Error code P0341 Camshaft position sensor ’A’ circuit range bank1 or single sensor

[Ducknpunkn]

It has been covered before whiring just needs shielded from heat. And FYI
The gas ones have the camshaft sensors go clear out . Mine did . But the diesels are experiencing this in early mileage and several ha e figured it out . Its one of 2 things either twisted up wiring or unshielded wiring sitting too close to the egr heater area. Once the wiring to the sensor is compromised then it doesn't send signal then you end up in limp mode . Limp node occurs because of lack of input. Then the computer doesn't know how to mix the fuel etc. The very same thing occurs in the gas motors . This is a very o early simplified explanation so dont hammer me on it. But I have owned 2 Ram diesels previously so I am quasi familiar with diesels.

Ive been doing my digging and Im curious why Stellantis hasn't figured this out, but after meeting one of their pompous ass engineers a couple times, im not surprised. That would also mean a recall to change the complete harness to reroute and insulate from heat and electromagnetic interference. Im not unaware of the mechanical/electrical working of a car, I told the engineer my start stop quit working the moment they cut my cam sensor harness and soldered in a new one that somehow the signal from it had to be off enough to prevent the S/S from working. 5 repairs and several more months of them having it later and BEHOLD, the sensor had a high resistance to it. Its still not resolved and quite frankly im tired of being in a position of 'its under warranty and I cant touch it or they'll blame me for the problem then it is my problem' and 'we also have no clue what we are doing'. I need a vehicle. I work in an ER, and am a CPR instructor and Im just tired of having to beg, borrow, and rent a second vehicle (which a lot of the time is also not a truck or utility vehicle and doesnt fit several bags of manikins) and still pay for this pile of . I cant trade it cuz im being offered 10k+ less than what I owe. My options are repossession or lemon law

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[1945gpw]

Decided to reroute and cover the cam and alternator wiring harness before having problems to hopefully keep mine trouble free.
ordered a few different sizes of this heat wrap. Pretty good stuff !
https://a.co/d/h6euDmC

will update with more photos after I finish but planning on re taping and wrapping the larger wiring harness with the heat shield as well.

cam sensor harness

Alternator

 

[Marc Petty]

Not excusing anything the dealership may or may not have disclosed if they knew any of this beforehand, but there is naivety on your part for thinking the dealership had your best interest at hand and would be truthful in any dealings. They want to sell vehicles and are not going to paint anything they sell in a negative light.

As to their supposed first time seeing this, that is Service Advisory 101 training to say that even if the Service Department waiting area is full of people waiting for the same issue.

At the end of the day, you bought a used vehicle and unless any factory warranty was remaining and/or a extended warranty was sold with it, you bought "AS IS". You can piss up a rope with lawyers all you want but that is going to be a slough with low chance of positive outcome.

Good Luck.

Thank you for the input. I agree to some extent that dealerships want to sell vehicles and many have a twisted reality of what is honest or legal to do to get a sale. I agree wholeheartedly with you that there are too many loopholes to get real success with an attorney to try and get a buyback or similar option unless there is a class action suit. In the meantime we all have a vehicle that does not work properly. So we are SOL. I purchased with 10k miles on the truck and 1.5 years left on the warranty. So with that said I feel I do have some rights. I am happy to leave the Gladiator at the dealership waiting for a fix if I can get a similar vehicle in return to use in the meantime. This is what I will pursue with an attorney if I am refused a vehicle to use while a fix is completed.

If they don't have a solution or know of a solution and are still trying to figure it out, then a law suit isn't going to fly. You would need to prove they know what the fix is and haven't taken care of it.

You also knew of the diesel issues but still made that choice- jumping in with full knowledge of the issues.

I agree that the lawsuit is a long battle. That’s the reason for the question. Thanks for the feedback. However I am saying more than that meaning I have a vehicle that does not function properly or safely on the road. The manufacturer is obligated to cover the issue under warranty or either buy it back or refund the money. Yes I do believe they need time to come up with a fix but as long as it’s documented that a fix has not been solved an attorney could help with a buyback and get a full refund. Most likely get attorney fees paid also.
By the way I never heard of the P3047 sensor issue until after I had a check engine light. So did not jump in with any knowledge. Heck the dealer that sold it to me said the same thing after I contacted them. They have never heard of it.

 

[Marc Petty]

Well, I feel your pain in this, mine threw the code in the first 100 miles and then cleared itself, and it will still toss it out every now and then. It always does it at start up and I know it is going to come up because it feels like a misfire during cranking. I love the truck anyway and have no plans of getting rid of it.

My solution for it is an iDash. When the code pops up I shut the engine off and put it in run mode and clear the code and start it up and go about my day. You should get something to monitor the engine anyway, the dash doesn’t really cover all the things you need to monitor.

There are too many folks on here who have pushed the dealer to do something to fix it and clearly they don’t have a sure fix for it. At least one person on here had a dealer do a lot of mods to the wire harness and not fix the problem, they took it to another dealer who refused to work on it because of the wiring mess.

If your truck doesn’t go into limp mode I would leave it alone until there is a sure fix, or if it really bothers you get rid of it. We shouldn’t have to be put in this situation but here we are. I love my truck and will continue to deal with it as I do now.

my installed iDash

Gregj

Thanks Greg. Mine acts the exact same way after it’s been running and then parked for a while and then at start up the code comes on. Sometimes it feels like a misfire. It will usually clear itself after 10 miles or similar or the next day at start up the CEL is cleared. I am willing to wait for a while to see if a fix is found. I find it hard to believe that they cannot find a way to shield the sensor from the heat. I have a Willys version. I was wondering if the hood had vents in it if it would stay cool enough to solve the issue. I know…wishful thinking but honestly a manufacturer can’t figure out how to shield the sensor or the wires??? Dumbfounded. By the way all those following the thread the Ram version of this engine has never had this problem. They are 90% the same engine. The Jeep version is just tuned down and in a smaller space. I had a 2018 Ram eco diesel for 5 years and 120k with no engine issues.

 

[Marc Petty]

Thanks Greg. Mine acts the exact same way after it’s been running and then parked for a while and then at start up the code comes on. Sometimes it feels like a misfire. It will usually clear itself after 10 miles or similar or the next day at start up the CEL is cleared. I am willing to wait for a while to see if a fix is found. I find it hard to believe that they cannot find a way to shield the sensor from the heat. I have a Willys version. I was wondering if the hood had vents in it if it would stay cool enough to solve the issue. I know…wishful thinking but honestly a manufacturer can’t figure out how to shield the sensor or the wires??? Dumbfounded. By the way all those following the thread the Ram version of this engine has never had this problem. They are 90% the same engine. The Jeep version is just tuned down and in a smaller space. I had a 2018 Ram eco diesel for 5 years and 120k with no engine issues.

Also can you explain just a little more how you use the Idash. Are you just monitoring heat with it in this case? You have something else to clear the CEL code.

 

[Marc Petty]

Ive been doing my digging and Im curious why Stellantis hasn't figured this out, but after meeting one of their pompous ass engineers a couple times, im not surprised. That would also mean a recall to change the complete harness to reroute and insulate from heat and electromagnetic interference. Im not unaware of the mechanical/electrical working of a car, I told the engineer my start stop quit working the moment they cut my cam sensor harness and soldered in a new one that somehow the signal from it had to be off enough to prevent the S/S from working. 5 repairs and several more months of them having it later and BEHOLD, the sensor had a high resistance to it. Its still not resolved and quite frankly im tired of being in a position of 'its under warranty and I cant touch it or they'll blame me for the problem then it is my problem' and 'we also have no clue what we are doing'. I need a vehicle. I work in an ER, and am a CPR instructor and Im just tired of having to beg, borrow, and rent a second vehicle (which a lot of the time is also not a truck or utility vehicle and doesnt fit several bags of manikins) and still pay for this pile of . I cant trade it cuz im being offered 10k+ less than what I owe. My options are repossession or lemon law

Ive been doing my digging and Im curious why Stellantis hasn't figured this out, but after meeting one of their pompous ass engineers a couple times, im not surprised. That would also mean a recall to change the complete harness to reroute and insulate from heat and electromagnetic interference. Im not unaware of the mechanical/electrical working of a car, I told the engineer my start stop quit working the moment they cut my cam sensor harness and soldered in a new one that somehow the signal from it had to be off enough to prevent the S/S from working. 5 repairs and several more months of them having it later and BEHOLD, the sensor had a high resistance to it. Its still not resolved and quite frankly im tired of being in a position of 'its under warranty and I cant touch it or they'll blame me for the problem then it is my problem' and 'we also have no clue what we are doing'. I need a vehicle. I work in an ER, and am a CPR instructor and Im just tired of having to beg, borrow, and rent a second vehicle (which a lot of the time is also not a truck or utility vehicle and doesnt fit several bags of manikins) and still pay for this pile of . I cant trade it cuz im being offered 10k+ less than what I owe. My options are repossession or lemon law

Chiming in here to share some similarities. I bought mine with 10k miles on it. 1.5 years left on the warranty. Dealer said it was stock and in perfect working condition. I asked for a car fax. No mention of any needed work on the car fax except for oil changes etc and a steering adjustment. Dealer also ran the VIN to prove to me there were no recalls. In fact they said it had never had a recall come up on that VIN. I was under the impression that all ECO Diesels in 2023 had a recall of the EGR. Maybe I’m wrong??? Anyway if this vehicle was in perfect condition they failed to tell me the start stop did not work. It has not worked since I got the truck 3 weeks ago. So I’m smelling a real cover up. If your start stop does not work after wiring was worked on then it makes pretty good reason that mine wiring harness had also been worked on with no success and the previous owner must have either traded it in or dealer bought it back?? Bottom line the dealer told me no issues with the vehicle. How to prove this was a cover up? Not sure. But I do have the previous owners name and address. If he will be honest and let me know his history with the truck then I have a real case of a dealer or manufacturer that has frauded me into purchasing a vehicle that does not really work and was not in working condition. I’m going to reach out to the previous owner. Also try to understand why work on the vehicle was not reported or recorded for the consumer to see before purchasing. If a dealer does work on the vehicle is it a law that they have to record it as history on the vehicle?

 

[Marc Petty]

Decided to reroute and cover the cam and alternator wiring harness before having problems to hopefully keep mine trouble free.
ordered a few different sizes of this heat wrap. Pretty good stuff !
https://a.co/d/h6euDmC

will update with more photos after I finish but planning on re taping and wrapping the larger wiring harness with the heat shield as well.

cam sensor harness

Alternator

I would love to learn more about what you’re doing and any updates positive or negative. Please send more pics so I can see more about the locations and process you are doing. Thank you for sharing

 

[Rusty PW]

Chiming in here to share some similarities. I bought mine with 10k miles on it. 1.5 years left on the warranty. Dealer said it was stock and in perfect working condition. I asked for a car fax. No mention of any needed work on the car fax except for oil changes etc and a steering adjustment. Dealer also ran the VIN to prove to me there were no recalls. In fact they said it had never had a recall come up on that VIN. I was under the impression that all ECO Diesels in 2023 had a recall of the EGR. Maybe I’m wrong??? Anyway if this vehicle was in perfect condition they failed to tell me the start stop did not work. It has not worked since I got the truck 3 weeks ago. So I’m smelling a real cover up. If your start stop does not work after wiring was worked on then it makes pretty good reason that mine wiring harness had also been worked on with no success and the previous owner must have either traded it in or dealer bought it back?? Bottom line the dealer told me no issues with the vehicle. How to prove this was a cover up? Not sure. But I do have the previous owners name and address. If he will be honest and let me know his history with the truck then I have a real case of a dealer or manufacturer that has frauded me into purchasing a vehicle that does not really work and was not in working condition. I’m going to reach out to the previous owner. Also try to understand why work on the vehicle was not reported or recorded for the consumer to see before purchasing. If a dealer does work on the vehicle is it a law that they have to record it as history on the vehicle?

My start/stop hasn't worked for a long time. Keeps saying battery charging. And I have no problems with the batteries. It might be something else for your start/stop to not work. There is a list of things it has to see for it to work.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There is a list of things it has to see for it to work.

Yes, and codes involved with proper operation of the engine or transmission as well as a list of almost 3 dozen other things.

If your start stop does not work after wiring was worked on then it makes pretty good reason that mine wiring harness had also been worked on with no success and the previous owner must have either traded it in or dealer bought it back?? Bottom line the dealer told me no issues with the vehicle. How to prove this was a cover up? Not sure.

Sorry, start/stop not working is likely nothing at all to do with that wiring harness, and proves or indicates ZIP, nothing at all.
In fact, there's nothing to indicate to a dealer that it's not working - you are reading too much into things or hoping for some tidbit to support your contention that it was faulty from the first day and the dealer knew it. Sorry, doesn't work that way.
In fact, unless you pay attention and look for reasons, start/stop not working may not even catch anyone's attention. They drive these around the lot, or even on a short road trip - and very unlikely for that ESS to be ready to work on a test drive. Sometimes it takes a while, especially if it has sat a while.
I'd bet it's not a "cover-up" no matter how badly you want it to be.
Shit happens, and a vehicle can literally work perfectly when parked, then a day later have issues - with little to NO warning.
Stop trying to make connections with what others experienced.
There are so very many reasons for ESS to not work.

You have nothing indicating any wiring was ever worked on - not a single thing.
You have nothing indicating anyone knew of any issues - nothing at all.
Carfax is a joke at times anyway - I wish people would stop relying that as if it's a god or something. No one is forced to enter things - it's not a law or anything. Some shops don't. Independent shops often don't spend the time or effort.
It's a tool - but one should never stop there. Even if that stupid fox says the thing has been in a wreck - it can be WRONG. Could be a part replaced for many reasons, or the person doing the work worded things very poorly.

 

[Gregj]

Also can you explain just a little more how you use the Idash. Are you just monitoring heat with it in this case? You have something else to clear the CEL code.

The Banks iDash plugs into the OBD port and reads the info on the canbus system, there are about 130 some parameters it can read and display. It can display up to 8 different values per screen and has 5 screens you can set up any way you like. It can also display user defined alerts and stores minimum and maximum values. It also can read and clear codes.

I currently have mine set up to monitor RPM, EGT, coolant temp, oil temp, trans temp, boost, charge air inlet temp and charge air outlet temp.

It can also monitor soot load and regen status. Here is a list of the things it can display.

iDash PIDS
iDash Pro

Sort of expensive but well worth it in my opinion.
Gregj

 

[Gregj]

Oh, and my Stop/Start works, but you have to turn off the AC and who wants to turn off the AC when it’s 100 degrees + ???
Gregj

 

[Marc Petty]

Yes, and codes involved with proper operation of the engine or transmission as well as a list of almost 3 dozen other things.



Sorry, start/stop not working is likely nothing at all to do with that wiring harness, and proves or indicates ZIP, nothing at all.
In fact, there's nothing to indicate to a dealer that it's not working - you are reading too much into things or hoping for some tidbit to support your contention that it was faulty from the first day and the dealer knew it. Sorry, doesn't work that way.
In fact, unless you pay attention and look for reasons, start/stop not working may not even catch anyone's attention. They drive these around the lot, or even on a short road trip - and very unlikely for that ESS to be ready to work on a test drive. Sometimes it takes a while, especially if it has sat a while.
I'd bet it's not a "cover-up" no matter how badly you want it to be.
Shit happens, and a vehicle can literally work perfectly when parked, then a day later have issues - with little to NO warning.
Stop trying to make connections with what others experienced.
There are so very many reasons for ESS to not work.

You have nothing indicating any wiring was ever worked on - not a single thing.
You have nothing indicating anyone knew of any issues - nothing at all.
Carfax is a joke at times anyway - I wish people would stop relying that as if it's a god or something. No one is forced to enter things - it's not a law or anything. Some shops don't. Independent shops often don't spend the time or effort.
It's a tool - but one should never stop there. Even if that stupid fox says the thing has been in a wreck - it can be WRONG. Could be a part replaced for many reasons, or the person doing the work worded things very poorly.

You have a unique way of seeing things. I will take it to the dealer and add this stop stop issue to the PO347 issue along with the seat belt warning chime that has now quit working and see if they tell me it’s because of a low battery. That’s what the dealer told me the first time the Cam Shaft Sensor issue came up. But the battery reads a full charge. So maybe there is an issue with the heat of the engine causing everything to malfunction or give false readings. Or maybe the dealer or Jeep doesn’t really care and is making things up. Do you work for Stellantis?

 

[Marc Petty]

The Banks iDash plugs into the OBD port and reads the info on the canbus system, there are about 130 some parameters it can read and display. It can display up to 8 different values per screen and has 5 screens you can set up any way you like. It can also display user defined alerts and stores minimum and maximum values. It also can read and clear codes.

I currently have mine set up to monitor RPM, EGT, coolant temp, oil temp, trans temp, boost, charge air inlet temp and charge air outlet temp.

It can also monitor soot load and regen status. Here is a list of the things it can display.

iDash PIDS
iDash Pro

Sort of expensive but well worth it in my opinion.
Gregj

Thank you for taking the time to explain more. Very good information.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do you work for Stellantis?

No, just a former automotive guy who has been around.

You have a unique way of seeing things.

That's what my neuropsychologist and other who have had me in classes have told me............ I see patterns, solve puzzles and rely a lot on perceptual reasoning.
I'm wired very differently.

 

[1945gpw]

Finished up this evening. Ended up using 1/4, 3/8 and 1 inch diameter heat shielding to do the wiring harnesses shown.

also wrapped the wiring with high temp fabric tape first since there where several areas of exposed wiring under the plastic cover. Was a tight fit to get the plastic cap back on but went together pretty smooth.

the cam sensor wiring are some of the smallest gauge wires in the harness and the insulation isn’t very durable on these so I could see them possibly rubbing through on tight corners mixed with the heat and vibration?
I checked all the wiring in the areas Im working on and didn’t see any signs of chafing but again can see why the service bulletin says to replace with larger gauge wire and to reroute it.

Again to clarify I didn’t have any check engine lights for the cam sensor. I just wanted to be proactive on the wiring and try to prevent mine from getting the issue.

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