ton press to get the hubs off the tapered axles before - that taper has that much grip.

 

[Blade1668]

? I despise the pickle fork myself. I'm of the wack it on side(s) with a hammer. I learned that a long time ago from my uncle working on a winch truck and last choice wack on end with nut at top. Pops them out in most cases at high speed unless net is still on a few threads.

 

[Troybilt]

Why spend 450 when you can step up to an rpm steering 2.5 ton solid 2" aluminum tie rod and spend even more. I'm dying to have an excuse to swap out my tie rod and drag link for a pair

sold!

It'll happen. It's not much more than the Metal cloak and the MC was a bit too bling for me anyways, and is sold out for 6 weeks as they get new material they said. The RPM looks better and should be better and is only a week out. Just waiting on them bout a stabilizer question.

I will be getting the RPM kit also. American sourced aluminum and beefy as hell.

 

[Renegade]

? I despise the pickle fork myself. I'm of the wack it on side(s) with a hammer. I learned that a long time ago from my uncle working on a winch truck and last choice wack on end with nut at top. Pops them out in most cases at high speed unless net is still on a few threads.

You can also use a tie rod end puller, but the one I have doesn’t fit the new larger tie rod ends. People who are new to Jeeps really don’t realize how far they have come…

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I will be getting the RPM kit also. American sourced aluminum and beefy as hell.

Owner called me back to explain which bracket I needed. Super nice guy.

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