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FAD Delete

hightide

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With the catastrophic failures is it breaking the tube or is the tube pulling out of the FAD? If it's pulling out, welding around it might be a solution like what is commonly done on the ford 8.8 to keep it's tubes from spinning
 

foo.c

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The problem with welding on an axle tube is it is tricky to keep it square.
 

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rharr

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With the catastrophic failures is it breaking the tube or is the tube pulling out of the FAD? If it's pulling out, welding around it might be a solution like what is commonly done on the ford 8.8 to keep it's tubes from spinning
It's the FAD casting, it's the weak link in the assembly. It's about 1/4" thick and has bolt holes though it to further weaken it. I would bet, if you looked at the broken parts from the example above the crack would run through a bolt hole.

My friend had a snapped D44 HD ruby front axle at the shop from a glad that hit a concrete divider on the passenger side at 65 mph. The axle tubes, dif housing and ball joint mounts were all fine. The FAD cracked in half along a bolt line and the axle shaft mating ends at the FAD were marred up from rapid separation. Even the aluminum knuckle didn't look to bad and had a 50/50 shot of being fine.

IMO the FAD housing is the weak part, maybe a truss over FAD or the FAD internal assembly being removed and a 3/8" metal plate bolted over the FAD opening may added strength.

I may try to screw with the busted axle and cut the housing off and make a 10 mm thick steel sleeve to rejoin the 2 tubes together.
 

rharr

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yes, lots of FAD housings crack when pushed hard. Plenty of youtube videos.
 

citadelfox

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I know it's an old thread, but anyone try the 392 FAD plate delete? The block off plate has a fixed fork to keep the collar engaged. It's an OEM 392 part that fits the Dana axel on the rubicon. Like 80 bucks plus a new gasket and bolts (another 36 bucks). Seems like this and Taser shut off are the most cost effective solution. Then yeet the actuator and zip tie the plug out of the way.
 

Zachanadandy

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I know it's an old thread, but anyone try the 392 FAD plate delete? The block off plate has a fixed fork to keep the collar engaged. It's an OEM 392 part that fits the Dana axel on the rubicon. Like 80 bucks plus a new gasket and bolts (another 36 bucks). Seems like this and Taser shut off are the most cost effective solution. Then yeet the actuator and zip tie the plug out of the way.
Best solution for what? The housing breaks, not the shafts or collar. The weak points are still there, but you have to pay extra attention to the balance between your pinion angle and caster as your front driveshaft now spins in 2wd at speed. Nothing gained and there are drawbacks. Keep the fad functioning and you can run 6.5⁰ of caster as the pinion angle won't be bad enough to cause issues at lower speeds when you actually need 4wd.
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